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Fork seals--let's be honest

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24K views 27 replies 21 participants last post by  Toshbar  
M
#1 ·
So my 09 650 is in need of fork seals, typical with use I suppose. My question is...do I go with OEM for $116 (with no bushings) or All Balls seals and dust covers for $25? Maybe I'm trying to be cheap here, but I don't see that OEM is 4+ times better than All Balls based on relative price. On the other hand, I don't want to be replacing the seals every time I turn around either.

I tried unsuccessfully to find SKF and as far as I know, they do not make fork seals for an 09 650. Trying to find them included a conversation with SKF by phone, so I am pretty sure there is no such thing.

So which have folks had more success with--All Balls or OEM? And if you have a link to something better that you know to be better based upon first-hand experience, I am willing to listen, but only if you post a link to where I can get the particular seals you are talking about. I'm sick of chasing Unicorns (SKF :frown2:).
 
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#2 ·
I had the seals done on my SV last season and when I showed up with the oem units, the shop recommended that next time I use the All Balls ones. I had no idea they were so much cheaper. The oem seals and dust covers for my 2005 SV1000 were maybe $65 max at a local dealer. Maybe your dealer isn't the cheapest source?
 
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M
#4 ·
I have a properly shaped thin piece of clear plastic that I have used. Does that produce different results than the Seal Mate? My guess is they are essentially the same, but I could be wrong.

The left dust seal also has some very slight, but noticeable vertical cracking a millimeter or two down from the top surface. My guess is that is from the arid and hot region I am in, Tucson.
 
#6 ·
As posted by Wingstrom you really should try cleaning first. In all cases on my two DL650's any fork leakage was taken care of easily and completely by using Sealmate.

Don't get new seals without trying this first unless you just have to spend the money.

..Tom
 
C
#7 ·
I used some All Balls for mine. I change my fork oil every couple years and it is not that more difficult to swap the seal at the same time. My original seals got torn apart in the first 5K miles from how and where I ride, so I just see them as preventative maintenance now.
 
#9 ·
Where on earth is $116 coming from?

OEM fork oil seals are only $15 or $16 each. $15.37 at my local shoppe:
https://www.onlinecycleparts.com/oemparts/a/suz/506b5d67f8700235b8768162/front-damper

The "dust seals" are just wipers. Replacing them is optional unless they're destroyed. They're only $17.71 each at the link above.


And yes, OEM seals are the best quality and longest lasting by far. They're well worth the small price premium. I'm not sure they're worth that $116, though...
 
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M
#14 ·
https://www.motosport.com/suzuki-genuine-accessories-fork-seal-kit . I think I have seen them at that price in at least one other place as well, leading me to believe that was the standard price. That said, your link to onlinecycleparts is awesome, thank you!

dmfdmf said:
I used Honda OEM seal set that I got from Dougherty Motorsports for $20 per shock. Much cheaper than Suzuki seals.
Click to expand...
Fox said:
Try to get them to reseal first, as others have recommended.

The All Balls seals I used were shit, and I got only one season out of them. After hitting the 'snooz' button on the issue a couple of times with a sealmate, I rebuilt them again only 24k miles later.

If you want to save some money, get the following Honda fork seals:

Honda 51490-MCF-000 (SEAL SET, FR. FORK)

The part number includes one oil seal and one dust wiper, so you'll need to order two.

They were under $30 total, and this build has lasted 40k miles with no leaks.
Click to expand...
I very well may go with these as it appears they are holding up well. Richlandrick's recommendation on switching to PJ1 with seal sweller is also an excellent idea!

Thank you all very much!
 
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#11 ·
I used Honda OEM seal set that I got from Dougherty Motorsports for $20 per shock. Much cheaper than Suzuki seals.
 
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#12 ·
Try to get them to reseal first, as others have recommended.

The All Balls seals I used were shit, and I got only one season out of them. After hitting the 'snooz' button on the issue a couple of times with a sealmate, I rebuilt them again only 24k miles later.

If you want to save some money, get the following Honda fork seals:

Honda 51490-MCF-000 (SEAL SET, FR. FORK)

The part number includes one oil seal and one dust wiper, so you'll need to order two.

They were under $30 total, and this build has lasted 40k miles with no leaks.
 
#16 ·
My Wee had a persistent leak from the left legs seal and my V2 also developed a leak in the left seal.

The seal mate would solve the problems for a few days to a couple of weeks but they would always return.

I cut some strips of green plastic kitchen sourer pad and put it between the oil seal and the dust cover, the pad keeps the tubes clean.

I change the strip every few months or on a real muddy rides, it's been about 2 years now and the leaks have never returned.
 
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#17 ·
OE is certainly best, however I have used seal from Denniskirk.com, (Parts Unlimited brand), with good results. Lasts about 30k miles for me, normal riding with no dirt and no wheelies. They are OE style, double lip, and the only difference is the parts unlimited name vs. NGK. About 10 bucks for a pair. Don't forget to use a new copper washer for the bottom bolt. It's a special size to fit in the well, and I've only found them at the dealer or OE websites, nothing in the regular hardware stores.
 
N
#19 ·
I recently installed the K&L seals from rockymountainatv. It was more out of convenience than anything else because I had quite a few maintenance items to buy.
I can only vouch for the fact they have made it about 100 miles since install without leaking.
 
#20 ·
I had to replace on seal on my 2005 Wee when it was only a few years old. Got the seal from a local dealer and seems it was not very much at all. That $100+ kit seems expensive if all you need is a couple of seals.

The seal rejuvenation stuff can work...sometimes.....well it depends.....maybe....if you are lucky. Most of those products have chemicals that soften up the rubber in the seal. Sometimes it can soften them up to the point where they start falling apart. Yes, it works under certain conditions but nothing works better than a nice new set of quality seals properly installed. (Don't forget to lube them on the lips...nothing worse than dry lips!)
 
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#21 ·
Here's and interesting fact there really is no such thing as a "fork seal". They are nothing more then single or double lip "end shaft seals" that are renamed. Where I work has a electrical motor/machine shop and the use of end shaft seals is rampant. When ever I need wheel bearing seals or fork seal (both technically end shaft seals) I take out the old seal look for the numbers stamped into the rubber (metric dimensions) nand give the parts guy those numbers. Within a day or two I get a call that my new seals are in and they are typically $3 to $5 each.
 
#28 ·
Fork seals have lips that are in a single radial plane. End shaft seals have direction-specific spiraling lips that helps to spin oil back to the wet side of the seal. Take a look at a countershaft seal and you'll see what I'm talking about.
 
#23 ·
I replaced basically everything in the kit you're talking about from Suzuki with OEM Suzuki parts at about 40k miles. I did this because I'd never had the forks apart before and was installing a CCD kit from Cogent so I rebuilt the whole thing, bushings, etc. I had the left side leak once but that was easily cleaned up with a pice of 35mm film and lasted for another 10k. Sounds like you're seals have age issues and need replacing. If your fork has never been completely rebuilt now may be the time but there also is no good reason to not at the very least pull the legs and replace the upper seal that you say is cracking and change the oil. Note that you can purchase all of the parts of that Suzuki kit separately. When I can easily get 40k miles + out of the OEM kit it's worth the money. This is riding in all kinds of weather, on and off road, 9+ months of the year in Ohio so...
 
R
#24 ·
Last fork seal change used Pyramid from Parts Unlimited. Seem fine but no great miles on that bike.

What fork does an 09 650 USE?
looking at specifications all i find is description not brand.
Innteck (skf dealer) lists 43mm forks Kayaba, Showa, WP, Sachs. Odd.
 
M
#25 ·
rabbit said:
Innteck (skf dealer) lists 43mm forks Kayaba, Showa, WP, Sachs. Odd.
Click to expand...
I agree, and I think that is what has contributed to some of the confusion about skf. They make 43mm seals, but they tell me those will not fit a DL-650. IDK. It may be an outer diameter issue.

On a side note, I did do the scour pad idea mentioned earlier in this thread. I was careful to have an "inner" diameter slightly less than that of the inner tube and an "outer" diameter slightly more than that of the outer tube. I was hoping to eliminate any possibility of the fork oil getting through. It has not stopped the leak. This was after using the film seal mate thing I used to try to remove dust and dirt. Looks like new seals are a must. I'll probably also replace the guide and slide metal bushings as well just as BlackLab did in his tutorial.
 
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#27 ·
Two things are the major cause of fork leaks. 1. Bug guts. 2. Stone chips on the exposed leg. I fought this for 90k using 35mm film to remove guts from the seals. For 2 I used a very fine file to smooth the chips. At 90K this didn't work anymore and the seals were replaced along with some Rancho Boots. The new seals had a extra wiping edge. At 120K now and haven't cleaned a seal since. GET SOME BOOTS!
Also the fork oil is changed every winter.
 
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