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Windscreen and Buffeting 2012+ DL650 - Appendix 1 - Custom Deflectors

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183K views 194 replies 104 participants last post by  Trevd  
#1 · (Edited)
Apologies up front if this 'Appendix' idea goes against the 'the only one' theme of the main Windscreen and Buffeting thread... I'd be happy to move this topic into that thread but it is getting a bit long... so didn't want to clog it up. Happy to rename this if inappropriate too.

Following on from my initial post here.


Herewith my guide to making your own Air Flares for the Glee:


Disclaimer - this is free advice and probably worth every penny. Please don't melt your bike and/or create something that distracts you and makes you fall off it at speed (or stationary for that matter!)... or anything like that. Oh... and please don't blame me if something goes wrong. I'm quite brave around the workshop although with no appropriate training. I've learned by trial and error and might be underestimating how easy I thought this was, or what a risk I took pressing (reasonably) hot Perspex to the plastic fairing of my prized Glee. I've never worked with Perspex until now... if that helps... but I've used a jigsaw and drill before. I wear eye protection these days too :thumbup: and so far so good. No Glee was hurt in the making of this article and there was no blood, burns or blindness suffered afterward by anyone involved or standing nearby. :fineprint:

WARNING: The design isn't perfect and you will need to somehow protect the plastics from being scratched when riding and the air pushes the Air Flares inwards toward the fairing. I'm still trying to figure out a permanent solution (ideas welcome!) but for now I'm using rubber sticker discs normally used under furniture. Glass protector buttons also work, and with one prototype I stuck foam rubber all along the edges, which really protects everything... but doesn't look too good.


What you'll need:

- Longer bolts than the ones in the fairing. I used ones about 50mm / 2" long. There is a limit to the length. If you feel around inside the fairing you'll realise there's something metal there that will eventually get in the way of the bolt if it's too long.

- Paper or cardboard to create a template.

- An A4 (roughly) sized sheet of Perspex or suitable material - I got mine from a signage company - just walked in and asked for an off-cut... cost - $0

- Suitable saw to cut out the shape

- Sandpaper to smooth things around the edges

- Plumbers torch or heat gun or some such thing with which to heat up the Perspex so that you can bend it. Lots of 'how to' stuff on YouTube... it surprised me how easy it is if you have a torch. I wouldn't be surprised if you could do it with a candle and some patience.

- Drill to make mounting holes. I used about a 6mm wood drill bit (I wanted the hole to be larger than the bolt to avoid stressing the Perspex).

- Rubber spacers / washers. I used a thick, hard rubber tap washer, surrounded by soft (old bicycle inner tube) cut outs, plus a metal washer on the outside.

- Something to protect the fairing from the Air Flare rubbing against it. As per warning above.

- A sip of good ale really helps now and then :yesnod:


Step 1:
Start out with this shape

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Step 2:
Transfer this shape to your choice of material.

I tried with a thinner Perspex first, then opted to go with this 3mm stuff. There are pros and cons to the choice, around flexibility, durability, etc. My bike is garaged day and night and mostly on tarmac. They are pretty easy to make once you get the hang of it... so try different thicknesses and see what works best for you. I'm not sure if this methods works on anything other than Perspex though. So please do some research on how to bend other materials before simply aiming a flame at it.

Tip: Try leaving the protective film on to prevent scratching until you use the heat gun... then it needs to be off.

Tip: Make a few extra templates. Once you've bent them you'll realise how impossible it is to copy them again ;)

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Step 3:
Cut them out with a metal hacksaw / blade (or better if you know how). My jigsaw on medium speed worked OK.

Cut slowly, and watch out for heat buildup. The Perspex will likely melt here and there along your cuts. Sometimes it re-connects to the other half and bonds so strongly you have to cut it again :headbang:

Try as far as possible to keep the material steady and avoid too much vibration/flexing. Just when you think you've finished with that last little bit to go, it might crack and you've got to start again :jawdrop:

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Step 4:
Sand down edges by hand or with a sander. The finer the paper the cleaner you'll get the edges apparently. I just used standard '60' gauge sandpaper that came with my sander.

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Step 5:
Remove fairing bolt and store somewhere safe. You'll need to use a longer one if you're going to use enough rubber spacers to reduce vibration and permit some flexibility. See 'What you'll need' above.

Step 6:
Make sure you know where you want to position your Air Flare. I put these stickers on to show what I was lining things up with to try make something that kinda fits the lines of the fairing.

Hmmm... seems I've reach my limit of file attachments. Follow on post coming up!
 

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#2 ·
Step 6 Continued

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Step 7:
Heat up the Perspex along the indicated curve. I used a plumbers torch and you can see the flame size. I passed it over the material at a steady pace. Holding it in my hand, I could sense when the material wanted to bend just with gravity. You can heat from both sides.

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Step 8:
While hot, hold the shape up against the fairing, and push from the outside in, so that the material 'crumples' into the space behind it. If you wear gloves (or work fast with quick touches), you can push the material up against the fairing to get it to match the shape more accurately. The hot Perspex didn't do any damage to the darker plastic. At one point I re-heated the sharp end to get it better aligned with the bolt hole, and pressed it against the hole, which is in the orange plastic... and when removing it I felt if may have been trying to 'stick' to it... :jawdrop:. Luckily no awful outcome... but be careful. Maybe cover the fairing in metal foil or something?

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This is about the bend shape you're looking for...

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More to follow - but it's simply drill a hole in them, and mount them using suitable rubber / vibration damping material, and spacing them away from the plastics to avoid scratching the one against the other.
 

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#3 ·
I think this is different enough to allow it to stand alone. A link to it from the parent thread is probably a good idea. Please stay on topic though everybody. Don't stray off into windscreens and mirrors.
 
#4 ·
Step 9: Drilling holes then mounting

Step 9: Drill holes in the appropriate place.

I used about an 6mm wood bit. Using tape might help keep the edges clean. I guess small cracks here are what will cause them to break off further down the line. I also tried to keep the hole far enough away from any edge, and the hole a bit bigger than the bolt, so that pressure from the surrounding rubber washers was what touched the actual Perspex, not the bolt which could carry vibration.

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Step 10:
Mount using rubber washers. Spacing them far enough away from the plastic may result in no need for protective things to be stuck between the Air Flares and the Fairing, but I'm not sure how effectively they will then deflect the air from that channel that sucks air inward towards your belly, then upward into and under your helmet causing noise... as well as disturbing the airflow past your helmet which I think all add up to the terrible buffeting and discomfort most of us reading this thread seem to be experiencing.

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More on the warning about rubbing against the fairing.

At this point in time - I'm using small rubber disk shaped stickers about 1.5cm diameter, stuck on the fairing, to stop the Perspex Air Flare from touching the plastic. I'm pretty sure when it rains or I wash the bike, they'll eventually fall off and need to be replaced.

I'm working on a way to solve this. As soon as I or anyone else has a bright idea... please let us know!

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Hope this helps. Anyone else with good ideas how to improve this concept please don't hesitate to contribute.

:biggrinjester:
 

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#13 · (Edited)
I'm working on a way to solve this. As soon as I or anyone else has a bright idea... please let us know!

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Hope this helps. Anyone else with good ideas how to improve this concept please don't hesitate to contribute.

:biggrinjester:
So, I want to do this.

I'm thinking of adding a tab to the lower edge that may rub the panel bending it back parallel with the panel then drilling a small hole in the tab and put a rubber bumper that many hardware stores sell. (the bumpers are much like the one on my sw motech center stand that is a rubber disc with a mushroomed nub that pushes through a hole much smaller than the bumper and holds it there).

Conversely, you could drill a small hole in the panel where the air flare contacts it and place the nub of the bumper through that. You wouldn't have to worry about it ever falling off or moving and it may be much easier. Of course, then you're putting a hole (prob 1/8") into your bike. many may not like that.

something like this...

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thoughts?

BTW, Great Post!!! Thanks for taking the time to write this up!
 
#5 ·
Interesting thread. How thick is the perspex you used?
 
#7 ·
About 3mm

Have you rode with them attached? results?
Yes absolutely - riding is now a totally different experience, even with the makeshift idea-in-the-making the effect is very noticeable. The air around the front of my torso is still and the buffeting is stopped. The noise 'booming' in my helmet is greatly reduced (completely eliminated with my Sparx Octane helmet, not entirely with my Shark flip face, but my hand-guards appear to be the main culprit now) and I can move the GIVI AF3101 to different heights to match differing speeds (traffic, outrides, etc.) and/or I'm using my gel seat pad so sitting a little higher up, etc. etc.

I can hear the bike now - which is awesome! :mrgreen:
 
#11 ·
Excellent idea. I recall it being quite costly stuff, but will go look around. I guess the trick is going to be to find something that sticks to the plastic well enough to last through a wash or wet ride... And looks fair decent. My small black disks are working well and blend into the plastic pretty well... But I can see they aren't going to stay stuck for very long :(


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 
#10 ·
Maybe some of those black "door edge guards" for cars that the auto parts shop sells for a few bux... wouldn't stop the rubbing, but might allow it to rub without damage.

I love this idea; I'm going to order a Givi Airflow next week so I will have to make some of these too.

Rob
 
#12 ·
I'll be following this thread too! On my 2012 I installed the SW Motech light mounts and some LED lights that actually smoothed out airflow some. I have experimented with tank deflectors on the earlier model V Stroms ( they are still on the '04, pic of them on the '03 below the levers and mounted on the tank area ) and they make a worthwhile difference. I will be working on something for my 2012...

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#16 ·
Well I put the set I was making on hold and copied the set posted here. I made them up in about 3 hours and bolted them up last night. This morning went for a quick 300+ mile ride and I notice a huge difference immediately! there staying on! Well worth the effort. Thanks M@rk :hurray::hurray:

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#21 ·
After trying different windshield set up (including Madstad bracket),I still had noise and some buffeting. A month ago, while on the freeway, I started moving my left hand around the cockpit, and came to the same conclusion. I made these wings out of Lexan, and they work well. Now I hear my engine at highway speed and no buffeting. Still have clean air cooling my torso...great for warm days . :thumbup:





 
#23 ·
I knew from the deflectors I made for the two other V STroms we have that they would probably help the 2012 at least as much. I had these on for the recent trip and with the other mods I made buffeting/turbulence was GREATLY reduced. I will post something in the windscreen thread about this soon.

When I mounted the led lights I could tell that they helped the buffeting a little. I done a bit of experimenting and this is where I am at. I am planning to cut these down just a little bit, I think I can do that without diminishing their effectiveness. Even though I used the led light mounts ( SW Motech mounts ) you could cut a spacer and do the same thing without them.

I will tell you the effect is more than just noticeable, and paired with a couple other mods I am getting close to smooth quiet air at 75 mph and above.

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#40 ·
I knew from the deflectors I made for the two other V STroms we have that they would probably help the 2012 at least as much. I had these on for the recent trip and with the other mods I made buffeting/turbulence was GREATLY reduced. I will post something in the windscreen thread about this soon.

When I mounted the led lights I could tell that they helped the buffeting a little. I done a bit of experimenting and this is where I am at. I am planning to cut these down just a little bit, I think I can do that without diminishing their effectiveness. Even though I used the led light mounts ( SW Motech mounts ) you could cut a spacer and do the same thing without them.

I will tell you the effect is more than just noticeable, and paired with a couple other mods I am getting close to smooth quiet air at 75 mph and above.
What's with the windscreen? It doesn't look like a stock givi airflow..? Did I miss a post in the windscreen thread about this?
 
#25 ·
I've been riding my 2012 Glee Adventure for a week now. Even with the adventure windscreen addon I have to wear earplugs when traveling at highway speeds. By ducking an inch or two the noise is gone and I can actually hear the engine. Trouble is, I can't ride like that, I was always taught to sit up straight :)

I was thinking of trying to build my own replacement adventure windscreen extender that would sit up another couple inches.

Based on what I'm reading in this thread, the issue might be solved by adding wings. Awesome!!!
 
#26 ·
There is more to it than just the wings, or just a different windscreen, or changing mirrors, or a different helmet, etc. I will see if I can take some time and add to the windscreen/buffeting thread next week. I have done quite a bit on the windscreen and deflectors and am about to start on some deflectors for the mirror stalk. In my experience there is no bolt on one piece solution to clean airflow, especially at speeds over 55 mph.
 
#27 ·
I have not gotten around to making a set yet but it is on the list...

Interestingly I noticed something today that I had not noticed before. I was riding at about 60 give or take and I my legs were really tired from a long bicycle ride yesterday and I let them splay out. Actually they were so tired that holding the against the tank was tiring. Anyway, when I splayed my legs out wide there was a very large increase in turbulence. So I am going to look at a way to reduce some of the flow coming from down low and messing the air up.
 
#28 ·
Hi buddies, I see that every one is looking for and refine the idea of ending wind deposit, forward me that my idea will serve to improve comfort, my bike is working very well, and also I put deflectors for legs, they work very well, prevent air rises upwards, greetings to all. of Spanish.: Thumbup:: Hurra:
 
#30 ·
Hey. I did for myself a pair of improved custom deflectors based on the idea of this post.

I tried the first design but didn't convince me. After the first test, I made something similar but also attached to the screw near the 'S' logo in the tank.

They work better for me and look "quite" integrated. I'll take some pics.

The combination of my custom deflectors + Givi Airflow with changed inclination work incredibly well for me. Now I want to change OEM mirrors for trying to reduce the air going to my shoulders.
 
#31 ·
This is great stuff. You guys truly need to colaboratively come up with the most awesome design and start manufacturing and selling them. Become the next Richland Rick :)

Honestly though, I'm surprised there isn't already a market for this. I guess maybe the Vstrom isn't nearly as popular as Goldwings, but my dad's goldwing Trike has little aftermarket winglets all over it lol. And literally, you might as well be riding in a car. There is no air flow (except the air coming from the vents) and it is an incredibly quiet ride.

All that said...I kinda enjoy my loud ride...But understandable why on long trips you'd want to make things quiet and serene. My Madstad windscreen does a pretty good job, but I can see room for improvement. I'll keep a look out on these ideas and if one day I become skilled with any tool other than a computer I may try one. :)
 
#33 ·
i was at the aim expo in orlando this weekend and saw custom wind defectors installed on the cowling next to the windshield on a triumph exploder. they were being built and sold by the guy that makes the adjustable windshield bracket many of us have. not sure i can or should post the name. i spoke to him and think i convinced him there was a market for defectors for vstroms. he said he was going to look into it.