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Check your headlight status and cause if there was a problem.

  • I had a starter switch problem.

    Votes: 85 55%
  • I had a problem with a large connector under a rubber cover in the left cowling.

    Votes: 28 18%
  • I had a problem with a connector on the radiator shroud.

    Votes: 28 18%
  • I had a problem with the high/low beam switch.

    Votes: 10 6.5%
  • I had a problem but don't know the specific area.

    Votes: 22 14%
81 - 100 of 128 Posts
Luckily, I found no evidence of heating/melting of the connector assembly on my 08 Wee when I finally got around to installing the Eastern Beaver Relay Kit at 23K miles. The EB kit does make the already outstanding Wee headlights noticeably brighter!
 
Luckily, I found no evidence of heating/melting of the connector assembly on my 08 Wee when I finally got around to installing the Eastern Beaver Relay Kit at 23K miles. The EB kit does make the already outstanding Wee headlights noticeably brighter!


Can anybody tell me if the EB headlight relay kit would have prevented my connector terminal from overheating? Also, will adding the kit now "remove" my jumper repair?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Discussion starter · #83 ·
Headlight relays will prevent heat damage to connectors. It's a vaccine though, not a cure. Once a connector is damaged, it needs to be fixed.
 
running into the issue now where every now and then my headlights don't come on until I flick the hi/low switch..I have a relay kit installed..pushing the starter button again doesn't fix it so wondering if anyone has a fix or where I should start looking..it's not a huge deal but I like to fix things lol..is there a stock relay for the headlights? maybe it's getting tired..also will check the multi-connector in the fairing and see if I can locate anything..thanks
 
Discussion starter · #85 ·
There are no stock relays. Is the relay clicking when you turn on the ignition though the headlights are still off? If so, you need to replace the relay. If not, the stock wiring may have became marginal before the relay kit was installed and that needs to be addressed though the relay may still be the culprit.
 
There are no stock relays. Is the relay clicking when you turn on the ignition though the headlights are still off? If so, you need to replace the relay. If not, the stock wiring may have became marginal before the relay kit was installed and that needs to be addressed though the relay may still be the culprit.
Thanks for the reply..when it happens there is no click from the relays..I'm pretty sure they aren't getting the signal to switch..because they click over just fine when the hi/lo switch is toggled..I checked the connector in the left fairing and it's perfectly fine..no scorch marks or any corrosion..maybe this weekend i'll remove the tank and airbox and look at the connector above the radiator..or maybe i'll just live with it..doesn't seem like too big of an issue..
 
running into the issue now where every now and then my headlights don't come on until I flick the hi/low switch..I have a relay kit installed..pushing the starter button again doesn't fix it so wondering if anyone has a fix or where I should start looking..it's not a huge deal but I like to fix things lol..is there a stock relay for the headlights? maybe it's getting tired..also will check the multi-connector in the fairing and see if I can locate anything..thanks
Did you try cleaning the contacts at the starter button and/or hi/low switch?

..Tom
 
Did you try cleaning the contacts at the starter button and/or hi/low switch?

..Tom
I've cleaned the starter button before cus it was having issues where you would have to press it again for the lights to work, but this has now been remedied and doesn't fix the issue I now have..I have not cleaned the hi/lo switch..couldn't see any documentation of it being cleaned so haven't opened it up yet..i'll start there though if that is a possibility..would beat taking the tank and airbox off lol..
 
Discussion starter · #89 ·
The hi/lo switch is rarely a problem. The starter switch contacts lead the list with connector blocks next.
 
Just an update..went after the connector under the gas tank..found many/all connections had that white hard corrosion on them..cleaned them all up as best as I could and re-assembled..have not had the issue with my lights yet (3+weeks), so I assume it was the issue..I used to get the "no lights" once every 2-3 days..
 
Discussion starter · #92 ·
Adding an anti corrosion chemical like ACF-50 or DeOxit will help even more. Relays are still the best idea.
 
No switch problems but have replaced the bulbs.

Installed Eastern Beaver Headlight Relay kit at 19,000 miles. At 41,000 lost the right low beam and replaced. At 44,000 lost the left low beam and replaced.



YMMV
 
Hi!

Bought a ´02 DL1000 few weeks ago and it is not able to light the low beams.
Wires from the fuse box to the headlamps are ok because if I connect 12V directly to the fuse box the lows come on.
I dissembled the plug behind the radiator on the right side. It was corroded a little. Cleaned the pins and reconnected it but no change.
Have browsed throw this forum and in one light related topic where mentioned that if Hi/Lo both are down then it is probably the starter switch and if only lows then the problem is somewhere else.
I have working Hi's and no lows, the issue should be somewhere fuse box <-> starter switch side.
Any suggestion where else to look?

Regards
Martin
 
Discussion starter · #99 ·
There is a second plug behind the radiator in the circuit. The selector switch can be a problem but that is rare.
 
It's one of the pins / sockets in a large connector under the LEFT SIDE cowling plastic. You will be able to see and touch it alongside a smaller connector by removing only the plastic shield in front under the nose. One large and 7(?) smaller pushpins, 2 philips screws. Take off the left side cowling plastic as well for complete access.

You will know which 12V. pin & socket in the multi-pin connector. They will be burned. The plastic around them may be melted a bit. Clean them and they will burn again. It's a reason why folks recommend installing a relay for the headlamps.

I soldered an automotive 2 connector SAE plug on each side. 16 ga. that is heavier than the wimpy 18 ga. it's soldered to. One connection for the burned hot wire, the other for the biggest black/white striped ground wire. Ground to the battery is by wire only, not the frame. Worth the effort to beef it up.

Unpluggable and I haven't lost my low beam since the fix 4 summers ago. High beam is a different wire connector pair and has never failed. Not ON all of the time either.
 
81 - 100 of 128 Posts