I used Honda seals which are just as good but were much cheaper, this Fork Seals thread has the Honda OEM number.

Caveat, this is for the DL650 so you'll have to cross check the part number to see if its the same as the Vee.

 

Caveat, this is for the DL650 so you'll have to cross check the part number to see if its the same as the Vee.

Also I think the wee and the glee are different too.

 

Of course I'll also need some fork oil - looking up the info on that today.

Look up ATF as fork oil, many of us are using it unless you are after a heavier weight.

Also be aware the 10 weight in one brand may not be 10w in another brand.

 

I think the seal and dust cover and oil et al were about $70 for the pair at the local power shop. Not horrible for something that doesn't get replaced often.

 

The good news is, I may not need new seals after all - at least, not now.

I cleaned the suspected seal with a Seal Mate tool a couple of days ago. Seemed like it was still leaking a little, so I did it again yesterday, and wiped all residue off the inner tube so I could tell if it did leak again.

I'm happy to say that after a couple of hundred miles today, during much of which the forks got a real workout, there doesn't seem to be any leaking.

Still going to swap the fork oil - it's really dirty.

Might do the seals anyway. I looked again, and I'm not super sure what's going on. Almost looks like someone installed DL650 seals on one side (??). Hard to be sure though. While the oil & dust seals are clearly different part numbers between the DL650 and DL1000, the parts diagrams look the same.

 

I had the same kind of result cleaning the seals but after a couple years i finally replace one of the seals. Just follow the instruction carefully. RTFM!:wink2:

 

This is a good tip to get the seal in place without a special tool.

 

This is a good tip to get the seal in place without a special tool...

That's cool.

You can make a seal driver out of a piece of PVC pipe spilt length wise also.

 

Neat-o easy peasy.

 

The DL1000 is a cartridge fork but easy to change seals on. You will need a longer than normal allen socket for the bolt at the bottom of the fork and easiest to remove using an impact gun (don't use a ball end allen for this, get a quality one without the ball).
In the service manual, it calls for a special tool to connect to the threaded rod of the cartridge inside the fork but you don't need it. When you have everything open with the rod accessible, you can put a wire on it (the rod moves down into the fork and the special tool threads onto it so you have something to grab onto that doesn't disappear into the fork. This is why a wire works just fine without the cost of a specialty tool).
I recommend getting a proper seal driver for ease of use. When I did mine, the bike had over 40k on it so I replaced bushings also (and if you have stock springs, this is a great time to install springs for your weight).

 

thanks!

The DL1000 is a cartridge fork but easy to change seals on. You will need a longer than normal allen socket for the bolt at the bottom of the fork and easiest to remove using an impact gun (don't use a ball end allen for this, get a quality one without the ball).
In the service manual, it calls for a special tool to connect to the threaded rod of the cartridge inside the fork but you don't need it. When you have everything open with the rod accessible, you can put a wire on it (the rod moves down into the fork and the special tool threads onto it so you have something to grab onto that doesn't disappear into the fork. This is why a wire works just fine without the cost of a specialty tool).
I recommend getting a proper seal driver for ease of use. When I did mine, the bike had over 40k on it so I replaced bushings also (and if you have stock springs, this is a great time to install springs for your weight).

Do you have any recommendations on aftermarket springs?

One problem here is that I've been losing weight lately. By the time I get around to an install, I may be 20 lb or more lighter. I'm already closing in on 20 lb lighter than I was when I bought the bike.

By "bushings" do you mean these parts:

#11 BUSH, SLIDE 51121-13E00

#12 BUSH, GUIDE 51152-13E00

?

FWIW, this video goes into a YUGE amount of detail on the job. Narrator's Vee is even pretty much identical to mine, being a 2005:

 

Thanks Desert Bike, I try to be as detailed as I can. Trying to pay attention to the work and talk isn't easy. That hour and a half job took about 6 hours because of doing the video, but if it helps people I don't mind at all.

 

DesertBike, I went with Racetech springs. They have a spring rate calculator that works well.
I would look at the calculations for your weight and the weight you expect to lose. On the front it probably will not make a huge difference. The rear spring takes the brunt of our abuse.
Another inexpensive but highly recommended upgrade is a fork brace. I got one from Adventure Tech and is a quality piece.

 

Lost left fork seal somewhere between Akron OH and Johnson City TN. No help from local shops but tried seal cleaner. Thought I was home free until northern WV. Both seals let go. Had to limp home to VT. 2015 Strom with 22,000 miles.

It seems a little early for this problem?