[Rolex]

There is no way that fuse should have survived if you did that test properly.

It's best to put the negative on the starter motor then touch the positive to the bolt were the battery cable was secured.

It must at least spark but it should spin the starter too.

 

[InverterMan]

It is a rare thing , but I had my denali air horn compressor do the same thing. I took it apart and discovered that water could get into the brush holder, just enough to corrode and the brush was stuck. Cleaned everything up and re assembled and used some silicone to seal it .

 

[Marmora]

As Rolex said.Put nut back on starter stud , then jump start it.Saves arc marks on threads.
Or put pos cable on pos. stud,then touch neg cable to starter housing.

 

[InverterMan]

The very first thing should be using a ohm meter. Between the positive stud and steel stator, with all the above comments from the OP I would assume infinity. Next using a ohm meter connected, slowly turn the output shaft. It is possible to have some open connections on the commutator , but also to have a stuck brush and out of round com. Since the starter has been removed, applying power instead of using a meter is the wrong direction to go in. IMHO.

 

[InverterMan]

Being this close, taking it apart with two through bolts, is like 10 more minutes. If I totaled all the posts since the OP posted in time spent. I could have pulled the starter apart, replaced the bearings, machined the commutator and replaced the brushes and re assembled . The bike would be running now.

 

[xtian]

"If I totaled all the posts since the OP posted in time spent."

It's not the number of posts, it's the mileage. Think of where we started. Jump the diggly bop with a dooobly bo and wait for zap-zap. And now we got diagrams, and videos, and measurements--all things the internet is good for. The internet would be fantastic if I could post about my issue and you could get the bike running in 10 minutes. Hehe

Mean while I look for jumper cables (three neighbors don't have 'em), here is a video where I blow a 7.5A fuse trying it with what I got. jump on starter

UPDATE:
It's difficult to focus on work thinking about fixing my VEE. Is the stator something you see after you take the starter apart? Do I have access from the sealed starter? I don't know what the frack I'm doing here--freely admit. Here is another video of me putting the multimeter set to ohms positive on the terminal and negative on the rotor--but that's not the stator, right?

Also, the battery is at 12.89V after these zap-zaps to try to move it. Not bad.

 

[Rolex]

You won't get the starter to spin if you have a fuse in the system the load is just too big even with a good starter and it could be even bigger if the starter is bad.

You can try this, go to your kitchen and get a fork (yes the type you eat your food with) with some manipulation you should be able to replace the fuse with the fork then try your test again.

 

[xtian]

You can try this, go to your kitchen and get a fork

I have a 30A fuse. (>_<) No need to ruin my cutlery.

But I did find a pair of jumper cables and do the zap-zap three or four times.

So, it spins under power.
What's the conclusion of this test--not seized?

 

[xtian]

Other than some abnormal wear to the plastic coating on the coil near the commutator (as shown below) there is no visible damage. I don't see evidence of moisture, but plenty of carbon dust and a few pieces of that yellow plastic fell out.

On the popular OEM sites I don't see they sell the coil & commutator as a separate part. It's the whole starter for $425.
Or, I could maybe needle file off the flaked/chunked bits like a dentist scraping plaque and mix some JB Weld??

Either way, I think I should put this back into the bike and keep looking for problems, because I'm not feeling this is bunk.

• Passed the zap starter test and the starter spindle spun (see previous thread, link below).
• Battery, despite all the zaps, was still at 12.85V
• Starter Relay has continuity under power, but was out of spec in the other test (see previous thread, link below).
• Clutch Switch jump didn't resolve the issue.

Anyway, few more I could test I'm sure, but running out of places to check. Sure its going to be the last thing.

Video 0:53

Starter Motor Inspection (1I-7)

• Carbon Brush
  • Abnormal wear, cracks, smoothness in the brush holder - Nothing I would recognize, but what the heck is smoothness? These brushes look like teeth of a tobacco pipe smoker
  • Brush Length Service limit: 6.5mm - all brushes at 12mm
• Commutator
  • Discoloration, abnormal wear, or undercut (between segments) - discoloration, undercut present as far as I can get my fingernail between each segment
• Armature Coil
  • Using multi-meter measure
    • Continuity between each segment - PASS
    • No continuity between segments and shaft - PASS
• Bearing
  • Smooth rotation - PASS
• Oil Seal
  • Damage - No visible damage

NOTE: This post is preceded by another on the Starter Relay Testing and other stater related testing procedures.

 

[xtian]

Here I stuck a loupe on my phone and got a few closeups of the damage. A small crack on the edge of one. Not sure how these are made to know if that's significant

 

[okidave]

I have a 30A fuse. (>_<) No need to ruin my cutlery.

But I did find a pair of jumper cables and do the zap-zap three or four times.

So, it spins under power.
What's the conclusion of this test--not seized?

I had a similar issue with my 2012 DL650. Remedy was a new starter relay, the contacts in the relay were probably pitted/carboned up allowing voltage to pass but not enough amps to spin the starter.

 

[Rolex]

I have a 30A fuse. (>_<) No need to ruin my cutlery.

But I did find a pair of jumper cables and do the zap-zap three or four times.

So, it spins under power.
What's the conclusion of this test--not seized?

I have not looked at the numbers on a stroms starter but I doubt 30a will be anywhere near big enough.

There is no fuse between the battery and the starter motor just big cables and the solenoid. because the load is huge.

 

[Rolex]

I had a similar issue with my 2012 DL650. Remedy was a new starter relay, the contacts in the relay were probably pitted/carboned up allowing voltage to pass but not enough amps to spin the starter.

That is why I had asked him to bridge the two bolts on the starter relay, that will bypass the terminals you are talking about, according to the OP when he did that bypass the starter did not spin.

(i'm not convinced he performed that test correctly but time will tell)

 

[hillsy]

If the armature passes the continuity tests I don't see how the flaking resin would affect the performance of the starter.

You should wrap some wet and dry paper around the commutator and spin it up to clean up the contact points (800 grade will do). Then ensure there are gaps / undercuts between the segments.

 

[Rolex]

That does look like your problem to me.

It has gotten hot and could cause a dead spot where to starter would not want to start moving.

You could send it to a auto electrician and have it tested but I would shop for a used starter.

 

[Rolex]

At this point I would put everything back to normal except the starter motor, I would not put that back on the bike.

I would then test that power is going to the starter end of the power cable when the start button is pushed.

I bigger globe like a headlight globe would be good to use for this test but if you only have a multi meter it could give a indication.

Put the negative side of the globe or meter to the motor and the positive to the end of the cable where the starter should be then hit the start button with the ignition on, the bike in neutral and the clutch lever in, you should get power.

If you do get power ? this would be another conformation the starter motor is the problem.

 

[InverterMan]

"If I totaled all the posts since the OP posted in time spent."

It's not the number of posts, it's the mileage. Think of where we started. Jump the diggly bop with a dooobly bo and wait for zap-zap. And now we got diagrams, and videos, and measurements--all things the internet is good for. The internet would be fantastic if I could post about my issue and you could get the bike running in 10 minutes. Hehe

Mean while I look for jumper cables (three neighbors don't have 'em), here is a video where I blow a 7.5A fuse trying it with what I got. jump on starter

UPDATE:
It's difficult to focus on work thinking about fixing my VEE. Is the stator something you see after you take the starter apart? Do I have access from the sealed starter? I don't know what the frack I'm doing here--freely admit. Here is another video of me putting the multimeter set to ohms positive on the terminal and negative on the rotor--but that's not the stator, right?

Also, the battery is at 12.89V after these zap-zaps to try to move it. Not bad.

That video is perfect-you are rotating the armature and even your polarity is correct. You need to take the starter apart---all the tests previous have confirmed you have either open connections on the armature or stuck brushes

I am not sure what the delay is, but you need to fix the starter motor first, or replace it. My money says stuck brushes.
One thing, take the brush end apart very carefully, as to the armature, best to be also careful in removing it, the permanent magnets will be holding it back. One thing, don't drop it or hit it with a hammer, which could damage the magnets.

 

[Rolex]

Have you seen this ?

Starter Relay testing

Earlier today I posted about mixing oil. A neighbor commented with my moto on the side stand the oil sight glass didn't show any oil. I said the bike had oil, and on the side stand it wasn't registering. I left home and stopping to top off but then the engine wouldn't crank--press button and no...

www.stromtrooper.com

 

[Marmora]

New starter please. It will fail.Prolly when it is raining,or -20 ,or +40 ,in the middle of B.F. (Insert state here).

 

[xtian]

I really expected to get Woot-Woot for JBWeld patch of the resin. LOL.

Whatever is going on with the resin coating, I'm hard pressed to see the coil at the present problem

• Armature Coil
  • Using multi-meter measure
    • Continuity between each segment - PASS
    • No continuity between segments and shaft - PASS

And from the previous thread I had spin when I zapped it direct connect from battery--which was our test I should be good with the starter. The only thing I didn't do was zap it installed on the moto. Maybe I should do that next...

"...shop for a used starter."

Funny thing is, I think this would be a good used starter. haha