This is a guide for making the service interval reset tool that plugs under the passenger seat and allows Dealer Mode. The Suzuki OEM part's number is 09930-83130 (Dealer mode switch). This article builds on the efforts of the contributors in 2020 1050 Service Interval Reset (special thanks to @Benthiesing, @Skinner, @Dave MP, @Idefix, @moglink, @CGUENTHER, @V-Tom, and everyone else I didn't mention).
Why am I creating this thread?
I went in for my 1000 km service at the local dealership, and the mechanic didn't know how to reset the wrench icon and the service reminder, and didn't have the tool. So naturally he looked it up on the internet, and found the paperclip method, but inserted in the wrong 2 holes (a common mistake, also made by some of the contributors to the original thread above), and blew the 10 A ignition fuse (a common outcome).
So this thread is to summarize the reset procedure, and show the definite and correct holes to use. Also to save you $$!
Service interval reset procedure:
1. Plug the tool (or insert an appropriate paperclip/metal) into the diag port under the passenger seat
2. Turn on the ignition
3. Code C00 should appear on the bottom of the LCD (if "---" appears instead, you've blown a fuse)
4. Go into Menu > Service > Reset > Yes
5. Do it again in 12k km / 7500 mi / 1 year!
Which holes/leads should be connected?
The outer two opposite the single fin/spine. The small square holes are for the corresponding pins in the tool, [EDIT by V-Tom] do NOT use the larger rectangular opening as you could touch a neighboring lead and burn a fuse.
![Image]()
Tools and parts needed:
Required:
1. Small nose pliers (and preferably wire stripper and wire cutter)
2. Terminal DJ7069Y-0.6-11 (can be found on AliExpress, thanks to @Vince82 & @CGUENTHER for the find) (get more than a single terminal plug, it takes practice to get it right)
3. 26 AWG cable (24 AWG might be fine, but anything bigger won't fit)
EDIT & Important info: Since publishing this guide I've learned of crimp pliers, as these connectors are made to be crimped. Accordingly, you will need:
4. Crimp pliers (quality ones that fit 24-26 AWG)
![Image]()
Optional:
4. Soldering iron, flux, and solder (if you don't have crimp pliers, for a more secure attachment, also for attaching the switch)
5. On/off switch (if you like to keep it plugged-in under the seat)
6. Heat shrink (for a cleaner look)
7. Third hand tool (frees both your hands if soldering)
How-To:
Important Edit: Using crimp pliers the process is simpler and shorter than outlined below. At the time I didn't have one.
1. Start by taking a look at the parts of the terminal plug. They don't come with instructions and it can take a few minutes to understand what goes where.
The metal leads go into the narrow back-end (as shown below), and the black plastic piece goes into the wide-end to secure the pins in the grooves. I haven't figured out how to use the rubber seals (they make the overall diameter of the lead & wire too large and won't fit, or they slide off)
![Image]()
2. Measure a length of wire to your preference (about 15 cm is good, the final length is going to be half of that). Strip both ends.
![Image]()
3. Insert the exposed ends into the leads (2 leads, one on each end), and secure it (solder or carefully press it). I recommend securing the plastic jacket into the lead itself to prevent snapping later with use.
![Image]()
4. Insert the connected leads into the plug in the 2 outer holes opposite the single fin, with the sloped part of the lead down. This is the most difficult and sensitive step. Use the small pliers to firmly (but gently) shove the leads down (they don't just slide in), once you've got them in enough you can grasp them from the opposite end and pull. Pull them till the wide part of the lead is sitting in its groove (you can't see it), but not so much that it's protruding into the smaller groove for the pin.
![Image]()
![Image]()
5. After the pins are sitting correctly in their grooves and pulled all the way, secure them with the black plastic piece, taking care to insert the plastic over the pins securing them in their respective grooves. Once you click it in, there's no taking it off, and it's difficult to pull the leads out.
![Image]()
![Image]()
6. After you've inserted the second lead you're done!
![Image]()
... continued in the next post
Why am I creating this thread?
I went in for my 1000 km service at the local dealership, and the mechanic didn't know how to reset the wrench icon and the service reminder, and didn't have the tool. So naturally he looked it up on the internet, and found the paperclip method, but inserted in the wrong 2 holes (a common mistake, also made by some of the contributors to the original thread above), and blew the 10 A ignition fuse (a common outcome).
So this thread is to summarize the reset procedure, and show the definite and correct holes to use. Also to save you $$!
Service interval reset procedure:
1. Plug the tool (or insert an appropriate paperclip/metal) into the diag port under the passenger seat
2. Turn on the ignition
3. Code C00 should appear on the bottom of the LCD (if "---" appears instead, you've blown a fuse)
4. Go into Menu > Service > Reset > Yes
5. Do it again in 12k km / 7500 mi / 1 year!
Which holes/leads should be connected?
The outer two opposite the single fin/spine. The small square holes are for the corresponding pins in the tool, [EDIT by V-Tom] do NOT use the larger rectangular opening as you could touch a neighboring lead and burn a fuse.
Tools and parts needed:
Required:
1. Small nose pliers (and preferably wire stripper and wire cutter)
2. Terminal DJ7069Y-0.6-11 (can be found on AliExpress, thanks to @Vince82 & @CGUENTHER for the find) (get more than a single terminal plug, it takes practice to get it right)
3. 26 AWG cable (24 AWG might be fine, but anything bigger won't fit)
EDIT & Important info: Since publishing this guide I've learned of crimp pliers, as these connectors are made to be crimped. Accordingly, you will need:
4. Crimp pliers (quality ones that fit 24-26 AWG)
Optional:
4. Soldering iron, flux, and solder (if you don't have crimp pliers, for a more secure attachment, also for attaching the switch)
5. On/off switch (if you like to keep it plugged-in under the seat)
6. Heat shrink (for a cleaner look)
7. Third hand tool (frees both your hands if soldering)
How-To:
Important Edit: Using crimp pliers the process is simpler and shorter than outlined below. At the time I didn't have one.
1. Start by taking a look at the parts of the terminal plug. They don't come with instructions and it can take a few minutes to understand what goes where.
The metal leads go into the narrow back-end (as shown below), and the black plastic piece goes into the wide-end to secure the pins in the grooves. I haven't figured out how to use the rubber seals (they make the overall diameter of the lead & wire too large and won't fit, or they slide off)
2. Measure a length of wire to your preference (about 15 cm is good, the final length is going to be half of that). Strip both ends.
3. Insert the exposed ends into the leads (2 leads, one on each end), and secure it (solder or carefully press it). I recommend securing the plastic jacket into the lead itself to prevent snapping later with use.
4. Insert the connected leads into the plug in the 2 outer holes opposite the single fin, with the sloped part of the lead down. This is the most difficult and sensitive step. Use the small pliers to firmly (but gently) shove the leads down (they don't just slide in), once you've got them in enough you can grasp them from the opposite end and pull. Pull them till the wide part of the lead is sitting in its groove (you can't see it), but not so much that it's protruding into the smaller groove for the pin.
5. After the pins are sitting correctly in their grooves and pulled all the way, secure them with the black plastic piece, taking care to insert the plastic over the pins securing them in their respective grooves. Once you click it in, there's no taking it off, and it's difficult to pull the leads out.
6. After you've inserted the second lead you're done!
... continued in the next post
