I see that like the newer 1000s, the 650's hot wire from the signals fuse is now also white with a green stripe instead of the older models' orange with a green stripe.

 

Yup. Shared the photos with Jim and he is going to update the site. He was not aware that the '17 650s had changed.

 

Looks great, and nice work.

This (I think even an EB product) is going to be my little "winter project". But it scares the living peepee out of me.

I currently have an unswitched set of heated grips from the previous owner, want to install both a heated clothing/tender socket and a USB socket (both of which can be unswitched, I guess), and do some general tidy up.

Except, I have never soldered, I have never done a cable tap, and I'm just a big chicken. So, lie to me so I can send EB my money.

Maybe he'll send me a free one if I help clean up his installation PDFs.....

 

The Eastern Beaver PC-8 and the H4 headlight relay were the first real electrical projects I ever did, and I was a little intimidated too. In fact, there's a post on here somewhere where I took a photo of the headlight harness, numbered all the connections, and asked for someone to tell me which number connected to which other number; basically, it was like an electrical version of the old Garanimals clothing for kids (you know, a tiger shirt goes with a tiger pants, etc). It gave me a lot of confidence, though, and since then I've done a lot of wiring for different accessories, with never a spark or a whiff of ozone.

Learning to solder is a great skill. I learned it from watching Youtube videos. Now, I solder all my electrical connections when I do a project; I prefer it to mechanical connectors. It's permanent, it doesn't vibrate loose, and in tight areas a soldered joint takes up a lot less space than a crimp connector or wire nut.

 

EB stuff is plug and play, no soldering required. That being said, soldering is fun. It's really satisfying too. Make joints mechanically sound so they don't move while soldering. Get the joint hot enough so the wire melts the solder and you can see it run so it's not just contact with the iron doing the melting. Use rosin core solder. Affix soldered wires so movement like handlebar swing doesn't flex the joint after cooling.

 

I love soldering! I was scared of it, too, but I got some basic DIY electronics kits from AdaFruit a few years ago, and now I solder my own keyboards (I'm a big :nerd:.. its like building your own lightsaber for computer engineers). Highly recommend picking it up as a skill.

 

Clean bike and clean installation.
The plug and play sure makes for a satisfactory project and it's faster even if it costs a bit. I have a couple EB devices and they do make the job easy.

 

Now I wish it had 10 circuits. Mine is filled. I have too much junk on the bike I guess.

 

Thanks rwbandler. I have one final question. You, like everyone else on the internet who has done such a tutorial, whether pictures or video, did a great job of showing everything except one. Where the last connection is for the 2017 650 XT. By "last connection" I mean the one that goes into the switched circuit. Bare with me as I am a complete electronics moron. I can change out a ceiling fan or light and I can change out an electrical outlet and that's it. I guess that means, I know just enough to be dangerous. So, for this process of installing the PC-8, I know now how to connect the wires to the battery. I know how and what wires to connect where on the fuse block/PC-8. That takes care of five major wires. The last one is a connector with a male end and female end. In concept, it makes sense to me that there is currently a connection comprised of identical male/female connectors already connected somewhere on the bike. If I understand things correctly, I need to find that connection, separate the male and female and, in place of that connection I use the two I have to connect to that connection. First, is that correct. Second, where is it? Is it the one in your second picture which has two wires, one green and white and one brown/black/blue and white, coming out of it. I just don't want to screw this up. With me and electricity, I can see me doing something on my motorcycle and then have everybody in Springfield wondering what Homer has done now to cause their outage. I don't want to get Homer in trouble. Thanks in advance.

 

I think you are looking for the powered connection that is coming off the rear brake light switch. The connector I used is located above the rear brake pedal as it gets into the battery area.

 

Can anybody tell me if the one in the picture is the connection I should be using (middle one with white/green and white/brown)? Is the way to find out to disconnect the connection and check to see if I have brake lights?

 

Is the way to find out to disconnect the connection and check to see if I have brake lights?

The wiring diagram from the factory service manual shows a solid brown wire powers your rear running light and licence plate light. It should be the same color wire as the one that powers your front parking light, which is super easy to remove and look at. Just reach under the beak and pull it out.

 

That looks the same as mine. To be sure, disconnect it, activate the rear brake pedal and check for the brake light to come on. It shouldn't. But it will if you pull the front brake lever. I have the Eastern Beaver 3CS wiring harness. I test fitted it and all works as it should. I will be installing at a later date.

 

you are correct.

 

Thanks for confirming that for me. I appreciate it.

 

Hope you got it sorted out. I concur with Nicad.

 

One of the wires in the connector that you posted a picture of is hot when the switch is on. I don't remember which one it is right off the bat. Do you have a test lamp? If not get one. It'll help you greatly.

 

A bit wide of the original topic, but I just picked up an '18 XT. Didn't see anything on the EB website for setting up the headlight relays for the new model. Anybody know differently?

 

https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl650a-2017/420177-2017-dl650-headlight-relays.html

 

Just 3 wires for the tail light. The dim running light has a positive wire (hot when bike is on), the brake light has a positive wire (hot when you brake), and one ground wire that services both the running light and brake functions, as well as ALL rear lighting. The license plate light shares the running light positive wire since they function in the same manner. Right and left turn signals each get their own deticated positive wire.

These are all your rear lighting wires.

 

I love this forum. I searched for that trigger connector for an hour and figured that someone would have posted where it was. The install photos were most helpful. The PC-8 is installed and connected farkles are happy. Thanks.

 

Just finished the installation of the PC-8 accessory fuse panel on my new Wee3. For years, I had either tapped into existing circuits or gone directly to the battery. This is a much better solution, offering a default of two un-switched circuits and 6 switched circuits. I have done this on my last few bikes.

More info here: PC-8

No affiliation with Jim Davis who owns Eastern Beaver, just a satisfied customer. Jim did a great job helping me track down the new connection points for the 2017.

The trigger connector is no longer under the gas tank, it is now under the right subframe rail directly across from the battery:

Closer look:

This is Jim's plug and play connector. No cutting, splicing, soldering. Just plug in.

Relay tucks in above the battery:

Very neat installation with 3M posi lock above the tool compartment:

Only have one item attached now, battery tender line, which will also power my heated gear. Will be adding heated grips, GPS and LED driving lights.

Great kit!

Rob

Thank you for that! I was wondering what that cable was for [the switching lead].

Still sorting out what goes where. Still need to find stock horn trigger for new horns relay and high beam for new LED ditch lights. Any help would be greatly appreciated! 2021 Wee3 XTA.

.

 

Still sorting out what goes where. Still need to find stock horn trigger for new horns relay and high beam for new LED ditch lights. Any help would be greatly appreciated! 2021 Wee3 XTA.

Can't help with the high beam, but for the horn, I just used the OEM horn connector and stuck a spade connector in it to power the relay. No tap needed. My horn relay harness is AdventureTech LLC's relay kit for their aux LED lights (slightly modified - I have no idea why Suzuki chose to switch the ground side of the horn instead of the hot side).

FWIW, I also didn't use the Eastern Beaver-supplied connector for this bike for the PC8, because I wanted power when the accessory/parking lights are on (the one he supplies only has power when the ignition is on). I want to be able to charge a device without the bike running. I used his generic harness and tapped the tail light instead.