[Webfors]

@bosnjo the ebay "BMW Deflectors" arrived. Let me know if you have any specific thoughts on placement?

 

[bosnjo]

Here is step by step installation of BMW flaps.
I don't say that this is the way to do it. It is just the way I did it:

- On drawing #1 is the original flap (right side)

- On drawing #2 is the way to position the flap. The hole marked "A" has to sit on the top of the side insert of the fairing (dashed lines) on narrow flat area. Swing the flap towards the center of the steering so the hole "A" stays on the top of the fairing but the other hole hangs in the air, just like in drawing #2. Slide the flap forwards or backwards so it almost touches the dash black surrounding of your speedo but leave the gap between the flap and the dash 10mm.. Don't let it touch the dash. At the same time keep turning the flap towards the center of the steering or outwards until you reach perfect position, just like in the photo #1. It is important that flap goes inwards, toward the center of the steering so no air would pass between the headlight surrounding and the flap. Don't go too much inwards, no need to overdo it. Just like in the photo #1. Take your time. It is important that hole "A" sits in the middle of that narrow flat part of the side fairing insert. If you go too close to the edge, the hole you are going to drill may break the insert. The position is good if air can't pass between headlight surrounding and the flap, and the flap is still 10mm away from the dash so it wouldn't touch it. After you're happy with the position, mark the hole you're going to drill through hole "A". Then move the flap away, drill the hole for rubber grommet, install the grommet and screw the flap through hole "A". Now you still have time to do small correction swinging the flap inwards / outwards but you can't move it forwards / backwards anymore.

- On drawing #3 the flap is positioned and grommet and screw "A" are installed. Now is a time do draw the line with your marker to make a cut on the flap (dashed red line). After it's marked, remove the flap completely, cut on the line and use some fine sand paper to smoothen the edges on the cut.

- On the drawing #4 the flap is back on the bike and the screw "A" is installed

- On the drawing #5 we are marking the position for the hole "B" on the flap. Choose the place that suits you the best, as forward as possible but always on the narrow flat area on the top of the side fairing, just like for the hole "A". Remove the flap and drill the hole in the flap. Install the flap back on the bike by installing grommet and screw "A" (not very tight yet). Swing the flap to align the hole "B" with the position where you will be drilling the hole for "B" on the side fairing. With very small drill bit mark the center of the hole "B" on the fairing, through the hole "B" in the flap (that way bigger drill bit won't slide away later). Swing the flap to the side and now drill final hole for the grommet "B". Install the grommet and screw "B".

And that's it, Just one word of warning. You're not supposed to tighten the screws very much as you're screwing them into the rubber grommet. The flaps are supposed to be shaking just a little bit. This is not rigid installation.

PHOTO 1

On this photo you can see the final installation of the right flap. Note how much it's turned inwards so it overlaps the dash a little bit. That way no wind will pass


PHOTO 2

On this photo you can see it from the front.

 

[Webfors]

Fantastic instructions! Thank you. I see exactly how they mount and position now. This is a great solution.

I broke one of the deflectors with my first cut attempt, so I have another pair on order

I can't wait to test the improvement with these. In the mean time I'll continue to ride with my new large tank bag.

 

[matt650]

my experience with the givi air flow is great, it works even better than on my sold dl650xt and it's as good as the wind protection in the BMW GS 1200 or 1250 , I've ridden both for more than 1000 k and used the same helmet I'm using on the DL1000 XT, which is a Shubert E1, I have all the screens in the lowest position as I'm 1.68m tall (5.6) and the screen sits just below my sight, it works so well that i can ride to 100kph with the helmet open(flip up) withouth feeling much wind pushing the helmet back(in fact ride a lot with the helmet open because of that, since i stay in a bubble of clean air, as so that when raining, have to get up if i want to clear the raindrops from the visor faster..yes if there's strong crosswind you notice it but same you would in any bike..it's wind not buffeting. the only issue i had was the light reflecting in the screen but that was easily solved with a bit of black vinyl wrap material cheap and easy fix and it doesn't get in the field of view anyway.
A big part of buffeting is due to the helmet one choose but having said that, with the original screen and the same helmet i did notice the buffeting, not as bad as in the 2015 dl1000 though..

.

 

[bosnjo]

the only issue i had was the light reflecting in the screen but that was easily solved with a bit of black vinyl wrap material cheap and easy fix ...

You could use vinyl wrap on the inside of the screen. it would look much better. If you still have some vinyl left. give it a try and you'll see the difference.

 

[bosnjo]

I broke one of the deflectors with my first cut attempt, so I have another pair on order

I cut mine with cutting disc on dremel tool and did it very slowly. If you have dremel or you can borrow one that would be the best solution.

 

[Webfors]

Tomorrow evening I get to try out the screen with no awful glare 😁

 

[Webfors]

The PlastiDip was a bit messier and harder than I expected. Otherwise, the AF is done! I PlastiDip'd the inside of the outer screen, followed by electrical tape over that one spot on the inner screen that reflects major light. See pictures below.

The AF light reflection issues are resolved. Notice the last picture, you'll see a square edge on the OEM headlight housing. This is a major design flaw IMO. It reflects light directly out the sides of the headlight housing as a result. If the headlight assembly didn't have that square edge, I don't think we would have had reflection issues with a stock AF.

 

[matt650]

You could use vinyl wrap on the inside of the screen. it would look much better. If you still have some vinyl left. give it a try and you'll see the difference.

Obrigado, but it's on the bottom screen, so when the top screen is on you don't even notice it's there...

 

[matt650]

today it was a bit of crosswind and i started to get buffeting on the left side of the helmet, i was starting to get annoyed by it, but i thought it was strange because I've ridden with stronger crosswinds and didn't notice it before ... after i got home I changed my jacket and went to do the same road i was getting the buffeting.. guess what... problem solved! no more buffeting just the normal noise of the wind which doesn't bother me. the reason was that the shoulder protections of the grey jacket get too high when i'm in the riding position and are bigger so they get in the way of the clean air coming from the left side of the screen and mirror with the cheaper jacket(black) since the shoulder protection doesn't get as high(better fitment) there's no buffeting , so it's just another thing to take in consideration especially with crosswinds...

 

[Webfors]

today it was a bit of crosswind and i started to get buffeting on the left side of the helmet, i was starting to get annoyed by it, but i thought it was strange because I've ridden with stronger crosswinds and didn't notice it before ... after i got home I changed my jacket and went to do the same road i was getting the buffeting.. guess what... problem solved! no more buffeting just the normal noise of the wind which doesn't bother me. the reason was that the shoulder protections of the grey jacket get too high when i'm in the riding position and are bigger so they get in the way of the clean air coming from the left side of the screen and mirror with the cheaper jacket(black) since the shoulder protection doesn't get as high(better fitment) there's no buffeting , so it's just another thing to take in consideration especially with crosswinds... View attachment 277569

height, weight, and jacket model numbers please.

I completely agree that rider dimensions, which includes riding gear, is the biggest factor to solving the wind issues.

 

[matt650]

height, weight, and jacket model numbers please.

I completely agree that rider dimensions, which includes riding gear, is the biggest factor to solving the wind issues.

my height is 168 cm (5'6) , weight around 62kg at the moment, the black jacket is a RJAYS VOYAGER 5 size XS and the grey a Alpinestars ANDES PRO size S.
Today I adjusted the position of the left mirror and moved it 2cm more to the front so that it would get more equal to the right mirror, don't know if that will make any difference as the grey jacket shoulders are higher but it doesn't hurt to try... maybe during the weekend I'll be able to test it without traffic.

 

[Webfors]

Keep us posted!

I recently moved my mirrors forward also. However I over torqued the mirror mount bolt and stripped the threads clean. I have a new mount arriving today so I can test if the mirror position helps.

The majority of my bad air still comes from the lower fairing if I don't ride with my large tank bag. The deflectors coming from ebay, and documented in this thread, will solve that.

 

[Webfors]

Let's review helmets.. there seems to be a big difference between helmets, as highlighted by some members.

On this topic my cheapstake-ness probably played against me by buying an inexpensive HJC CL-MAX 2. So I pulled out my other cheap helmet, my older HCJ CL-16 and start testing the differences between the two. I noticed the older CL-16 is much quieter, and has less "resonance" in the shell. So for the first time I ride my new DL1000 with my old helmet and the experience was much better.

Now I'm curious what a really good quality helmet will do... so what are the quietest, most acoustically inert, helmets available? With a bit of browsing these seem to be highly regarded:

Shoei Neotec 2
Schuberth C3 Pro

Any other recommendations?

 

[bosnjo]

For me, so far, the quietest is "AGV K3 SV". All before this one were much noisier: Heissen, Nolan, AGV Numo, Schuberth C3 Pro and can't remember the others. The Schuberth C3 Pro was quiet but induced a lot of buffeting.
The AGV K3 SV is so good for me that I'm now on 3rd one.

 

[Webfors]

For me, so far, the quietest is "AGV K3 SV". All before this one were much noisier: Heissen, Nolan, AGV Numo, Schuberth C3 Pro and can't remember the others. The Schuberth C3 Pro was quiet but induced a lot of buffeting.
The AGV K3 SV is so good for me that I'm now on 3rd one.

That's interesting... the AGV K3 SV is considered an entry level helmet. Due to price, you really have my attention 😁

I was really hoping to get a modular helmet.. I love flipping up the helmet when driving through small towns. Is there a AGV, or any brand really, modular flip up helmet that someone could recommend? Otherwise I might have to buy the AGV K3 SV and just live with the full face style.

 

[70bones]

I'm in the market for a new helmet, and quietness is important. I like open face with sun visor and full face shield. I have a Shoei and it's awesome but doesn't have the sun visor. Interested if anyone can recommend a quiet open face helmet! I don't mind spending money on a good helmet, but, I'm also Scottish.....

 

[Webfors]

No experience with this helmut, but it looked as well built as my new HJC i90 when I was at the dealer this afternoon.

i30 SOLID - HJC HELMETS AMERICA

The i30 was created from years of design and research, bringing the best open face helmet to the market. It starts with the next generation face shield. This new Pinlock ready shield offers a wide distortion free view, and now has a reinforced frame around the lower edges to reduce wind...

www.hjchelmets.us

There are good sales going on right now.

 

[bosnjo]

In that case I would recommend AGV Numo EVO. I still have one at the shelf in my house. It is OK with wind noise considering it's modular helmet. It gave me no buffeting, ever. The only thing I didn't like about it was missing "City Position" opening of the visor. I live in area that is very hot in the summer and with high relative humidity in outumn and winter. So I need just a tiny crack opening of the visor. To achieve that AGV K3 SV has a little clip at the front that will prevent the visor from closing completely. It would leave 1-2mm opening for direct air entering if you use it. AGV Numo EVO doesn't have that and if I open it to the first click it is too much. If that doesn't bother you, you may be happy with it.
AGV Numo EVO link

As for the safety, looking at the SHARP test results for helmets, both of the AGV helmets mentioned above are way safer on impact then Schuberth C3 Pro:
AGV K3 SV test results
AGV Numo test results
Schuberth C3 Pro test results

 

[Webfors]

Being able to open the visor just a crack is critical IMO. I use that all the time and most of my helmets have that feature. Having that feature is also critical in the winter months to avoid fogging.

I purchased the HJC i90 today because of the discounts at the dealer. It is a much better riding experience than my old CL-MAX 2. Quieter, more comfortable, much wider/larger field of view, venting is greatly improved, AND much less "buffeting". I'm going to head out for another ride this evening and I'll report back. It is obvious my old helmet was a big part of the problem.

The AGV K3 SV is definitely on my list now after your recommendation.