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One thing I always do when making these adjustments (before replacing the valve covers and with the spark plugs removed) is to slowly spin the crank over by hand or the starter a few revolutions and bring the timing marks up again to TDC. I recheck my timing and cam indexing and the valve clearance again. Usually its wasted time, sometimes I get 1 tooth off on a cam or a clearance is not what I expected after torquing everthing pack down.

Bad karma to ever rotate an engine counter to the way it normally runs. If you pass a timing mark go around again, do not back up.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
The one in post #8. You're beginning to worry me.:confused:
fwew....wow...i must be losing it! i even ready completely through that thread too! i for some reason thought it was on ADV Rider. my bad...

thanks for keeping my head straight, i guess i've had too much coffee this morning and am getting wound up!

i have plenty of faith in myself and my mechanical ability, or else i wouldn't have started on this project. i have just never dealt with it on a bike engine, or DOHC for that matter. so while the principles of the work are the same, the techniques and parts are different...

i think i need to just slow down and breathe...been a long morning with my head spinning around my wee's engine...
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
One thing I always do when making these adjustments (before replacing the valve covers and with the spark plugs removed) is to slowly spin the crank over by hand or the starter a few revolutions and bring the timing marks up again to TDC. I recheck my timing and cam indexing and the valve clearance again. Usually its wasted time, sometimes I get 1 tooth off on a cam or a clearance is not what I expected after torquing everthing pack down.

Bad karma to ever rotate an engine counter to the way it normally runs. If you pass a timing mark go around again, do not back up.
thanks for the input, something i will probably be doing...i've been known to double and triple check parts...i'm a little OCD when it comes to this kind of stuff...one thing that has been the most valuable for me is that if anything goes wrong or doesn't seem right, then i stop and back up and take a break...clear my head and start again with a fresh view...
 
OCD is a good thing for bike work. I'm a bit OCD and my wife is ADD so we have balance. She gets the creative ideas and I build them.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
OCD is a good thing for bike work. I'm a bit OCD and my wife is ADD so we have balance. She gets the creative ideas and I build them.
sounds like we have something in common! my fiance is the same way...quite ADD, it is a good combination and balance...

thanks again for all the input GW...
 
My wife and I are both OCD. When we leave for a vacation we allow 2 hours to make sure all the doors are locked and the stove is turned off. Then we wonder whether we even did it for the first hour of driving.

We deserve each other...it could be punishment we are due from our past. Yes, all my tools have a spot, I can not go to sleep at night if one is missing.:headbang:
 
One other thing that I would recommend to watch out for is the valve cover bolts closest to the cam chain. They are extremely easy to strip. They are rated for 10 foot pounds and i stripped two of them at 6 foot lbs using a $140 dollar snap-on inch lbs wrench. The cam journal cover is made out of extremely soft aluminum.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
That's the kit I bought. I'm hoping tomorrow that all will go well and I get the valves adjusted. Took me awhile to get everything I need on hand.
Just an FYI. If you got the one I did via the link with part number HCSHIM04 from Powersports Superstore, then you are out of luck.

Got my shim "kit" in. 5 1.75mm shims. That's it.

After a back and forth with them including sending them part numbers and page numbers from the HotCam's catalog, they finally admitted their mistake and supposedly are sending me an RMA label.

So I'm another week out, ordered the proper shim kit (still HCSHIM04) from a different place. Hopefully this place can read.
 
I ordered grip covers from Amazon via Powersports Superstore. They sent lever covers. Maybe they can't read.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Just an FYI. If you got the one I did via the link with part number HCSHIM04 from Powersports Superstore, then you are out of luck.

Got my shim "kit" in. 5 1.75mm shims. That's it.

After a back and forth with them including sending them part numbers and page numbers from the HotCam's catalog, they finally admitted their mistake and supposedly are sending me an RMA label.

So I'm another week out, ordered the proper shim kit (still HCSHIM04) from a different place. Hopefully this place can read.
technically i bought the shim kit from here:

Hot Cams Valve Shim Kits - 7.48mm

I had the shims two days later. Of course they are only about 150 miles from me, but i didn't realize that until after i ordered.

i wish you luck!!
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
update

so i realized i should probably update this thread with where i'm at so far...

well, since i was rotating the engine in the wrong direction :headbang: i decided to re-check the clearances going the proper direction...

well it turns out (after i bought all the tools and shim kit and everything) that all my valves are still in specification...a couple of the exhaust valves were on the tighter side, but still within the spec...so since i needed to get to riding, and lost my carpool for about 6 months, i put her back together and have been riding her for about a week now...

now i know i will catch some grief for not adjusting them while i was that far torn apart...but it wasn't that bad to get it torn down, and i plan on taking it back apart this winter and then adjusting them no matter what...since i know that a couple of them are tight, and that riding this summer they will probably go out of spec...

so rotating the engine the wrong way will change your measurements...all of my were off by being about .02mm tighter then they actually were...so make sure the engine is spun the proper direction!! :fineprint: :mrgreen: ...and it must have to do with the cam position and the cam chains...

and a side note...the new plugs and air filter i feel made a difference...probably mainly the air filter...but she feels like she is running smoother than before and feels like she's got a little more bottom end...
 
I had an intake valve on the edge of the tight side for 33,000 miles. I finally got tired of doing inspections after the third one and got them all between middle and high with no intention of checking again.
 
Not for those weak of heart or mind

So I decided that before I added any more kilometers on my Wee's odometer (39,300 km) I should check the valve clearances. Yes, it's a tad overdue, I admit. I've successfully repaired single cylinder small engines in my previous lives. So, I wasn't daunted with the prospect of working on a 2-cylinder motorcycle engine. How difficult could it be? :mrgreen:

Stripping down the bike to get at the vital parts was tedious, including completely removing the radiator. Hell, it was time for a flush and recharge of coolant anyway. Messy, but not all that difficult (once I figured what had to come off the bike). :thumbup:

Removing the valve covers required careful attention to prevent damage to the delicate gasket - entirely reusable if you don't damage it. Checking the valve clearances was no biggy but I took care to follow the instructions in the service manual (Page 2-8,9) for rotation of the crank and using the proper timing marks. This is very important for getting proper measurement. :fineprint:

My measurements showed that all eight valves were at the very bottom of the allowed clearance ranges. I couldn't risk riding another 1,000 klicks and I didn't want to have to do this job again for a long time. But, I needed to get this job done so I ordered the Hot Cams kit from Rocky Mountain which arrived in five days which is very good cross-border service (FedEx). :hurray:

When the time came to remove the cam journals and cams to get at the tappets I knew I was going to be severely challenged. In order to release even one cam from the cam chain it was necessary to release ALL of the tension provided by the cam chain tensioner. Following the advice of NTM and Black Lab I removed only the tensioner bolt (not the complete body - which could NOT have been done on an ABS equipped Wee anyway without pulling the engine). Front tensioner came out easily enough but the rear one required a combo of extenders on a ratchet wrench attacking from the rear wheel area. It was necessary to completely remove the rear wheel to even see the tensioner body. :jawdrop:

I made a big mistake. :yikes: I chose to start on the rear cylinder because I thought it would be the easier one to work on. After being confounded with the results and freaking out when, while turning the crank, I saw that the chain was skipping over the cam sprockets because I had not yet replaced the tensioner bolt. I was too upset to do anymore work that day so I left it all there in the shop and started again the next day.

This time I resolved to read ALL of the relevant pages in the manual and marked up the really essential points with a hi-liter like a cramming college kid. Reason prevailed and I FINALLY understood the intricacies of crank and cam lobe positions and why you have to start with the front cylinder. Those of you who are planning to do this job must read manual pages 3-99 through 3-106. This is required reading. :fineprint:

At this point the project began to take its toll on my patience. I found it was very difficult to replace the tensioner release bolts into their respective bodies because there is precious little room for the hands of grown man to manouver. The rear one in particular. There is a lot of extra gear and plumbing in this area for the ABS system. Only when I detached the rear shock at the top and dropped the swingarm a tad (it only dropped a half inch before bottoming) did I finally get enough room to attack the tensioner body. Because of the angle of the body it proved extremely tiresome getting the bolt to catch the first threads. This was by far the most difficult part of the whole job. :furious:

I'm happy with the results. No pistons crashed into the valves. All the clearances are now in the mid-to-upper numbers in the ranges. I figure it will be a while before I will need to check again. But, given all the drama that this project created, I'm not sure I EVER want to do a valve adjustment on my ABS Wee again. That will be done at my local dealer - if I can afford to pay them a princely sum. :jawdrop:

Many thanks to NTM, Black Lab, Greywolf and others on this forum who provided useful tips and suggestions. :thumbup:
 
Baldy, I am over 50K and have no idea of if or when the P/O checked or adjusted the valves. Mine is also an ABS and I am not looking forward to it especially since I have never done a shim type valve adjustment before.
 
Read all the instructions in the manual and the threads here and at vstrom.info first. E.G., reading first would have prevented the error of starting with the rear cylinder. I was able to handle the rear cam chain tensioner by taking off the rear caliper and moving the brake line an its keeper out of the way. Then a couple of ratchet extensions and a wobble joint worked fine.
 
Don'tbe afraid of it

Baldy, I am over 50K and have no idea of if or when the P/O checked or adjusted the valves. Mine is also an ABS and I am not looking forward to it especially since I have never done a shim type valve adjustment before.
I was in exactly the same boat as you, with a new-to-me 2007ABS Wee with 40k miles on it. I read a lot, worried a lot, but the job went smoothly. Yes, it is tedious.

I used the shop manual, some web posts (thanks Black Lab), and the zip tie trick (chain to cam sprocket).

GW's description of accessing the rear tensioner bolt is correct.
 
Yes - do what Greywolf says

There is no way you should be doing this job without following the very important and precise steps articulated in the Suzuki Repair Manual.

If you have done your homework and conclude that you understand the process then you can do this job.

The Repair Manual is your friend. Follow it and you won't go wrong. Do not "cheap out". It is also necessary to have a good inventory of metric tools. You will need every last one for a job of this complexity.

And, as Greywolf says, follow this and the VSRI forums sections which provide immensely useful information and testimonials from owners/members who have already done this work.

Like a good scout - BE PREPARED before you tackle this or ANY work on the inside of your Wee, Glee, Vee or Vee2. There are really no shortcuts. :thumbup:
 
Before loosening the timing chain and taking the cams out, roll the engine with the wrench, stop at the specified marks on the flywheel, and look at the cams and timing sprocket for that cylinder. You'll see the cams on on the base circle with a gap between the cam and the bucket. You'll see markings on the camshafts' timing sprockets. Photograph these markings if you'd like. These are the positions you'll need when reassembling.

No problem removing and reinstalling the rear tensioner bolt. Use a very long extension and a flex socket with a wrap of tape around it so it doesn't flex too much. Releasing the tension is too easy once you see what's happening. It is a simple pawl that you push down on the short end with a long thin screwdriver and raise the long locking end which is the pawl.

With everything this far apart, it is a good time to get anything else under there. Easy to put in iridium spark plugs that will be good for the next 50,000 to 100,000 miles. Good time to change the air filter if needed.

Be sure the valve cover gasket is in its groove when replacing. A very thin smear of RTV silicone rubber gasket compound on the half-moon sections is a good sealer. More sealant is not better. Double check that the gasket is in the groove when the valve cover goes on. When almost fully reassembled, leave the gas tank up on the prop, connect the fuel hoses, and run the engine for a minute. Confirm no oil leak past the gasket.
 
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