This is the preferred solution: H4KITS

"The VStrom does not come with factory headlight relays and so a lot of current flows through the switches and connectors. This causes early meltdown with loss of headlights. This Kit avoids that problem. Do not wait until your switch burns out or a connector melts, install this Kit even on a new VStrom."

If your switch and/or the connectors are damaged it will be a bit more complicated.

The Eastern Beaver product is custom designed for this exact problem. Yes, you can put your own relays and connectors and wiring together for "less money".
It will take longer and you will have to figure out all the kinks yourself. What's your time worth? Do you enjoy home brew automotive wiring? I do, but I'm odd anyway. Neither way is wrong. Here is a discussion about which way to do it:

Headlight relay - why not Amazon?

so I'm getting that dreaded headlight starter switch issue and am looking into the recommended fixes and am seeing the EB relay fix everywhere. Looking at EB it looks like a very simple wiring harness so I thought that the $80 price tag seemed a bit high for a few relays, h4 plugs and some...

www.stromtrooper.com

 

You need to check the large electrical connector under the left side front fairing. Likely you have corroded/ burned contacts. Search here for that, many threads.
This is one example: Burnt Ground Main Harness Connector?

If that connector is fine you need to identify where the headlight wiring runs and where there are other connectors that are likely damaged.

All this assumes that the starter switch is not the cause.

Do definitely install the headlight relay kit from EB or make your own if you intend to keep the bike. If not it may eventually leave you stranded if you loose ground/ other connection to the instrument panel.

 

The factory wire wrapping under the left front fairing is not great. On my own bike, I noticed that it was hanging down and exposed to sun and rain, and the rubber cover on the connector had separated from the rest of the insulation allowing water to flow in. I rewrapped it and ziptied it out of the way, and it hasn't had another issue in over ten years parked outside. This connector can be accessed without removing the plastics but it is a bit awkward to work in that space.

In my opinion and experience, if you check these connections and clean the headlight switch occasionally, modifications aren't necessary.

edit: Starter switch, not headlight switch.

 

Have a look at the advice in Need wiring diagram and/or HELP!!. There is good info shared in the linked thread. You will find that the link to headlight problems, in reply #7 of that discussionm may not work, so I have included a working link (https://www.stromtrooper.com/threads/headlight-problems.71046/).
Edit: There is a edited wiring diagram in reply #5, of the first link that I posted, that may be of help if you don't have a diagram. It is best to make use of a test lamp over a multimeter when chasing this type of electrical fault. Make up you own test lamp if don't have one.
Let us know how you progress on the fault.

 

Problem solved by replacing starter switch cuff.

 

Perhaps post a pix of the old one, to show where the cause of the failure?

 

So it started out with I noticed the headlights getting dim, yellow. Then one day leaving work my headlights did not come on when key was on or bike started. After research I found there 9s issues with the starter switch. The button you push to start the bike. Two sets of contacts in that little switch. When you push 8n takes power from headlights and sends it to starter. After 58k kilometers that switch would not reconnect to the lights.
I tried servicing the switch that is commonly recommended, only response to that was now the bike would not start either. I purched new OEM "cuff". The cuff has starter switch, kill switch and brake light switch wires all together.
I searched internet for ideas. Found a fellow that described how to remove the entire nose of the bike. This made it much easier (

)tank off, rad bolts undone, and find the wire mulex connector attached to the back plastic housing behind the cooling fan. The wiring part was easy.
After that it is fighting the cables, as I was told it is easy to slack off the cables and work them out then back into place. As you can see from my phot I have the heated grip wire running incorrectly but I will live with that.