You really just need to ride the bike more, practice and simply just get used to it...........There isn't a "Throttle Sensitivity" adjustment.
You may also be riding in too low of a gear for the respective riding situations

You'll get there..........:var_39:

 

1.Try riding with one or two fingers (index and middle) extended and resting on the brake lever. This will give you a solid point of reference and help you with steadier throttle control. You can use pressure on from these two fingers to help keep the throttle steady.

2. Also, make sure you are riding with a low wrist position. A high wrist position will cause you to roll on the throttle when a bump jerks you around; a low wrist position will cause you to roll off.

A bit of practice with these techniques will do wonders.

 

I've noticed the same thing on my thou. It can be a bit difficult around town especialy with the fairly stiff clitch action mine seems to have ( is this common too?).
My '06 R1 is much easier to be smooth on.
But, different type of engine. Big torquey V-Twin Vs high reving four.

 

Yes its normal and yes there is a fix that will greatly improve the feel http://www.stromtrooper.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27060&highlight=clutch

 

Your grip on the throttle can make a difference too. Keep the wrist flat, or even slightly lowered (so the wrist and forearm create a very shallow "V"). If your wrist is too high you will have a tendency to open the throttle when you hit bumps.

From the MSF Motorcycle Operator's Manual:


Hands — Hold the handgrips
frmly to keep your grip over rough
surfaces. Start with your right
wrist flat. This will help you keep
from accidentally using too much
throttle.

http://www.msf-usa.org/downloads/Library_Motorcycle_Operator_Manual.pdf

 

You can adjust snappy throttle response by using the lever near the left handgrip.

 

A couple of ponderables

Make sure your throttle cables are adjusted properly, and also when was the last timeyou replaced the cush rubbers in the rear hub? Both of these can amplify the problem. I replace my cush rubbers every second rear tire (2 tires/cush rubbers).

 

throttle sensitivity tech solution

In the Feb 09 issue of Motorcycle Consumer News, a device called the "G2 Ergonomics Throttle Tamer" is given a very positive review as a way to smooth the transition between lower and higher rpm. Essentially it is a
throttle barrel with a ramped take up cam. $59.95 and up. www.g2ergo.com
......might be cheaper to work on technique though.

 

Thanks guys, for all the great tips. Especially the one about fingers on the brake lever, that seems to help a lot. Now it's practice, practice, practice. :mrgreen:

Rod

 

The above mentioned advice is very useful.
These bikes are quite sensitive to throttle. I found that keeping the revs up and feathering the "bullet proof" clutch helps a lot in low speed situations.
It helps toget rid of the on-off nature of the throttle.
Be very careful how you adjust the throttle rocker. If you have it set too high it can make things worse. You need to set it for cruising speeds.

 

The Throttle Tamer looks great. I would buy one if they offered it for a DL650. I just got a new 08 and the jerky throttle surprised me as well. I've adjusted the throttle cables as tight as possible and I'm learning to keep it in a lower gear so that the throttle is open and away from the transition point as far as possible. This is somewhat counterintuitive to me since I usually ride torquier bikes and lug them around in a high gear.
I've also installed a CRG clutch lever which makes it easier for me to control the clutch. During technical riding I keep the throttle open and slip the clutch, thus avoiding the abrupt on/off transition.

 

The Throttle Tamer looks great. I would buy one if they offered it for a DL650. I just got a new 08 and the jerky throttle surprised me as well. I've adjusted the throttle cables as tight as possible and I'm learning to keep it in a lower gear so that the throttle is open and away from the transition point as far as possible.

You don't want the throttle cables to be too tight. You should have some slack in the adjusters. About 2-3mm of slack is normally ok...so the throttle handle rotates just a little before it revs the engine. If you don't have enough slack you may find the throttle position changing as you go from lock to lock with your bars causing your engine to rev. This may take you by suprise.

 

Got ...the throttle seems very sensitive;

Agreed, as I have <500 miles experience on my DL650. A more experienced wee owner said it may be due to FI as opposed to carburetor aspiration which he believes is smoother.

 

Good carburetion is smoother than poor fuel injection.
Imagine a GSXR 1000 or a Hyabusa with a jerky throttle. Suzuki can fix the problem when they feel they need to.

 

I've noticed the jerky low-speed throttle response on my K9 Wee. I put it down to FI. As someone pointed out carbs are smoother than FI.

 

ditto on the two fingers on the brake lever, started doing it when I got the wee,
just seemed natural.

Has anyone heard about the new Aprilia Shiver 750?
It has a ride by wire throttle. with 3 settings for power / throttle response.
How cool is that!!!!

From the Aprilia web site
The Ride-by-Wire system controls throttle openings by an electronic connection alone. This advanced and sophisticated system manages engine power in real time, adapting output to engine speed, road speed, gear selection, atmospheric pressure, throttle position and even the speed with which the twist-grip is being turned. This results in the optimal fuelling for any given riding situation and style.

Tri-Map Selectable Engine Mapping
The electronic engine management on the Shiver 750’s engine leads the field in technology and performance. The Shiver features a second generation electronic throttle with Tri-Map selectable triple mapping.

Three performance modes, Sport, Touring and Rain, can be selected on the move from a switch on the handlebars (with the throttle closed for safety reasons). The Shiver changes its character radically, depending on what mode you select. Sport mode gives you aggressive instant power; Touring mode gives you smoother throttle action, better suited to relaxed long distance riding; and Rain mode provides reduced power for improved safety on slippery surfaces.

The Tri-Map electronic throttle also means smoother, more consistent power thanks to more accurate and precise throttle control based on parameters including engine speed, gear selection, air flow, throttle position and temperature. The V twin engine performs superbly at low and medium revs and even at partial throttle openings, situations typical of the sort of riding the Shiver 750 is designed for.

 

Eliminate as much slack as reasonable in every subsystem between your right hand and the rear tire.

This includes throttle cable adjustment and chain tension, primarily.

Everything that has slack allows excessive free-play movement until there is true contact. With a little slack in the throttle cable & chain, there is a very imprecise feel when throttling on / off / on again.

As an example, consider pulling a stuck car from a ditch:

If the stuck car and pull vehicle are connected by a tow strap, and there is much slack in the tow strap, the result is an abrupt jerky / snap feel at the stuck car.

If there is as little slack as possible in the tow strap, the result is a smooth / calm pull at the stuck car.

 

As much as I see that advice, I'll disagree. I have extra slack in my throttle to allow better action from my electronic cruise control. The return cable is only used if the return spring breaks or the pull cable gets very sticky. 99% of the time, you could remove the return cable and it would make no difference as long as there is tension on the pull cable. People who have low speed problems have yet to learn to use a combination of clutch, throttle and brake, usually the rear, to slow ride. The bike needs about 3000rpm for good power pulses and people try riding it at idle with the clutch lever all the way out. That's just poor technique, carb or FI.

 

So I went for a cross country ride in the desert today and looked at my tach as I was working through the washes. Whaddayaknow 3000 RPM, you called it. I wouldn't have thought I was reving it that high.
I must say my clutch hand gets quite tired though, maybe I need to excercise it more like some of the semi professional wankers we seem to have on board here.:bom_chinese:

 

Yes the poor fuel injection on the DL 650 can be overcome by a skilled rider. It's a shame that we have to. Abrupt power delivery has been engineered out of many EFI bikes with more than double the power of a DL 650.

Greywolf you are the first person I've ever heard suggest that 3000 rpm and slipping the clutch is good low speed tecnique. I think it's only necessary because of a flawed EFI system.

 

moto I think lack of operator skill is more of a problem then the fuel injection on these bikes. Don't know if you are old enough or remember the Suzuki TM400R you should try controling one of those evil handling POS when the automatic timing advance went from 8 degrees to 28 degrees at 3000 RPM's instead of the correct 5000 RPM"s.

 

It's much the same technique I've used for 175 singles to 900 twins with carbs. Motorcycles engines, especially mid to low displacement singles and twins, do not put out strong enough or numerous enough power pulses to putt along at idle, especially considering they need to be balanced as well. The worst case I ever had was a Yamaha XS1000E due to it having so much power coming off idle and a lot of drive line lash. I taught MSF courses for a few years and using the clutch to control low speeds was a part of the curriculum.

 

you guys are friggin kidding right? the 650 has poor FI??? no. seems like the 650 has poor riders. here lets take a look....

Carburation - turn throttle, open butterflys, suck air into system, suck gas in with it, engine runs faster.

FI - turn throttle, engine goes faster.

if you think the 650 is jumpy at low speeds, come drive my 1K. let me get the crash bars installed first, though.

listen to Pat. use the clutch. use the brake. learn to ride your bike. stop bitching about it.

P.

 

QUOTE: "Yes the poor fuel injection on the DL 650 can be overcome by a skilled rider. It's a shame that we have to. Abrupt power delivery has been engineered out of many EFI bikes with more than double the power of a DL 650." :QUOTE





My last two new bikes, both Suzukis, had F.I. and ran flawlessly.....a 2005 Boulevard and my current 08' DL-650.

 

Gotta agree with Greywolf and bigP on this one. Nothing really wrong with the fuel injection on these bikes. Electronic fuel injection on many bikes and even cars can be a little sensitive when rolling on and off throttle...but it's easy to get used to it. The Wee and Vee are not much different to any other bike with injection. It's proper throttle and clutch control that is essential to smooth riding. I'm not suggesting slipping the clutch in any gear other than 1st. But careful synchronisation of throttle and clutch will pay dividends. It's just practice. Enjoy the bike!

 

The Wee does not have a sensitive throttle when compared to a Burgman 650 off idle or while corning (very scary) or the SV650 at all settings. What you are feeling in second and third gear is the difference in the power generated between the Burgman 650 and Wee Strom.

Due to the Burgman's lack of power while underway you have to really twist the throttle with a good portion of it at WOT in order to get it moving. Just keep that in mind, and you’ll do fine. Also don’t hold the grip so tight and remember that you now have a clutch. So, unlike the Burgman 650, you can always cut power from the transmission or feather power (as well as feather engine breaking - something you can't do on a Burgman) to your will.

I can tell you this because my ride prior to the Wee Strom, like you, was a Burgman 650. You’ll also find the Wee excels over the Burgman 650 in all performance areas. That includes comfort and especially slow speed maneuvers and daily commuting scenarios and most importantly, there is no high frequency buzz numb right hand form that smoother in-line engine. Best part is not having to use rear brakes at the same time as using throttle in order to maneuver that 650lb beast (very scary and unnatural).

But you’ll miss the storage capacity…but not the bumpy harsh ride and overactive engine breaking that’ll launch you over the handle bars without notice.

You'll also find that despite it's top heaviness, the Wee is much easier to ride/move around/maneuver (and you'll feel 100% safer), cheaper and eaiser to live with, work on and modify.

 

If you cannot control the throttle of a Vee or Wee perhaps you should not be riding a motorcycle.

GW
Perhaps its a age induced shake that prevents proper coordination:mrgreen::mrgreen:

 

I agree the Wee is pretty tame when it comes to throttle sensitivity. But in prospective, he is coming off a 40HP 650lb Scooter to a motorcycle. He is experiencing power on demand as oppose to the WOT count to 10 method.

 

LMAO! This is gettin' good...

 

Come on Shep, you know you bought the 1000 because you were afraid of the abrupt delivery of the massive amount of torque from the 650.

 

Geez. Weight and power don't factor in a lot here. The Burgman has a CVT transmission, not a clutch. The CVT does the slipping for the rider. Later models, at least, are fuel injected anyway.

 

You would think so. But it doesn't (Referring to the 650..the 400 is a much easier bike to control.) Off idle response is abrupt. Mid corning CVT adjustments (tranny lash about 12 MPH) are harsh. The Burgman has three speeds. Zero (idle), snap to 12 MPH, then all other speed afterwards.

Continues speeds below 12 MPH have to be control with both throttle and back brakes simultaneously. Engine braking is harsh and abrupt at slow speeds. You can’t coast. You are either at speed at 12 MPH or engine breaking or throttling while back braking. The Burgman is a very peculiar machine that takes a long while to get use too.

What makes it so annoying has more to do with the crappy suspension coupled with its excessive weight than the abruptness of power delivery. The SV650 is abrupt on and off throttle. More so than the Burgman but in a fun way. The SV650 is about 250lbs lighter. And its suspension won’t try to buck you off the bike when the abruptness occurs.