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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm riding a 2009 Wee ABS. Until recently, the only problem I ever had was the start button problem resulting in no headlights. That problem is long gone, and before anyone asks, I've re-checked it for the current issue, and it's not the start button.
Now, the current issues: It started out with erratic speedo needle. Thing would jump up and down on occasion, but in general was fine. THEN, I replaced my el-cheapo LED driving lights with some nice PIAA fog lights. This involved new wire-ties to secure the new wires. After this, the speedo problem became more severe. Seemed like it spent as much time jumping down to zero and back up to the actual speed as it spent steady. I figured I had put stress on some connector between the speed sensor in the wheel and the ECU under the seat. Pulled the tank and fairing, and reseated every connector I could find. Put the bike back together and VIOLA! no speedo at all, AND no headlights. First I checked/bypassed the starter switch. Then I started looking for 12 volts in the headlight circuit. None at the bulbs (no surprise there), but also none at the input or output of the two headlamp fuses under the seat.
I pulled everything apart again, and looked for a mistake on my part. I figured that somewhere I had forgotten to plug something back in, or maybe I did not plug it in all the way. Found nothing. After again re-seating all the plugs I could find, all of a sudden, - HEADLIGHTS!! (I got to tell you, I was a service technician in the electronic arena for 34 years. I HATE when a problem just goes away without knowing why!) So I put the bike back together again. This time, after every step, I checked the lights again. Everything seemed okay, and I got the bike all put back together and still had lights (still no speedo, however). Went out locally to run some errands (3 stores, less than 10 miles total). Everything was fine until I got back on at the last store. You guessed it, no lights again.
What I need is a detailed wiring schematic for the 2009 DL650A. I have an old service manual for a 2005, but it doesn't match my bike. I am NOT going to just tear it all down again with no idea what I'm looking for, and no way to confirm that I've fixed it for good. Can anyone help me?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The usual suspects are the connector in the left side of the fairing under a rubber cover and the ones on the back of the radiator shroud on top of the radiator. The ones that connect the wiring from the handlebar switches are the ones to check if the large connector shows continuity of all wires. Ignore the arrow. That's for the OEM heated grip connector. The usual cause of such problems is the high current draw of the headlights which can damage connectors eventually. If the ground connection fails, all sorts of problems occur. Adding headlight relays is recommended.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Headlamps are LED's, very low current draw compared to originals. I also use the headlamp power to trigger a relay for my accessory fuseblock, however the actual power for the fuseblock comes directly from the battery, so there's not much current draw at all. At this point I'd really like to get my hands on a wiring diagram, so I could start at the origin and follow the power to wherever it's getting interrupted.
I will check the "usual suspects when I get enough ambition to go back out in that heat and work on it again. I've done two 6 hour days working over that bike in the high 80's and low 90's, so about now, I'm ready to say f*** *t:furious:.
Of course, even after I get headlights again, there's still that damned speedo.
Thanks for the response, I'll look into it soon.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Buy a factory service manual. There is also a Haynes manual now. I'll bet the LED headlamps were put on after years of running the stock ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Here are diagrams

So I finally found some wiring diagrams on another forum. I've trimmed them down so that only the high and low beam headlight circuits are featured. These have been cut and squeezed so much that if you try to follow any other wires besides the headlights, I can't predict where you'll end up. What I found was that flow works like this:
  • Start at positive battery terminal
  • Thru F1 30AMP main fuse
  • Thru the Ignition (key) switch
  • Thru the starter button (common failure point)
  • Thru the dimmer switch (for hi beam, you can bypass this with the FTP switch)
  • Thru the 15A high beam fuse (F1) in the small fuse box under the seat.
  • On to the headlamp.
Here are my modified diagrams:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The usual suspects are the connector in the left side of the fairing under a rubber cover and the ones on the back of the radiator shroud on top of the radiator. The ones that connect the wiring from the handlebar switches are the ones to check if the large connector shows continuity of all wires. Ignore the arrow. That's for the OEM heated grip connector. The usual cause of such problems is the high current draw of the headlights which can damage connectors eventually. If the ground connection fails, all sorts of problems occur. Adding headlight relays is recommended.
]
After studying the diagrams for a long while, I agree with much of what you have said here. However the large connector in the left fairing seems unlikely if both high and low beams are out. That would require that either BOTH connections failed simultaneously, which is pretty unlikely, or that the ground wire is bad, which you pointed out would carry many other symptoms. I can also eliminate the battery, main fuse, and ignition switch, since the power from there goes on to the horn and brake lights as well, both of which are working. Basically the only things unique to both the high and low beam headlamps are the starter button, the dimmer switch, and the connectors for each. Looks like the tank is coming off again!
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Problem was with the black connector, which comes from the right side handlebar switches. My problem was the problem kept coming and going. I'd reseat plugs and it would work for a while. I needed to know for SURE which connector was messing me up, so I could take extreme measures to eliminate the issue. In my opinion, the wires and connectors for the original headlight circuit are woefully small. I'd expect less than 2 amps to flow through those tiny wires, not the 10 amps that the headlights drew.
Anyway, I'm working on it now. I've burnished the contact pins (rubbing compound, followed by repeated insertion cycles). Cleaned them with solvent and then with electronic tuner spray. Next I'm coating them with Stabilant 22A contact enhancer.
At the same time, I'm re-wiring my front accessory fuseblock to get it's relay trigger from the tail-light instead of the headlights. That way if I DO lose the headlights again, I'll still have fog and driving lights working so I'm not running blind. Thanks for the input.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That probably would have been a great idea in 2009 or 2010. However since I have already unloaded the system by converting to LED, it would be a poor use of my limited available funds today.
I've completed the work. Lights work reliably (at least so far), and now my auxiliary lights are independent of the headlamps so I've got a bit of a backup in place.
The problem with just jumping on the relay-kit bandwagon is this: if the contacts are burnt and corroded already, the very small current needed to activate a relay might just fail to make it through the connection. It's a bit like closing the barn door after the cows have left.
If the cleaning of the contacts does not solve my problem, next I'll be removing the headlight wires from the black connector (O->O/R and Y/W->Y/W) and putting on a good quality weather-proof connector just for those critical wires.
If I was pulling 10-12 AMPS I'd probably go for a relay solution. But I'm only pulling about 4-5 AMPS with these LEDs so I'll take my chances as it sits.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Relays are best installed when the bike is young and the wiring has not suffered abuse yet. Failing that, the sooner the better. After it has been done, the stock headlight wiring is carrying milliamps of power so further degradation is negligible.
 

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Problem was with the black connector, which comes from the right side handlebar switches. My problem was the problem kept coming and going. I'd reseat plugs and it would work for a while. I needed to know for SURE which connector was messing me up, so I could take extreme measures to eliminate the issue. In my opinion, the wires and connectors for the original headlight circuit are woefully small. I'd expect less than 2 amps to flow through those tiny wires, not the 10 amps that the headlights drew.
Anyway, I'm working on it now. I've burnished the contact pins (rubbing compound, followed by repeated insertion cycles). Cleaned them with solvent and then with electronic tuner spray. Next I'm coating them with Stabilant 22A contact enhancer.
At the same time, I'm re-wiring my front accessory fuseblock to get it's relay trigger from the tail-light instead of the headlights. That way if I DO lose the headlights again, I'll still have fog and driving lights working so I'm not running blind. Thanks for the input.

Hi Redbarber, I have the same bike with the same problem. Do you have a photo of the actual problem connector please brother? Cheers Fozz in Aus ! :cool::cool:
 

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Hope that you do realise that you are requesting a response from an almost 7 year old post. Anyhow, lets see if I can assist you. The connector that you are looking for is located above the radiator. Often the easiest access is to remove the tupperware, tank and airbox. A pix of the connectors can be found in post #14 of Electrical conundrums. Let us know how you get on with your diagnostics or shout if you need further advice.
 

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Hope that you do realise that you are requesting a response from an almost 7 year old post. Anyhow, lets see if I can assist you. The connector that you are looking for is located above the radiator. Often the easiest access is to remove the tupperware, tank and airbox. A pix of the connectors can be found in post #14 of Electrical conundrums. Let us know how you get on with your diagnostics or shout if you need further advice.
Thanks for that brother. My headlights went out randomly, hi & lo. I pulled it down Incl the airbox. I saw the cream, white & green plug but I did not notice the black plug. Obviously, it was there. Anyway, I fiddled around with the plugs for a while, cleaned the starter connectors which were pristine already and undid the dimmer/indicator bar clamp, and inspected it. Pristine cond. Anyway, the next day checked it after more fiddling and it worked. Put it back together. The next day it worked. Day after that it stopped. I did pull the plugs off the existing LED Bulbs and plug the originals into the plugs but no action. I gather it is not earthed in any way to the bulb socket it slots into as the frame is not used for an earth. Very frustrating. It is a 2010 model. I have had 3 V stroms. Never had this problem before. Cheers Fozz from OZ ! :cool:
 

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It starting to sound like the starter switch could be a possible cause of your problem, How the start switch starts the engine and disconnects... Also a connector in the lighting circuit to check on, is the huge connector located the left hand side, looking down the side of the fuel tank. This huge connector gives access to the Hi / Low switch, no headlights and Connector Short/Corrosion.
Thanks for your reply, I checked the starter switch, I checked the big connector on the side, I have brought and installed the eastern Beaver kit to outsmart the problem but still no lights. I have no power at the headlight fuses. I also had a look at the Hi-Lo Switch. Looks like it's in new condition so I doubt that this is the problem. I've had 3 V Stroms. 2 x 650's and 1000. Never had this problem. I've pulled the bike down, put it back together.
 

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Fixed It Gert !
It was the black connector from the starter switch. It was under a little stress from an over active cable tie maniac such as myself. Caused my own problem by the looks of it. Wouldn't be the first time ! Thanks for your help anyway my friend. All the best ! :giggle::giggle:
 

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Congrats. Electrical faults on any motorcycle can be a pain in the butt at the best of times. Well done in locating the problem.
 
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