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Windscreen and Buffeting 2012+ DL650 - Appendix 1 - Custom Deflectors

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183K views 194 replies 104 participants last post by  Trevd  
#1 · (Edited)
Apologies up front if this 'Appendix' idea goes against the 'the only one' theme of the main Windscreen and Buffeting thread... I'd be happy to move this topic into that thread but it is getting a bit long... so didn't want to clog it up. Happy to rename this if inappropriate too.

Following on from my initial post here.


Herewith my guide to making your own Air Flares for the Glee:


Disclaimer - this is free advice and probably worth every penny. Please don't melt your bike and/or create something that distracts you and makes you fall off it at speed (or stationary for that matter!)... or anything like that. Oh... and please don't blame me if something goes wrong. I'm quite brave around the workshop although with no appropriate training. I've learned by trial and error and might be underestimating how easy I thought this was, or what a risk I took pressing (reasonably) hot Perspex to the plastic fairing of my prized Glee. I've never worked with Perspex until now... if that helps... but I've used a jigsaw and drill before. I wear eye protection these days too :thumbup: and so far so good. No Glee was hurt in the making of this article and there was no blood, burns or blindness suffered afterward by anyone involved or standing nearby. :fineprint:

WARNING: The design isn't perfect and you will need to somehow protect the plastics from being scratched when riding and the air pushes the Air Flares inwards toward the fairing. I'm still trying to figure out a permanent solution (ideas welcome!) but for now I'm using rubber sticker discs normally used under furniture. Glass protector buttons also work, and with one prototype I stuck foam rubber all along the edges, which really protects everything... but doesn't look too good.


What you'll need:

- Longer bolts than the ones in the fairing. I used ones about 50mm / 2" long. There is a limit to the length. If you feel around inside the fairing you'll realise there's something metal there that will eventually get in the way of the bolt if it's too long.

- Paper or cardboard to create a template.

- An A4 (roughly) sized sheet of Perspex or suitable material - I got mine from a signage company - just walked in and asked for an off-cut... cost - $0

- Suitable saw to cut out the shape

- Sandpaper to smooth things around the edges

- Plumbers torch or heat gun or some such thing with which to heat up the Perspex so that you can bend it. Lots of 'how to' stuff on YouTube... it surprised me how easy it is if you have a torch. I wouldn't be surprised if you could do it with a candle and some patience.

- Drill to make mounting holes. I used about a 6mm wood drill bit (I wanted the hole to be larger than the bolt to avoid stressing the Perspex).

- Rubber spacers / washers. I used a thick, hard rubber tap washer, surrounded by soft (old bicycle inner tube) cut outs, plus a metal washer on the outside.

- Something to protect the fairing from the Air Flare rubbing against it. As per warning above.

- A sip of good ale really helps now and then :yesnod:


Step 1:
Start out with this shape

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Step 2:
Transfer this shape to your choice of material.

I tried with a thinner Perspex first, then opted to go with this 3mm stuff. There are pros and cons to the choice, around flexibility, durability, etc. My bike is garaged day and night and mostly on tarmac. They are pretty easy to make once you get the hang of it... so try different thicknesses and see what works best for you. I'm not sure if this methods works on anything other than Perspex though. So please do some research on how to bend other materials before simply aiming a flame at it.

Tip: Try leaving the protective film on to prevent scratching until you use the heat gun... then it needs to be off.

Tip: Make a few extra templates. Once you've bent them you'll realise how impossible it is to copy them again ;)

Image



Step 3:
Cut them out with a metal hacksaw / blade (or better if you know how). My jigsaw on medium speed worked OK.

Cut slowly, and watch out for heat buildup. The Perspex will likely melt here and there along your cuts. Sometimes it re-connects to the other half and bonds so strongly you have to cut it again :headbang:

Try as far as possible to keep the material steady and avoid too much vibration/flexing. Just when you think you've finished with that last little bit to go, it might crack and you've got to start again :jawdrop:

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Step 4:
Sand down edges by hand or with a sander. The finer the paper the cleaner you'll get the edges apparently. I just used standard '60' gauge sandpaper that came with my sander.

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Step 5:
Remove fairing bolt and store somewhere safe. You'll need to use a longer one if you're going to use enough rubber spacers to reduce vibration and permit some flexibility. See 'What you'll need' above.

Step 6:
Make sure you know where you want to position your Air Flare. I put these stickers on to show what I was lining things up with to try make something that kinda fits the lines of the fairing.

Hmmm... seems I've reach my limit of file attachments. Follow on post coming up!
 

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#144 ·
I've been running a Givi AF and Rick's mirror extenders for a couple of years and they helped smooth out the air flow to what I felt was an acceptable level. I then proceeded to put almost 20k traveling miles on my bike and just made peace with the remaining turbulence. The curiosity finally overwhelmed me and I finally installed a set of Augustus Deflectors on the bike this week and commuted to work with them. I can honestly say that I wish I had these on the bike before my ride to Alaska! It was another incremental step in making the best all-around motorcycle I've owned even better.
 
#145 ·
I'm still not satisfied with what I've added but I'll probably have to get a different windscreen. I have the Augustus air deflectors and the mirror extenders but still get a good amount of air buffeting. I'm 6' and have a redone Rick Meyer seat that sets me up higher than my Cee Bailey can handle so that'll be my next buy I would guess.
 
#150 ·
I didn't notice any discernable difference with mine. If anything, one would think it might slightly improve fuel economy, as wind that would just be slamming into you or the bike is being more gently moved out of the way, ie, more aeordynamic. Could it have been you were just traveling faster on average? There is a huge difference in MPG just between 60 and 75 mph. You'll also take a big hit with hills and headwinds.
 
#151 ·
My Augustus deflectors worked so well on my 2012 that I added them to my 2013 as well. My wife says she now has no buffeting at highway speeds anymore (but still hates the highway). VERY pleased with the results and they look cool too :)
 
#153 · (Edited)
I just made myself a set of these this past weekend, and MAN does it make a difference!! No more cold wind being funneled right to my torso, now more buffeting around my belly at speed. I perhaps didn't do the best job at cutting and sanding them, so I'm going to end up painting them black to make them look a bit better than they currently do, but as far as being functional, they're fantastic!

I used 2mm polycarbonate, and I wish I had went with 3mm. I ended up having to make an extra because the first one shattered when I went to drill it. Finally "drilled" it with a Dremel and a conical sander, and that worked well. I had to drill a 5/16" hole, because I went with rubber grommets instead of washers, to fully isolate the plastic from the bolts. I'll post pictures after I get them painted.

Also, I used a heat gun to heat the plastic for bending, and I found that 550ËšF is perfect for heating it enough to be flexible without bubbling/melting the plastic.

One thing I wanted to share was the template I made. I took M@rk's picture that he posted of his template, threw it into a vector image editor, and made a PDF with a perfectly sized (15cm wide) template.

The PDF is too big to attach, so here's a Google Drive link to it: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8SbM4d7QGg5aWRpUER0ZkRLMUU

Also, I've attached a PNG version if you prefer, just be sure to print it out at 15cm wide for correct sizing.
EDIT: I just realized that ST compressed the image when I attached it, so it is a lot smaller than I intended it to be. You can still print and use it if you prefer, but be warned that if you print it at the correct size, it will become very pixelated.

Hope this helps someone out. Cheers!
 

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#157 ·
#156 ·
No new wind control threads are allowed as there would be too many to follow. This seemed to be the most appropriate sticky for a wind deflector.
 
#167 ·
Wind Deflectors my way

After about 3 different variants I have settled on a final design. Attached is a template if you choose to try and roll your own......

1. Roughly cut out patterns
2. Spray one side of pattern with 3M super 77 aerosol glue
3. Apply pattern to Acrylic sheet (Note: leave protective static cling on Acrylic, apply pattern on top of protective coating)
4. Rough cut around template with a rotary tool like a Dremel
5. Carefully sand (I have a 1" upright belt sander) away material until you reach the template outline
6. Hand sand the edges and drill hole
7. Peel off template and protecting coating
8. Heat and bend mounting offset
9. Heat and bend concave radius

I used 1/8" Acrylic sheeting and a heat gun to form.
 

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#168 ·
Finally fixed the buffeting and noise issues. I bought the V-Stream touring windscreen for my 2012 dl650a, which got rid of about 70% of buffeting and noise from the wind. I am able to see over the top by about 2". I saw a used MRA touring auxiliary screen on Ebay, won the bidding, and added it to the top of the V-Stream. That took care of the buffeting at the top of my helmet, adding a good 3-4" of calm air (I am 6'3"). Next, I bought on Ebay a couple of add-on windscreens/spoilers that are supposed to clamp onto the top of the existing Suzuki screen, but I added them to the lower sides of the V-Stream. They were about $20. a piece, and are adjustable. They won't work well on the stock windscreen as the clamp is very large and the screen has creases which distorts the view. I already had the black plastic side Augustus winglets and mirror extenders. I drove the 650 up to about 84 MPH with no issues, but it's a little more sensitive to wind gusts. I also have to look through the MRA screen, which has not been a big issue so far. You can adjust out most of the reflections, and the MRA is well made and sturdy.

Spoilers:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/302615538923
 

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#169 ·
Deflectors + loose headlight screw...need help!!

Received the deflectors and installed the left one, no issues. But the right screw on the headlight was free and kept rotating (I had some insurance work done and looks like the dealer messed it up) so I had to force the screw out. And as seen in pics out came the washer and the nut too. dont even mention the damage :( I can live with it if I can install the deflector.

Now, if I try to put the nut and washer back, the nut wont fit in the whole inside the fairing.

The nut is M5 0.8. is that even right? maybe that was the reason the screw kept rotating?

Does anyone know what is wrong or how to fix it?

thks
Manni
 

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