The '02 (and possibly early '03 models as well) had a four-magnet rotor. Suzuki switched to six-magnet rotors somewhere around the 2003 mark.

Six-magnet rotors are known to be troublesome and we highly recommend the JB Weld "bridge" fix for those. Four-magnet rotors have far fewer failure reports: You are the second one I have heard about, ever.

Unfortunately that's all the good news I have for you. I'm afraid the rest is going to be bad.

First, yes, bits of magnet could've migrated to loads of places. However, they usually end up at the oil screen that sits just above/in the sump. From memory you need to pull the clutch cover to access that screen. If you get all the debris out of there, you are probably good. Before the oil gets into the oil passages it has to pass that screen, the oil pump and the oil filter. So there's no danger, I think, from bits of magnets to make it to your valves, piston rings and other delicate bits.

Second, nobody has ever come up with a way to purchase magnets individually. Suzuki doesn't sell them, and nobody has found independent magnet manufacturers that make them. Not for six-magnet rotors, not for four-magnets. For six-magnet rotors magnets come up for sale on this forum every now and then, when someone decides to buy a new rotor instead of fixing it. But as four-magnet rotor problems are rare, I've not seen any of those magnets for sale ever. Your only option would be to get a new rotor for an '02, or a salvage one from a wrecked bike.

As far as that TL rotor is concerned, do you know the exact model year? If you go to a site like Motorcycle Parts From Europe’s Number 1 - MSP and select the right bike, you can find the exact part number for every part of every bike. If the part numbers of the rotor between the TL and your DL match, then it's the same part. If it's not, then you can still try to make it work, but consider this: The clearance between the magnets and the stator legs is deliberately very small, so if that TL rotor is ever so slightly smaller, it will hit those legs. Not good. If I were to do such a transplant, I would probably transplant the stator as well, just to make sure the clearance between stator and rotor is as-designed.

Edited: I just checked and the part numbers between the '02 DL1000 and '02 TL1000 are different. It also looks like the attachment method between the rotor and crank is different so a transplant would be extremely challenging.

Suzuki DL1000 V-STROM 2002 Magnets - MSP

Suzuki DL1000 V-STROM 2002 Magnets - order parts in just a few clicks from Europe’s number 1 genuine spare parts online retailer

www.motorcyclespareparts.eu

Suzuki TL1000R 2002 Magnets - MSP

Suzuki TL1000R 2002 Magnets - order parts in just a few clicks from Europe’s number 1 genuine spare parts online retailer

www.motorcyclespareparts.eu

 

Four-magnet rotors have far fewer failure reports: You are the second one I have heard about, ever.

Always knew I was too dang lucky my whole life, but not to this extent...

 

That "4" magnet rotor for your 2002 DL 1000 is correct and original. 2003 and newer models have the 6 magnet rotor...
This may be the first time I have heard of the magnets coming apart in a 2002! I wonder if someone maybe installed a new stator and it was hitting the magnets? The stator and rotor are unique to the 2002 model.
A TL rotor will not work as far as I know. They have different timing bumps on them as I recall.
While no one wants loose magnet parts floating around, there are MANY cases of exactly the same thing happening to these bikes. Clean it out as best you can. Seems to not have any bad effects on the engine.
Sourcing magnets to fix yours will be tough. Finding a used rotor will be a challenge too.

 

Thanks a lot everyone! Really useful indeed! Wow, I had no idea a 2002 ought to have 4 magnets. I guess there's no way I could come across one of these XD Is it possible to switch to a newer model rotor AND stator? Got both of them totalled anyway

P.s. What's exactly the name of the JB product you guys using?) I'll probably have to import it from elsewhere
Any similar product by Locktite, Abro or others maybe?)

Long-anticipated pics. Please note the alternator coils output wires already modified with some hillbilly engineering 😱😭

 

Sorry to say but that stator looks OEM Suzuki to me - apart from that blob of magnet residu (?) on the LHS.

It may look like hillbilly engineering but that's not necessarily the case. The stator is wound, leads are attached and everything is tucked in tight and tightened with some string. What then happens is that the whole thing is dipped in epoxy, to keep everything in place and to prevent internal vibration. It's eventually the epoxy that keeps everything in place. It looks a bit of a mess but it works just fine.

What's wrong of course is the scrape marks at the end of the stator legs. Whether that's the cause, or caused by the magnet disintegrating is impossible to tell.

 

It may look like hillbilly engineering but that's not necessarily the case. The stator is wound, leads are attached and everything is tucked in tight and tightened with some string. What then happens is that the whole thing is dipped in epoxy, to keep everything in place and to prevent internal vibration. It's eventually the epoxy that keeps everything in place. It looks a bit of a mess but it works just fine.

I didn't mean the epoxy ofc, rather a piece of cloth tied with a knot holding the wires in place )) Lol, looks weird, not factory-like XD
anyway, the thing is now destroyed.Or how they say in SpaceX - Unscheduled Rapid Disassembly 💥 Now the only option seems to replace the rotor AND the stator..
The rotor now being my major pain as the coils can be ordered from China

 

Agree that it does look a bit 19th century, but a bit of string like this doesn't have any sharp corners that can damage/chafe the wire insulation, it is thinner and wraps around a stator post tighter, and the knot is smaller than the stud of a tie-wrap. And just as secure.

 

Well, who knows, maybe these coils would have functioned for another decade, if not for a stray magnet that'd ruined them

 

If it was me, I would drain the oil through a few of layers of cheese cloth, inspect the magnetic drain plug and cut open the oil filter. If you see any debris, rinse and repeat until you don't see any debris. It would really suck if a piece of magnet clogged an oil passage.

 

I'm curious if anyone has wired up a car/boat size battery and carried it as a pillion and how many miles it's good for between charges.

 

Going from memory here. The '02 has a charging capacity of about 350W, of which about 100W usable. So the bike uses around 250W. A little over 100W of that is for the dual headlamps, which you can switch off during the day. So fuel pump and ECU combined will use about 150W. At 12V that's a little over 12A.

My old VW Diesel had a 72 Ah battery that looks like it's about the largest that could fit in my top box. 72Ah/12A is six hours. With lights on, about 3 hours.

Of course these are ballpark figures only. YMMV and I'm not recommending this as a solution. I'm just satisfying the curiosity of @truex14 here.

 

The most appealing option would be a 2003-2012(?) stator/rotor matched set. However, how much different would the mounting be versus the 2002. I suspect there'd be no difference. I mean, why would they make a change from the very 1st model year immediately to the 2nd and subsequent years?

 

When all else fails in trying to source a stator / rotor matched set.... a possible option is to go something like this.... https://www.stromtrooper.com/threads/worlds-most-powerful-v-strom.70122/

 

Very impressive! I wish there were better quality pictures though... Also, I wonder how in the world did he connect the driving pulley to the crankshaft. Anyway, that's one hell of a project, and a whole lot of brilliant craftsmanship. My deepest respect to the inventor, he's a genius. Can only be accomplished provided you're not in an emergency situation and have at least, one more vehicle to haul your body around in the meanwhile.

 

I looked in the parts catalog and the 2002 and 2004 DL1000s have the same crankshafts. Magneto mounts on crankshafts. It can be assumed that a 2004 magneto will fit a 2002 crankshaft. The parts catalog shows that the stators are still the same for the 2002 model and the 2004 model. Gathering the info, I assume you can put a newer model magneto on a 2002 model and everything should work.

 

That is NOT what the Suzuki parts book shows! Stator for 2002 is 32101-06G00. Stator for 2003 and newer first generation is 32101-06G11. Rotors are different part numbers. The 2002 is actually shown as a lot cheaper!

Now I cannot say you would have any issue with installing a later style rotor and stator into a 2002. I would probably change/upgrade the Regulator/Rectifier also if attempting that.

 

Thank you so much, guys! Yeah, I will probably have to go for a complete rotor\stator assy replacement. Also been thinking of attaching a huge battery and charge it overnight... With those price tags on basically everything here in this god foresaken part of the world, guess, that's the only option I could possibly afford The idea came across my mind even before it had been mentioned here in the forum, LOL ( The worst thing is that motorcycle is my only means of transportation, not a weekend toy, I actually commute 365 days a year, any weather, so every day of that vehicle sitting around causes me significant problems(

 

How many miles/km on this 1000? This has been an interesting Post. Thanks!

 

Does anyone know what the OEM rotor magnets are made of? Presumably an iron alloy?

Given that replacement OEM type magnets are unavailable, has anyone been either brave or crazy enough to try substituting neodymium magnets?

To generate power, you need appropriately-oriented magnetic fields passing through the stator as the rotor turns. I dont' see why Nd magnets could not be used, in principle at least.

There are curved Nd magnets available, but even if you couldn't find them in the needed curvature, there might be room for thin enough disc- or rectangular ones, epoxied in place to maintain their orientation.

For instance:

Neodymium Arc Magnets: Rare Earth, High-Temperature Options (magnet4sale.com)


IIRC Nd magnets have around twice the magnetic intensity of comparable iron magnets. Since they are so strong, presumably you could use fewer of them, spaced appropriately.

That might be fun to play with. Or it might be really stupid.

 

The oem magnets are sintered ceramic (or Ferrite, same thing, strontium is the secret sauce) and have very good resistance to heat. Their resistance to demagnetization improves as the temperature does up, which is ideal. Stated differently, their coercivity goes up as temperature goes up. They are typically safe up to 180C (350'ish F).

Rare earth magnets in general, and neodymium magnets in particular are the other way. Their coercivity goes down as the temperature goes up. Garden variety neodymium magnets can be permanently damaged by temperatures as low as 170F. There are classes of neodymium magnets that have substantially better heat resistance. The first one that I clicked on in the above link is SH rated, good up to 302F. How hot does our engine oil get???

If you do a search for sintered ferrite arc magnets, there is a ton of information out there. These guys make everything under the sun. Looks like a wholesale/industrial supplier, but I see their MOQ is as low as 10 pieces if somebody is curious:

https://www.hsmagnets.com/product/segment-ferrite-permanent-motor-rotor-magnets/

It would be awesome if we could find aftermarket magnets.

MAGNET TYPE SUFFIX	Max. Working Temperature (based on High working point)
No suffix	80 ºC = 176 ºF *
M	100ºC = 212 ºF
H	120ºC = 248 ºF
SH	150ºC = 302 ºF
UH	180 ºC = 356 ºF
EH	200 ºC = 392 ºF
AH	230 ºC = 446 ºF
	* 60 ºC for N50 and N52

 

Being fairly new to the MC world, I'm always surprised that there's enough volume to sustain people like @realshelby, Eastern Beaver, @richlandrick and others, all making some unique niche products that are valued by the community. If there's a company out there that can manufacture individual magnets for our four-magnet and six-magnet rotors, in a fairly low order size, I would imagine that one of these guys could pick up a batch and sell them as individual magnets, as a side business to their existing business. Most often people just need a single magnet (and a tube of JB Weld) to complete their rotor repair, so if the individual magnet comes out at a price that's under the cost of a new rotor, you're in business.

Heck, Terry is doing the clutch basket mod already, so refurbishing rotors would not be a real stretch.

Does anybody know whether shipping individual magnets or complete rotors causes problems for customs or air freight, due to the magnetism involved?

 

Magnets have to be shipped with magnetic shielding. Which just amounts to a very thin piece of steel sheet metal. Not a big deal.

 

There are after-market stators available. Too-Shaggy got one from Cycle Gear. My advice was we know the Suzuki rotors are flawed, so go with aftermarket. It worked for him.

 

Hey guys, there's an important update on the situation, I have found some guys offering me a newly rebuilt SV 1000 '04 magneto, the pics below. I wonder if it can be used with the DL. From just looking at my '02 magneto it's becoming obvious mine only has 4 teeth, or notches on it, evenly spaced every 90 degrees, while the SV thing has like a whole lot of them I wonder if they gonna drive my pickup coil crazy)))) Anyway, it seems like the only option I have so far, so maybe just grind down those extra teeth? Is there any other hidden differences?
Thanks in advance.
Also, I do agree with my bros from above, as Neodimium and other rare earth magnets, though having tremendous magnetic field, they have low so-called Curie point, the temperature above which a magnet is no longer magnetic. (I aint no scientist here, be sure to correct me if I'm wrong)) In other words, constant heating and reheating it to 80-100 degrees C won't do them any good, I guess, if a generator was a separate belt-driven unit like found in cars, it woud have been worth trying

 

The SV rotor would have to be modified. Assuming there are "bumps" in the right places to leave on it and grind off the extra ones. These bumps MUST be in the exact spot ( I would used the keyway to determine that) as the original DL rotor has them. The SV has a completely different computer with more accurate timing and uses these additional "bumps" of square metal to trigger the timing sensor. The picture you show....is very interesting. I don't see magnets and I have no idea what that yellow line is? You mention rebuilt.... it appears someone has come up with a way to insert an encapsulated magnet into the rotor?

 

Those guys can't rebuild your existing DL magnet? It would solve the problem...

 

He asked me to send him my old magneto as a part of the deal, so he might well be the one who got it rebuilt. The pricing is nuts though, he's asking for $250 plus my old magneto. About the stator, only found one offer,used, for $200 (!), more expensive than a brand new original unit... I dunno what do these guys consume to keep them THIS far from reality, but they definitely have to spare me some... Needless to say, all the aformentioned is located ABROAD, so another like $50 shall be wasted for shipping and that kind of stuff

 

In reply to the comment "if a generator was a separate belt-driven unit like found in cars, it woud have been worth trying " in reply #29 above, the extrenal mounted alternator that I refered to in #15 was also done on an SV.
A few pix of the process on the SV where posted in opening post of https://www.sv-portal.com/threads/external-alternator-for-sv1000.74602/. May be worth having a look at...

Edit: A few pix posted to explain the mod in reply #15, can be viewed on https://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,15655.0.html.

 

I had an '02 and the Magnets came looks had to do the fix and a rectifier to get my charge back.. Pretty simple but yes mine came unglued at 33,000 miles. It's honestly a common issue even for the 4 magnets

 

Long time no see guys! I apologise for having abandoned this topic, been having our tiny snow apocalypse here hehe, so I got cut off the net, so thank God I've managed to send it to some guy in the neighboring country. this is an outstanding example of craftsmanship, this man is a badass wizard, the magneto he made is 1000% better than the stock one, it has a metal screen, and not 4 magnets, but a whole dang lot of them! I guess, the energy output should be WAAY higher now, hope it wont fry my reg-rec hehe))
What about the coils - he ditched my old ones for the good and equipped me with some good fancy looking Chinese stator, a great job seems to have been made for replacing all my ruined cables and rearranging them in such a manner they could work with the V strom (the thing is not original, must be from some kind of ATV (?)
I hereby attach some videos and meanwhile they are being uploaded,

please do take a glance at a paintjob I've made during this week of longing and waiting for the parts:
p.s. Don't blame me for the windscreen for it was already old and foggy

 

Wow! That new stator/rotor set-up looks awesome! What neighbouring country did you send it to? I have seen many examples of good old-fashioned artisanship here in Central Europe over the years. Lots of thinking outside the box and ending up with new and improved stuff.

I'm going to have to reserve judgement on the paint job until I see it all back on the bike

 

Ain't no secret! I can even share his contacts The guy doesn't speak English, though
He's located in Serbia. If only he had a chance to live and work in a better country, he would have become a millionaire already. His craftsmanship is out of this world. This is not my first time witnessing his masterpiece.

The paintjob is gonna be BAD to the bone 😈🤟
p.s. The cost was 280e total, along with shipping the parts to and fro


Also, if someone knows what's the specified torque for the bolt holding the Rotor in place? Should I apply some blue Loctite, or it's ok without thereof?

 

That is an awesome looking rotor rebuild. I'm not sure where you'd go for something like that in the States. Most people who have magnets disintegrate seem to end up getting a replacement rotor, used or new.

I wouldn't expect a ton of extra power. You may get some, as if I recall correctly, the original charging system on the 2002 bikes had lower output than on the later DL1000's.

I think it depends on how close to magnetic saturation was the original setup. If I'm recalling correctly, the stator can only source so much current, no matter how much magnetic flux you put through it (e.g. more or stronger magnets).

@InverterMan can likely shed more light on that point.

 

Hi guys and girls, it's a high honor to join your community I would really appreciate some clever advice.

I've bought my first ever V-strom, the bike was running OK, but was not charging. Testing the coils showed no continuity whatsoever. So I thought mabe the alternator coils are toasted, things happen... So we struck a deal and I hauled the thing back home only to discover the magneto ROTOR was ruined. One magnet came loose and destroyed everything inside. A dreadful sight, bits of magnet came to rest on every iron surface, later I'm gonna post pics. From as far as I can see it has already been modified before by someone not very clever, as instead of 6 permanent magnets arranged in a hex shape, the rotor had 4 big magnets, one of which gotr detached and scattered all across the engine.
My question is: how dangerous is this for the engine itself? Can those magnets possibly pile up somewhere, blocking an oil passage or something? Is it possible to extract them removing the clutch cover, or a teardown is imminent?
Also, is there any way to get that rotor fixed somehow? The sad truth is that I live in Balkans, where nothing is available but firewood, and the new unit cost is comparable to what I make monthly, and even so, shipping to this pothole of the Earth can take months and months . Maybe someone had previously solved this problem using some custom-made or industrial magnets?
I know the problem is fairly common on the V strom, so my apologies if this has already been discussed at some point in the past.
Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Also I'd buy a used rotor if someone has a spare one lying around
Nox Vidmate VLC
P.s. here we have a dirt cheap TL1000 for sale, I wonder if the flywheel is the same and if I could use it for my DL?

Six-magnet rotors are known to be troublesome and we highly recommend the JB Weld "bridge" fix for those. Four-magnet rotors have far fewer failure reports: You are the second one I have heard about, ever.

 

The glue is getting very old now so I expect to see more