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Discussion Starter #1
Okay so I've checked my valve clearances. Measurements are in mm for all.

They are as follows:
Front Cylinder
Intake
Right side 0.12
Left side 0.10
Exhaust
Right side 0.22
Left side 0.19

Rear cylinder
Intake
Both are 0.12
Exhaust
Ride side 0.18
Left side 0.22

It seems that I've got two exhaust valves out of spec. Should I take them apart per manual and bring into spec? Should I adjust the others at all?

Thanks for any input.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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They do need to be brought into spec. Since you have to release both cam chains anyway, I'd adjust everything to somewhere from the middle to the wide end of the spec as clearances only close up after break in.
 

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If you gotta open it up for two, may as well bring them all to middle of spec IMO.

Ooops, as I was typing I see GreyWolf already responded.... he's someone to listen to.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
They do need to be brought into spec. Since you have to release both cam chains anyway, I'd adjust everything to somewhere from the middle to the wide end of the spec as clearances only close up after break in.
That's what I was afraid you'd say, but your the person I was hoping would answer this as well! Thanks for the input. Looks like I need to pull them apart and and start to measure shims to order them. Aren't they about $7 a shim?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Many dealers will do a swap of your shim for the size you need - no charge. Call around to local dealers and see if one in your area works that way. That's how I exchanged mine.
Good to know. I'll have to call around some of the shops.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
This might sound like a dumb question, but when I'm rotating the engine for TDC alignment, which direction should I be turning it? The manual says to turn it in the rotation of the engine, which I assume is "lefty"? I'll be honest and admit I was turning slowly in both direction just trying to find my marks. I don't see how it would hurt the engine? Especially with all 4 plugs out, it spun rather effortlessly.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Discussion Starter #9
It's counter clockwise. Rotating the rear tire with the bike in gear would have demonstrated that. Performed Valve Job w/many pictures for 650(warning 56k) may be helpful. Black Lab doesn't have his excellent How-To up on his site yet.
you know as soon as i read this felt dumb :headbang:

that is the easiest way to know how to do it, and i don't know why i didn't think about it...i guess it was almost too easy...there isn't any harm done by turning it either direction is there?

just a clarification point, my bike have 14K miles on it, and your saying to adjust all valves to be closer to the middle and/or looser end of the spec? it makes sense to me to do it then i should be good to go for quite a while, and it will only make sense since I've got it this far apart already...

i have the service manual and have been using it for all of this work and so far so good, but i want to know personal opinion on the valve adjustments? is it a pain? is "easy" or is it just time consuming?

thanks again GW, your help and wisdom makes owning a strom that much better!
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I went through three inspections with some close to minimum and only had one exhaust move closer by one gauge leaf in that time. I got tired of it and moved the necessary clearances so all were in the middle to wide end of the spec. I don't plan on going in again. The Brits would call it a fiddly job.

No part of it is particularly difficult but there are a lot of things to be careful about. Work slowly and double check as you go. I put the final camshaft back on and was about to turn the engine by hand to re-check clearances when I saw a bucket on the workbench. Turning the engine without a bucket would have damaged a very expensive part. I was tired near the end of the job and should have taken a break. I still find it hard to believe I put the cam back in without a bucket under it.

Here's a hint that helped me. Before taking out a camshaft, I zip tied the cam chain to the other camshaft to keep it in proper register.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I went through three inspections with some close to minimum and only had one exhaust move closer by one gauge leaf in that time. I got tired of it and moved the necessary clearances so all were in the middle to wide end of the spec. I don't plan on going in again. The Brits would call it a fiddly job.

No part of it is particularly difficult but there are a lot of things to be careful about. Work slowly and double check as you go. I put the final camshaft back on and was about to turn the engine by hand to re-check clearances when I saw a bucket on the workbench. Turning the engine without a bucket would have damaged a very expensive part. I was tired near the end of the job and should have taken a break. I still find it hard to believe I put the cam back in without a bucket under it.
thanks for that helpful information...i've been taken the whole process slow so far as it's been awhile since i've torn into an engine like this...

sorry for asking more questions but i have a couple more...

it seems that to remove all the cams and buckets at the same time will obviously require me to do the rear, then rotate engine, then do the front? so it will obviously rotate my cam chains, it seems that if i had a shim kit on hand i would be able to take care of one cylinder at a time and not have to rotate the engine and would then make it easier to get the cams back in the right location?

is there a spot where all the cams on the engine are closed at the same time? then i wouldn't have to rotate the engine?

i plan on using a marker to mark up the chain and cams anyways for reference...

it just stinks that the shim kit is soo spendy for what it is? $72 for a full shim kit...i am on a budget and it'd be nice to be able to trade or make a deal with a MC shop around here...
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Do the front first. That is important. The rear position is keyed off the front being done. Make sure the marks on the rear cam sprocket line up properly with the surface of the head. Don't vary the procedure in the manual or invent short cuts. The only short cut that works is Whistler's method of releasing the cam chain tensioners. Don't turn the engine backwards. That can throw the timing off.

Get the Hot Cams shim refill kit HC-7150175 Includes 5 of each size -1.50, 1.55, 1.60, 1.65, 1.70, 1.75mm Shims

They will probably be the only sizes you need, include more of those sizes than the full kit, and only cost half the full kit price.

The marker is the typical solution but it's easy to wipe the mark off the oily surface. With a zip tie, it's a sure connection and the chain will not come off and have to be reset on the sprocket.



 

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The numbers you see on the shims after you get them out are their thickness in mm. With your measurements and the numbers on the present shims, you'll know which replacement shims you'll need. Contact your local shop in advance about swapping shims with them. One local shop charges $6 each to swap, not a bad deal if only one or two are needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Don't turn the engine backwards. That can throw the timing off.

Get the Hot Cams shim refill kit HC-7150175 Includes 5 of each size -1.50, 1.55, 1.60, 1.65, 1.70, 1.75mm Shims
don't turn the engine backwards at all? or don't do it when/in between doing the valve adjustments? depending on the case, i might go back and re-check the clearances just to be sure and only turn the engine in the proper direction...although i don't think it will change my results, i just want to check and make sure my baseline is correct for the gap

thanks for the shim refill kit idea! those are the numbers i was hoping for!!
 

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don't turn the engine backwards at all? or don't do it when/in between doing the valve adjustments? depending on the case, i might go back and re-check the clearances just to be sure and only turn the engine in the proper direction...although i don't think it will change my results, i just want to check and make sure my baseline is correct for the gap

thanks for the shim refill kit idea! those are the numbers i was hoping for!!
Dude, you're a braver man than me... I wouldn't tackle that job unless I saw it done in person from someone experienced at doing it... Just be careful... Glad I am not the one who will thumb that starter after you get all this put back together...

Double, triple check... good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Dude, you're a braver man than me... I wouldn't tackle that job unless I saw it done in person from someone experienced at doing it... Just be careful... Glad I am not the one who will thumb that starter after you get all this put back together...

Double, triple check... good luck
thanks for the inspiration! i used to rebuild engines and such back about 10 years ago, but they were all V8's from the 70's...very simple...

i've also got my service manual that i've read through time and time again before i've even put a wrench on that part!!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Get the Hot Cams shim refill kit HC-7150175 Includes 5 of each size -1.50, 1.55, 1.60, 1.65, 1.70, 1.75mm Shims


just ordered this kit...$46 shipped, and i think it will be worth the hassle for me, as the closest MC shops are about 15+ miles away...
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Don't turn the engine backwards at all. If you did the measurements that way, check them again. If you turned the engine over a couple of times before measuring, you are probably okay. If not, do that and check your measurements. Remember I said the process was fiddly. Follow the procedures exactly. From the manual,

To turn the crankshaft for clearance checking, be sure to use a
17-mm wrench, and rotate in the normal running direction.

The VSRI link has a more hands on feel than the manual so is very valuable. Read the entire thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Don't turn the engine backwards at all. If you did the measurements that way, check them again. If you turned the engine over a couple of times before measuring, you are probably okay. If not, do that and check your measurements. Remember I said the process was fiddly. Follow the procedures exactly. From the manual,

To turn the crankshaft for clearance checking, be sure to use a
17-mm wrench, and rotate in the normal running direction.

The VSRI link has a more hands on feel than the manual so is very valuable. Read the entire thread.
thanks again GW. I read that in the part of the manual, but I guess my mind was focused on the valves more than engine rotation.

what VSRI link are you referring to?
 

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