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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This is a guide for making the service interval reset tool that plugs under the passenger seat and allows Dealer Mode. The Suzuki OEM part's number is 09930-83130 (Dealer mode switch). This article builds on the efforts of the contributors in 2020 1050 Service Interval Reset (special thanks to @Benthiesing, @Skinner, @Dave MP, @Idefix, @moglink, @CGUENTHER, @V-Tom, and everyone else I didn't mention).

Why am I creating this thread?

I went in for my 1000 km service at the local dealership, and the mechanic didn't know how to reset the wrench icon and the service reminder, and didn't have the tool. So naturally he looked it up on the internet, and found the paperclip method, but inserted in the wrong 2 holes (a common mistake, also made by some of the contributors to the original thread above), and blew the 10 A ignition fuse (a common outcome).
So this thread is to summarize the reset procedure, and show the definite and correct holes to use. Also to save you $$!

Service interval reset procedure:
1.
Plug the tool (or insert an appropriate paperclip/metal) into the diag port under the passenger seat
2. Turn on the ignition
3. Code C00 should appear on the bottom of the LCD (if "---" appears instead, you've blown a fuse)
4. Go into Menu > Service > Reset > Yes
5. Do it again in 12k km / 7500 mi / 1 year!

Which holes/leads should be connected?
The outer two opposite the single fin/spine. The small square holes are for the corresponding pins in the tool, the larger rectangular openings are for the paperclip method without a tool (I prefer not using a paperclip as the plastic is a bit soft, and can get deformed, and you could touch a neighboring lead and burn a fuse).
Gesture Gadget Toy Wrist Thumb

Tools and parts needed:
Required:
1. Small nose pliers (and preferably wire stripper and wire cutter)
2. Terminal DJ7069Y-0.6-11 (can be found on AliExpress, thanks to @Vince82 & @CGUENTHER for the find) (get more than a single terminal plug, it takes practice to get it right)
3. 26 AWG cable (24 AWG might be fine, but anything bigger won't fit)
Material property Gadget Plastic Audio equipment Cable

Optional:
4. Soldering iron, flux, and solder (for a more secure attachment, and for attaching the switch)
5. On/off switch (if you like to keep it plugged-in under the seat)
6. Heat shrink (for a cleaner look)
7. Third hand tool (frees both your hands)

How-To:
1.
Start by taking a look at the parts of the terminal plug. They don't come with instructions and it can take a few minutes to understand what goes where.
The metal leads go into the narrow back-end (as shown below), and the black plastic piece goes into the wide-end to secure the pins in the grooves. I haven't figured out how to use the rubber seals (they make the overall diameter of the lead & wire too large and won't fit, or they slide off)
Font Rectangle Fashion accessory Plastic Metal

2. Measure a length of wire to your preference (about 15 cm is good, the final length is going to be half of that). Strip both ends.
Wood Automotive lighting Magenta Fashion accessory Auto part

3. Insert the exposed ends into the leads (2 leads, one on each end), and secure it (solder or carefully press it). I recommend securing the plastic jacket into the lead itself to prevent snapping later with use.
Hood Bicycle part Windscreen wiper Liquid Bicycle handlebar

4. Insert the connected leads into the plug in the 2 outer holes opposite the single fin, with the sloped part of the lead down. This is the most difficult and sensitive step. Use the small pliers to firmly (but gently) shove the leads down (they don't just slide in), once you've got them in enough you can grasp them from the opposite end and pull. Pull them till the wide part of the lead is sitting in its groove (you can't see it), but not so much that it's protruding into the smaller groove for the pin.
Hood Motor vehicle Automotive tire Toy Automotive lighting

Toy Machine gun Air gun Trigger Gun barrel

5. After the pins are sitting correctly in their grooves and pulled all the way, secure them with the black plastic piece, taking care to insert the plastic over the pins securing them in their respective grooves. Once you click it in, there's no taking it off, and it's difficult to pull the leads out.
Automotive lighting Jaw Red Material property Toy

Automotive lighting Petal Plastic Magenta Close-up

6. After you've inserted the second lead you're done!
Cable Wire Tool Electrical supply Plastic

... continued in the next post
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Optional:
6. If you want to make it switched, cut the wire midway, and if you want to use heat shrink, insert it over the wire after cutting (don't forget to insert 2 smaller heat shrink pieces over the individual wires to cover the switch leads - which I forgot!).
Solder the switch. Heat shrink the smaller pieces over each lead (not shown), then the bigger piece to hold the 2 wires together.
Fashion accessory Rectangle Event Magenta Carmine

Results:
Hood Trunk Electrical wiring Automotive exterior Bumper

Gadget Personal luxury car Motor vehicle Font Automotive design
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I don't believe so. It doesn't make sense for Suzuki to change the layout of the diagnostic port for different markets, and if you take a close look at the North American sourced OEM part (09930-83130) you can see the 2 wires coming out of the holes that I've marked (see #24 & #28, take note of the spine position to compare)
 

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I respect the effort involved with your work. That said - the rectangular holes are not for the "paper clip method" as you note, and in fact using them was the cause of the blown fuse many people reported. I would completely delete that info so as not to confuse anyone. They shouldn't be used at all.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I've written that it's not preferable and that it leads to blown fuses. However, not everyone has access to plugs, or want to make one. This tutorial, among other things, is meant to show and document the correct pins to connect (regardless of the method)
 

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I've written that it's not preferable and that it leads to blown fuses. However, not everyone has access to plugs, or want to make one. This tutorial, among other things, is meant to show and document the correct pins to connect (regardless of the method)
Can you be more specific about the possibility of blowing fuses if the rectangle holes are used?
Are you saying that each small square hole is electrically the same point as the corresponding rectangular hole? If so why would there be any possibility of blowing fuses when using the rectangular hole?
Is this socket also used for the OBD2 tool? How many wires actually come out the rear of the socket?
thanks
 

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You can also use such an adapter and one of the obd scanners for diagnostics. I tried it on my V-strom 1050. They can delete error codes if they occur, and you have already eliminated their cause. Now the codes do not disappear by themselves, they need to be deleted through a scanner or other diagnostic equipment.

Hi Pasis,
I have a OBDlink MX+ diagnostic interface that I use on my BMW R9T with an Android tablet running the Motoscan app. I was looking for a converter cable (6 pin Suzuki to 16 pin OBDii) to allow me to check codes etc. Do you know if I get such a converter cable (part no?) that I can get a suitable app for my tablet that allows me to reset Suzuki error codes and also set dealer mode to reset the service reminder or does the connection of the OBDii reader automatically set dealer mode ready to do such things?
 

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I also have this adapter, but I haven't tested it since Suzuki, so I can't say anything about it.
Dealer mod and service interval is easy to use as described in this thread in the first post.
And in order to conduct initial diagnostics, remove error codes, you need the adapter that I showed in the previous message, as well as a scanner.
I use this one for this purpose.

 

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Hi Pasis,
Thanks for the links. I can understand them now that I changed the settings to English hoho.
I noticed that the grey Suzuki connector is likely for the older models and it looks like the red Honda plug is for the newer models??
Yes, we need an adapter with a red 6-pin connector. This connector will now be used on all Japanese 20+ motorcycles.
 

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Yes, we need an adapter with a red 6-pin connector. This connector will now be used on all Japanese 20+ motorcycles.
Excellent information Pasis.
I will get the cable first and see if my standard OBDlink app will communicate to the DL1050. If not I will get the Diagnostic tool as well.(y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Can you be more specific about the possibility of blowing fuses if the rectangle holes are used?
Are you saying that each small square hole is electrically the same point as the corresponding rectangular hole? If so why would there be any possibility of blowing fuses when using the rectangular hole?
Is this socket also used for the OBD2 tool? How many wires actually come out the rear of the socket?
thanks
Hey DL1050xt
Check the original post I mentioned at the very beginning of the article, people there share their experiences with blown fuses through trial and error. It's mostly the 10A ignition fuse.
It happens because the large rectangular holes don't have separators between them inside, so a cable or paperclip can touch a neighboring lead other the intended one and cause a short circuit, if inserted too deep or at an angle.
Each pin corresponds to the rectangle below it.
This is the diagnostic port, and is also used to check and clear FI error codes (no idea why Suzuki decided to show error codes only when in dealer mode instead of just a warning light with no explanation) and reprogram the ECU
 

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Hey DL1050xt
Check the original post I mentioned at the very beginning of the article, people there share their experiences with blown fuses through trial and error. It's mostly the 10A ignition fuse.
It happens because the large rectangular holes don't have separators between them inside, so a cable or paperclip can touch a neighboring lead other the intended one and cause a short circuit, if inserted too deep or at an angle.
Each pin corresponds to the rectangle below it.
This is the diagnostic port, and is also used to check and clear FI error codes (no idea why Suzuki decided to show error codes only when in dealer mode instead of just a warning light with no explanation) and reprogram the ECU
Hi On2Wheels, makes perfect sense now, thanks.
 

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Placed an order through Ali Express and was able to successfully create working diagnostic port tools for service reset.
 
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