Yes, the cam tensioner had to be loosened (actually, the bolt removed) so there was slack to remove and replace the cams. I had tried just backing the tensioner off a bit but, perhaps, because of my lack of skill, I still wasn't able to get enough slack (even with the pawl released) so, I removed the bolt entirely. In retrospect I would not completely remove the tensioner bolt, especially since I had a devil of a time getting the (rear) bolt screwed back into the housing.

Nothing serves better than real hands-on experience. :yesnod:

 

Baldy, I had a fear of the chain coming off the lower sprocket too which is why I kept tension on the chain the whole time I removed the Exhaust cam & sprocket. And, is not marking the chain on a link down onto each cam sprocket exactly the same as counting links or looking at the stamped marks? So when installing the cam later all I had to do was line the mark on the chain to the mark on the cam sprocket. The problem I had with the arrows and numbers on the cam sprocket was that they do not reference themselves to the chain itself clearly like a mark does.

So if it did slip a tooth off the lower sprocket my Sharpie marks would not line up would they?

If I am missing something, lay it on me. This is how I marked both cam sprockets before I loosened any bolt/nut....chain is in red and my marks are blue:

Sorry...it is a crude drawing, but you get the idea eh?

 

If a chain slips on the lower sprocket, any mark on the chain will be wrong.

 

Ditto. :yesnod:

That is why I had to abandon the use of Sharpie marks. My original plan was to use a bungie cord to hold the chain tight but I had nothing overhead to attach it to except the ceiling of my garage. I decided that was just too ridiculous. I had a few hicups along the way (slipping) so I decided to do a proper study of the service manual. Then, once I completely understood the process, the job seemed pretty straight forward after that. But, making sure there were 16 roller pins between the cam sprocket markings is crucial to getting the timing phases of the cams correct. That is what I concentrated on - it sometimes took me three or four attempts since there was so little slack in the chain. I had to sort off hook the sprockets to the chain and back-spin it into the journal - then count pins again. :headbang:

There is a write-up on this forum showing the use of a cable-tie (on the intake cam sprocket wheel, iirc) that seemed to work out well for some owners. It still doesn't make it any easier to get both cams aligned (16 roller pins apart). It just keeps one side of the cam chain locked in position while removing the other cam. Once a cam is removed the whole chain goes slack and it might still slip off the bottom driver sprocket. :yikes:

So, in my case, I couldn't trust my marks to be correct. Read and understand the instructions in the Manual. Take your time and be patient. It will work out fine in the end. :hurray:

 

I think I started the cable tie thing. I've never had the chain slip on the lower sprocket. The chain guide has always kept it in place for me. There is no substitute for checking the crankshaft and cam gear markings along with counting links between cam gears though.

 

Ok, what you say makes sense and thanks for pointing this out. If I do ever drop the chain off the lower sprocket I will know how to get everything back in line. At least by Sharpie marking the sprockets I will know if that had happened. In the future when I am finished I will count rollers to confirm position.

I don't have a shop manual yet, so all of my [cough]expertise[cough] comes from my own experience and what I read here. I do find that the written procedure is always much more complicated than actually doing the job so I tend to dive in to save my pea brain from stripping a gear and filling up the shop with smoke.