There's a tradeoff. The stator tries to behave as a constant power source. With a shunt regulator excess power turns up as current in the windings, series regulator, voltage across the windings. That is generally easier to live with but not always as it can cause arcing if the insulation is marginal. Since the stator is soaked in oil, generally heat isn't a problem - the problem with these was AFAIK mechanical stress caused by the magnetic fields making the insulation wear through to ground, really nothing to do with shunt or series regulators.

Install a voltmeter, there's a pigtail under the front faring that's often used for a 12v power outlet and you can get voltmeters that plug into that. If the voltage doesn't get above 14.7 leave well alone. If it does check the battery grounds (BOTH ends, battery and chassis end) and if those are O.K. you need a new regulator anyway.

I have LED headlights on my 650 with a shunt regulator and on my 1000 with a series regulator, neither are causing problems.

 

If I may ask, why would voltage at that described accessory plug be higher than what the battery reads? It would be lower almost certainly, right?

Forgive me, just trying to understand. A less than good ground (battery/chassis etc) could cause measured voltage to read higher? Checking the grounds is always a good idea in general though, I will do that

 

Bad grounds cause inaccurate voltage readings, bad grounds at things like rectifiers cause high battery voltages. The assumption is that ground is ground is ground, if that's untrue then nothing makes sense. Hence check the cables first.

And you are almost correct, an accessory plug should read lower except - electronics and noise and sometimes they read higher. That's not why you need a meter on the bike, it's so you can check what the voltage is doing while riding. It's really hard to do that with the seat off and a meter across the batteries - you are technically right - but it's no use at all . If the voltage doesn't rise above 14.7 when riding likely everything is O.K., if not there's a problem somewhere. The connector out of the rectifier has been know to have dodgy contacts for example.

 

I would not switch out the headlights to led. You are going to put more strain on the system. If your stator is truly healthy switch to a series R/R and then switch you bulbs to led if you want. I just switched mine to a series R/R as a lot have. So did Suzuki on the later models. As to is it easy it can be. roadstercycle.com has a super kit that is as plug and play as you're going to get. Check out post 41 in the linked thread.

2008 Dl1000 Stator output

So I have read every post I can find on the stator, migrating magnets, and battery. I have been laid up for well over a year with some health issues that left me being able to speak barely above a whisper. I finally got the bike out yesterday and went for a ride. Came off the tinder with a green...

www.stromtrooper.com

 

I'll wait until I get the funds to get a series rectifier, they're fairly pricey but not as bad as a surprise electrical problem or burnt components and wires.