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Windscreen and Buffeting 2012+ DL650 - Appendix 1 - Custom Deflectors

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183K views 194 replies 104 participants last post by  Trevd  
#1 · (Edited)
Apologies up front if this 'Appendix' idea goes against the 'the only one' theme of the main Windscreen and Buffeting thread... I'd be happy to move this topic into that thread but it is getting a bit long... so didn't want to clog it up. Happy to rename this if inappropriate too.

Following on from my initial post here.


Herewith my guide to making your own Air Flares for the Glee:


Disclaimer - this is free advice and probably worth every penny. Please don't melt your bike and/or create something that distracts you and makes you fall off it at speed (or stationary for that matter!)... or anything like that. Oh... and please don't blame me if something goes wrong. I'm quite brave around the workshop although with no appropriate training. I've learned by trial and error and might be underestimating how easy I thought this was, or what a risk I took pressing (reasonably) hot Perspex to the plastic fairing of my prized Glee. I've never worked with Perspex until now... if that helps... but I've used a jigsaw and drill before. I wear eye protection these days too :thumbup: and so far so good. No Glee was hurt in the making of this article and there was no blood, burns or blindness suffered afterward by anyone involved or standing nearby. :fineprint:

WARNING: The design isn't perfect and you will need to somehow protect the plastics from being scratched when riding and the air pushes the Air Flares inwards toward the fairing. I'm still trying to figure out a permanent solution (ideas welcome!) but for now I'm using rubber sticker discs normally used under furniture. Glass protector buttons also work, and with one prototype I stuck foam rubber all along the edges, which really protects everything... but doesn't look too good.


What you'll need:

- Longer bolts than the ones in the fairing. I used ones about 50mm / 2" long. There is a limit to the length. If you feel around inside the fairing you'll realise there's something metal there that will eventually get in the way of the bolt if it's too long.

- Paper or cardboard to create a template.

- An A4 (roughly) sized sheet of Perspex or suitable material - I got mine from a signage company - just walked in and asked for an off-cut... cost - $0

- Suitable saw to cut out the shape

- Sandpaper to smooth things around the edges

- Plumbers torch or heat gun or some such thing with which to heat up the Perspex so that you can bend it. Lots of 'how to' stuff on YouTube... it surprised me how easy it is if you have a torch. I wouldn't be surprised if you could do it with a candle and some patience.

- Drill to make mounting holes. I used about a 6mm wood drill bit (I wanted the hole to be larger than the bolt to avoid stressing the Perspex).

- Rubber spacers / washers. I used a thick, hard rubber tap washer, surrounded by soft (old bicycle inner tube) cut outs, plus a metal washer on the outside.

- Something to protect the fairing from the Air Flare rubbing against it. As per warning above.

- A sip of good ale really helps now and then :yesnod:


Step 1:
Start out with this shape

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Step 2:
Transfer this shape to your choice of material.

I tried with a thinner Perspex first, then opted to go with this 3mm stuff. There are pros and cons to the choice, around flexibility, durability, etc. My bike is garaged day and night and mostly on tarmac. They are pretty easy to make once you get the hang of it... so try different thicknesses and see what works best for you. I'm not sure if this methods works on anything other than Perspex though. So please do some research on how to bend other materials before simply aiming a flame at it.

Tip: Try leaving the protective film on to prevent scratching until you use the heat gun... then it needs to be off.

Tip: Make a few extra templates. Once you've bent them you'll realise how impossible it is to copy them again ;)

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Step 3:
Cut them out with a metal hacksaw / blade (or better if you know how). My jigsaw on medium speed worked OK.

Cut slowly, and watch out for heat buildup. The Perspex will likely melt here and there along your cuts. Sometimes it re-connects to the other half and bonds so strongly you have to cut it again :headbang:

Try as far as possible to keep the material steady and avoid too much vibration/flexing. Just when you think you've finished with that last little bit to go, it might crack and you've got to start again :jawdrop:

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Step 4:
Sand down edges by hand or with a sander. The finer the paper the cleaner you'll get the edges apparently. I just used standard '60' gauge sandpaper that came with my sander.

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Step 5:
Remove fairing bolt and store somewhere safe. You'll need to use a longer one if you're going to use enough rubber spacers to reduce vibration and permit some flexibility. See 'What you'll need' above.

Step 6:
Make sure you know where you want to position your Air Flare. I put these stickers on to show what I was lining things up with to try make something that kinda fits the lines of the fairing.

Hmmm... seems I've reach my limit of file attachments. Follow on post coming up!
 

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#176 · (Edited)
Hi all,

re bad Helmet buffeting ….

This is my 1st post, so hopefully it works...

In Dec last year, 2019, I bought a 2016 V Strom 650.
Abosolutly love the bike BUT as with so many others, the wind buffeting my helmet was really bad. Anything over 80kmh wasn't good.

After reading many threads from many sites, i decided to see what i could do about it.

- Firstly I bought the Givi Airflow screen to replace the original. I tried the Givi adjustable screen at different heights. I tried the main fixed screen at the 3 different height settings where it mounts to the bike.
It helped a lot with keeping the wind off me and was a lot quieter. It did stop a little of the buffeting but not a lot. Was great to ride with visor open though.

- 2nd I replaced the stock mirrors with the Aprilia type from Ebay. It was a little quieter but didn't do anything to resolve helmet buffeting at all. I even took the mirrors off completely just to try out, didn't make any difference for me.

-3rd - i tried a different helmet. I have a shark Skawl 2 and tried my sons MT Thunder 3 ... the MT was actually smoother but still getting buffeting.

- 4th. I read about the Augustus wind deflectors. So i made a set up but instead of the Augustus design, i went with this pattern and design that Cineris had put up in post #153.

Winglets Template.jpg



It helped heaps. I was very surprised how much it worked.

It still wasn't a 100% but it was certainly so much better. # So to me , the issue must be in this area mostly.

Next step. I took those "winglets" off, re-heated them with heat gun to re-mould but now rather than just being on a slight angle, which deflects air around, i made them at 90 degrees to the bike.

So rather than deflect air AROUND the deflector on an angle, it was pushing air DOWN and OUT from the bike completely.

Took bike for a ride, even better again !. So this area is the issue for sure.

So next, i added a bit to the original design so that the winglet was longer. Took more air away from further up, re-made a set of the new version tried again.

Wow, - 100% ! I have no helmet buffeting at all, even at 130km/h. ( i even tried my Shark helmet again and was still ok )

To Do :

I went to BCF, ( a boating accessories place) and bought the black plastic box that the starting battery goes into , ie sturdy black plastic that can withstand the elements,


yet am able to easily cut with tin snips and mould using a heat gun.

I cut the battery box up and then traced the design onto it. Made 2 exactly the same and using tin snips cut them out.


Used a file and smoothed up some rough edges etc.

I drilled the holes where the mounting bolt goes through. (still used the original mounting bolt, no need for longer bolt)

I did fit a small rubber 'O' ring washer with the mounting bolt, between the winglet and the bike fairing, just stops plastic to plastic contact.


Made sure the winglet fitted ok and i could easily bolt on.


Took off again and laid it on a piece of timber.

I got the heat gun out, gently and evenly, heated the 'entire' winglet, not too hot or the plastic will start to blister but hot enough that the plastic was malleable.

Once really hot, with gloves on, i attached to the bike with the rubber o ring spacer installed.

Once fitted to bike in correct position, i then moulded, bent out the soft malleable plastic wing section, 90 degrees out, whilst pushing in firmly against the bike so it moulded into shape against the bike.

I then got my girlfriend to use her hair dryer on cold setting and start cooling the deflector whilst i held it in position.

When sufficiently cooled to hold the shape, i removed , put under cold water.

Then attached to the bike. The bonus is, if u get it wrong, simply re heat and do it again.


Once completed, u can remove it, u can trim with the snips, or a file it and just get it exactly right, easy to work with.


Being black, can hardly even notice it on the bike.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------

So u need a battery box / good pair Wiss type tin snips / heat gun / hair dryer with cool function / a rubber o ring / bastard file / a drill with suitable drill bit / good leather gloves... thats it

I have attached pics showing -

- original winglet design, on a slight angle where the air is deflected " around " it .

- a pic showing where i re heated the original design and then made it 90 degrees, so air was pushed DOWN and AWAY..

- a pic showing the new improved version, ie longer version, 90 degrees out and how it deflects the air DOWN and AWAY from the bike.


- also a pic showing the pattern i used and a measurements so if you print out and it doesn't print to size, you can expand or shrink until u get same measurements.


Its easy to do, cost is a battery box....


Hopefully this shared info will help others out there enjoy their V strom even more.


cheers Rod ps Im 5' 9" and this was all about helmet buffeting . I still get general buffeting but that's life with a screen...
 

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#178 ·
Welp, I messaged Mimo256 about getting a set of his Augustus deflectors, but to no avail. It seems he's out of the game. I used PerazziMx14's template, modified it to my liking, and attempted fabrication myself. I bought a sheet of .118 ABS plastic (here on Amazon), and used some unused hardware from some TV mounting brackets.

The template I ended up with, to the cut product... The cut on the left was the second cut. The first cut on the right was made from a jigsaw and a warrior (clean wood scroll) blade.. It melted the ABS which then fused back together. The second cut on the left was from a Bostitch wood scrolling blade, worked way better, and made cutting a lot easier. I then took of the excess with a hasp, and used a metal file to finish the edges.

280356


I then picked a spot to drill, and attached them to the bike. Using a heat gun on low, and some trial and error I bent and shaped them to where I thought they'd work best, added some door edge guard moulding, and voila. I hope they work well and hold up, time will tell.

280358

280359

280360
280361


Fabrication wasn't too hard, especially after I switched jigsaw blades. If you are looking to make your own, go for it! Good luck. ;)(y)
 
#181 ·
Mine is a 2012 650 and I was able to eliminate buffeting and my head is in mostly still air.

Changed mirrors to the tear drop shaped Ducati? Test drop shaped Mirrors...eliminated 50% of buffeting.

added a parabellum tall windscreen topped with an MRA X Creen wing.... eliminated the remaining buffeting and wind hitting my on the sides/top of my helmet.

made the bike 200% more enjoyable on the highway and longer trips.
 
#187 ·
So what is the HUGEST windscreen for this thing? I have a PUIG but I got the dark smoke and I should have got a clear one instead.

I'm getting old and don't want a gold wing yet. Hearing loss stinks. :(

If I wanted to black it out, tape it from the inside to maybe half way up instead of light smoke etc...
 
#193 ·
I had some plastic laying around and thought I'd jump on the deflector train.

I can report that there is a noticeable improvement. It's not creating some kind of Goldwing style ride or anything, but compared to before, I certainly think it's a step in the right direction.

Makes me want to play with other shapes and maybe even try some deflectors down my my knees, mounted on the crash bars. I have seen riders exploring the idea that buffeting may be related (in part) to air coming up from below meeting up with air coming from above (over the windscreen)

You will also notice an after market "Beak" and I am wondering if that has actually helped a bit. Unfortunately I have not done an isolated experiment. I have not been at freeway speeds with one addition on and then the other. But last time I was going fast (with the side deflectors & the beak), I could swear things up near my helmet seemed better! I'm 6' 3"
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