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Check your headlight status and cause if there was a problem.

  • I had a starter switch problem.

    Votes: 80 58.8%
  • I had a problem with a large connector under a rubber cover in the left cowling.

    Votes: 22 16.2%
  • I had a problem with a connector on the radiator shroud.

    Votes: 21 15.4%
  • I had a problem with the high/low beam switch.

    Votes: 8 5.9%
  • I had a problem but don't know the specific area.

    Votes: 18 13.2%

  • Total voters
    136
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Added a picture to the attachment (sorry about the bad quality). As I understand correctly the first (black) connector is for right side handlebar switch, second (green) for ignition switch and third (yellow or white) for right side handlebar switch? Disconnected all of them but now burned connectors. There was little corrosion. Used the connector cleaner, scraped the pins a little and replugged them - no change.

Correct me if I'm wrong but if the issue would be on the left side connector then I wouldn't get the lights on when I jump wire the battery to the low beams fuse stands? So the issue should be from the fuse box to the right side handlebar switch(es)? Right side lightswitch only lights up "parking lights".

By the way, is the 2 pins black unplugged connector for OEM handlebar heated grips?

Regards
Martin
 

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Attachment cut down the resolution and it seems I can not edit the previous post. Will add the picture as a link (this is not allowed too :D ).
staff.planet.ee/vstrom/2018/connectors.jpg
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Discussion Starter #103
The low beam power wire at the headlights is black with a blue stripe. The '02 doesn't have a start switch headlight cutout so the problem can't be with the start switch or the connector for the right switch pod. The connectors for the low beam wire are the large connector in the left side of the fairing that connects black/blue with white and the connector for the left handlebar pod that is behind the radiator connects white with white/blue.
 

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Thanks for clarifying.
Took a manual and draw some colored lines - staff.planet.ee/vstrom/2018/diagram.png



It cannot be the green line (Y/W from dimmer switch to lightning switch) because then there wouldn't be any Hi beams.
And it cannot be the read line (B/Bl) because then it wouldn't light up the lows on jumper wire.

So most probably (like you suggested) the issue lies on the blue line (W/Bl to the "white connector" behind the radiator -> W to dimmer switch) or in the dimmer switch itself.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Discussion Starter #105
I can put your pic directly in the post. It's the magic of being a moderator. You have a very unusual bike if your diagram is correct. Vee's having a headlight on/off switch are rare. Being a moderator, I can tell what region you are from and have checked your European location can have that model. We agree on the possible trouble spots and the rest of those reading will have a better idea of what we are talking about.
 

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I can put your pic directly in the post. It's the magic of being a moderator. You have a very unusual bike if your diagram is correct. Vee's having a headlight on/off switch are rare. Being a moderator, I can tell what region you are from and have checked your European location can have that model. We agree on the possible trouble spots and the rest of those reading will have a better idea of what we are talking about.
Thank you for post edit. I'm new to the Vee world. Didn't know there is this kind of differences in different regions V-stroms.
Yes, I live in Europa, Estonia. The bike is originally from the UK and I downloaded manuals (from where I snapshotted the diagram) from UK V-strom forum.
This is how the ignition switch looks like on my bike. Based on the diagram and the switch I had an impression that moving the light switch from right to left it is OFF-Gauge light (if the term. is correct)-ON
Another picture for you to edit :)
staff.planet.ee/vstrom/2017/rutska.jpg
 

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Checked Black Lab Adventures Starter switch maintenance page and indeed, no light switch on that switch case.
I might over think things but I have already ordered H4 Dual Headlight Relay Kit from EB. Based on the diagram above, do I have to modify the relay kit or do I even need it for this kind of setup (no burned connections atm)?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Discussion Starter #108
No modification is needed. The relays take the place of the headlights in the circuit. Once you re-establish the bad connection, the relays will prevent future problems. You still have to find the present problem and fix it though.
 

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Hi!

I'm lost again. Took apart right hand (dimmer) switch and found corrosion on Hi/Low switch.

staff.planet.ee/vstrom/rs/rhsc.jpg

Cleaned it up.

There was a brown wire soldered on top of yellow/white. There was little corrosion on wires, cleaned it up and soldered it again.

staff.planet.ee/vstrom/rs/rhsb.jpg

Understood from wiring diagram that there should be only 3 wires. What is the brown one for?

Anyways, connected those back to the bike and nothing. When jump wire white cable connection with +12V nothing happens with lows. If I jump wire yellow HI's light up.

Getting back to the diagram posted in previous posts.
When I jump wire fuse stands lows come on so read line is ok.
Hi comes on when I switch dimmer switch so green line is ok.
When I jump wire dimmer switch white connection the blue line should be "ok" too but no lights. Don't know where else to look :frown2:
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Discussion Starter #110
Trace the journey power takes to the lights on the wiring diagram. Then check for power in the wires you traced one after the other. There will be a point where the leg you check will have power and the next leg won’t. That will show you where the open circuit is.
 

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Went to the garage today to assemble my TDM. Before leaving I checked the Vee too for the moment. Have made some progress it seems. The low fuse was toasted. Replaced it and there is a change. Turning the ignition on, left low turns on and the right one is barely glowing. When I switch right-hand switch to the first position the gauge bulbs light up. When I switch it to second position nothing changes. When I turn switch off lows still stay on (left normal, right one glowing). When I switch highs on (dimmer switch) then only left lights up. Swapped the bulbs, the same story. At least some progression but still something is wrong. I still wonder why there was brown wire soldered to the white/yellow (HI beams wire).
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Discussion Starter #112
White/yellow is a common wire that is split by the switch into yellow for high beam and white for low beam. The stock brown wire is for the tail light.
 

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I'll add my data to the pool here. 2012 Glee that lost headlights at just over 71k. Checked a lot of things - voltage was fine, but seemed like not enough current was getting through. All connectors looked fine, some slight corrosion on the contacts in the starter switch. Cleaned up, covered with dielectric grease, headlights working again. It should be noted that I switched to H4 LED drop-in bulbs very early on, which draw about a third of the power, if not less, of standard incandescent bulbs. That's one of the reasons I never bothered putting the harness on, but...we'll see how I get on.
 

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My ‘12 DL650 also lost its headlights (low beam lost) at about 7k miles. I found a burnt terminal in a white connector block, located on the left side, on top of the radiator. The connector pins were black and burnt. I had to splice in a jumper.
I guess that I should have installed the Eastern Beaver headlight relay harness sooner...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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My guess is that I probably wouldn't notice with the LEDs. The way those work is that they're either getting enough juice to run at full power...or they don't work at all. It's one of the reasons I reckon I was surprised by them going out...and another reason I'll get no warning that I'm about to drop below the minimum threshold again.

Shipping that harness to the UK is going to be a killer! :/
 
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