StromTrooper banner

Replacing rear spring on stock shock

20K views 28 replies 15 participants last post by  capitalletterman  
#1 ·
I'm starting this thread over since that last one got hopelessly thread-jacked.

My last two long distance two-up trips have shown me that the stock rear suspension on my 2012 DL650 isn't really up to the task of my weight (240), passenger weight (about 130), and cargo. In searching the forums, most of the info available seems to apply to pre-2012 models, and I'm not sure if the rear suspensions between the 2012 and earlier models are the same. I get the impression that they aren't.

Has anyone replaced a stock rear spring with a heavier duty spring on a stock 2012 650 rear shock? If you have, can you describe the installation process, and whether or not you ultimately found that it was an improvement?

With all due respect to those more knowledgeable than I, I'm not looking for four pages of argument on suspension theory, sag settings, why preload is a myth, or anything else. Suspension mods are expensive, and replacing a spring is the cheapest one you can do; I'd just like to know if anyone has done it for the reasons I outlined above, and whether it solved the problems I described.

Thanks.
 
#2 ·
I am going to move this to the general forum because the question applies to any any V-Strom model. I know some people have replaced the spring on their shock on other model V-Stroms and it does help heavier riders. Turning up the damping to match is a good idea too. Sorry about the threadjacking. I'll keep an eye on this one.
 
#5 ·
Removal is simple. First thing is to back off the preload as far as it will go. Remove the side cover. There are 3 bolts on the lower shock collar. Remove them and the shock will hang. Support the swing arm so it doesnt drop. Remove the 2 bolts holding the preload. With a 10 and 12 mm wrench you can disconnect the line from the unit. It has a one way valve on the line so no fluid will be lost. Be careful as you twist of the actuator to not let the fluid leak out. There will be a washer and a rubber o ring. It is best for instal if you put the on the threaded end of the line. There is a bolt through the top of the shock to remove. Slide the shock and line out through the bottom.

You will need a .5 mm allen wrench to loosen the screw holding the preload collar. Very odd size not commonly used. This is the hard part. You will need a press to compress the spring to get to the retaining ring on the top of the shock. Mark the position of the set screw in relation to the shock so reassembly is with the line and collar in the same relationship. Once you remove the retaining clip release the pressure on the spring and take the collar off. It is best if you purchase the extra plates for the top and bottom of the spring as they sit prouder for the heavier spring. They will sit inside the top and bottom. Put the collar back on and position it on the marks previously made. Put back in the press and compress the spring and collar. Put the retaining clip on, most usually on the second grove from the top. Release the spring and tighten the set screw. Install the bolt thru the top of the shock. Feed the line back into position. Reinstall the 3 bolts on the bottom shock mount. To reattach the line it is easier if you reach from behind and push the line forward and down as you will need to screw the preload actuator to the line keeping the opening up as you twist the actuator to the line so as to not lose any fluid. Tighten back up with a 10 and 12 mm wrench. Screw in the 2 bolts to mount the actuator. Put the side cover on and you are just about done. Turn the knob and start counting the clicks when you feel a start to resistance to where you can't turn any more. In all there are about 38 clicks but it may be 8-10 real light before resistance. Count the clicks from the start of resistance, you will tell the difference, to the end. Keep track of the number. From full preload, back off 19 clicks. That will put you in the bottom quarter of your preload. Go ride it. Make no more than 2 clicks at a time and ride it again. If you need to at any time you can always screw the nob all the way in and back off 19 clicks to keep a baseline. That way you always know where you are.
 
#6 · (Edited)
#10 ·
Guitarhack, I really want to thank you for that link. I wish I'd found that before I posted my question, since it pretty much answered everything I was asking. It was a great write up with great pictures (I like your use of the pipe clamps; even easier than building the wooden jig). Based on your write up, it looks like an upgrade I can tackle at home.

Was there any problem getting that retaining ring off? Did you just use pliers (and not a special tool I might now have in my toolbox)?

Again, thanks a lot....
 
#13 ·
Keep us posted

RCinNC,

Please keep us posted on your suspension changes. I think I remember you were asking for info on a spring change. I carry some weight (290 lbs out of the shower) and am also 6'2"... and I would love to see as much info as I can on what, where and how to!!!

That would be sweet!!

Thanks for all you guys and your wisdom!!:thumbup:
 
#15 ·
RCinNC,

Please keep us posted on your suspension changes. I think I remember you were asking for info on a spring change. I carry some weight (290 lbs out of the shower) and am also 6'2"... and I would love to see as much info as I can on what, where and how to!!!

That would be sweet!!

Thanks for all you guys and your wisdom!!:thumbup:
I will, Gasman...I'm probably going to put it off until it gets colder, since the bike will be out of commission for a few weeks if I send the shock out to have someone else replace the spring. I haven't decided yet if I'm going to try it myself or not....
 
#17 ·
shock rear spring change

hi I am thinking of changing the rear shock spring (only ) I think and with previous experience on other bikes that changing the front springs and having the rear shock serviced if required and changing the rear spring is enough of a difference to warrant the cost and does not break the bank,

I have used racetech before a few times for front springs and was happy with their calculator and with their springs.

Note it does not get the suspension to the level of more expensive and advanced rebuilding or emulators /indimators nonetheless imho it is a worthwhile upgrade if you weigh 200lbs or more and good compromise for $ value.


I have 2008abs.

only concern I have is reading here seems the shock preload adjuster is difficult to remove anyone have a photo of how to do it?
thanks in advance
E.
 
#18 ·
I did exactly as the original poster suggested. I changed out the rear and the front springs for heavy it duty ones. I ride two up with lots of luggage on shitty roads in south america. the ride is definitely harder however we have not had any problems in 8000 kilometres so far.
 
#19 ·
Just wanted to follow up on my original post.

I just had the rear spring on my stock shock replaced with one better suited to my size and the way I ride (lots of loaded two up riding). The work was done by Cogent Dynamics. Took it out for a test ride today, and it definitely makes a difference. I didn't find the ride to be any more harsh, but it definitely feels a lot better on the bumps and dips. Naturally it isn't as good as having a high end shock put on, but it is way better for me than the stock spring that came on the shock.

For the amount spent, it was a really nice suspension upgrade.
 
#21 ·
I still need to do mine, its fine till I put camping gear on then its too nose high. After I do the valves soon it will be my next thing to tackle before my next long trip.

I have a large shop press with various plates and clamps for holding things, hopefully it won't be any big deal to change. I've only done it once before, but that was a DR650 and didn't need compression to remove the spring.

The 1.0's up front are so much better, so I think the 13.4 rear is the ticket for me as far as I can tell. I'm about 265 pounds and I'll probably be down to 250 by spring. Plus I ride wearing full gear, so that adds a good bit. I run loaded up about 60% of the time with a camp load, I really need a rear spring upgrade. The wallowing feel is tiring, it almost bottomed out when I added 50 pounds of apples on one trip while the hard bags were already loaded up, had to take it easy on the speed bumps.. :green_lol:
 
#22 ·
The bottoming out on my last trip in West Virginia was what did it for me too. Between me, my girlfriend, and a load of luggage, it was just too much for the stock spring.

I was going to build a jig and do the change myself, but Cogent Dynamics was so reasonable that it would have cost me more to buy the materials for the jig than it did for them to swap the spring for me.
 
#23 ·
I'm planning a couple of 2-up camping trips on my 2007 DL 1000. Together, the pillion and I (naked) weigh about 410lbs. Add to that our luggage and everything needed for camping, and we're really heavy. Sounds like I'll definitely need to upgrade the rear spring, right? (Is that the main concern about the weight, or do I have to worry about the integrity of the frame/chassis? I'll probably not have to change the front springs, right?)

Anyone have any links to springs that will fit on on the stock shocks without having to worry about complications such as adding spacers? I want one that will also be fine (adjusting the preload to minimum) for me riding solo (~200lbs) without much luggage.
 
#24 ·
Lol, this is my month for old zombie threads of mine being resurrected.

I've replaced the rear spring in both my 2012 DL650 and my Super Tenere. The DL was done by Cogent Dynamics, and the Yamaha was done by Norwest Suspension (they also rebuilt the shock). I think either of those companies could advise you of a spring replacement to meet your requirements, and sell one to you. Both of them are excellent companies to deal with.
 
#25 ·
I've replaced the rear spring in both my 2012 DL650 and my Super Tenere. The DL was done by Cogent Dynamics, and the Yamaha was done by Norwest Suspension (they also rebuilt the shock). I think either of those companies could advise you of a spring replacement to meet your requirements, and sell one to you. Both of them are excellent companies to deal with.
I tried Cogent Dynamics and they said there aren't any springs suitable for the stock shock, and if there were, it would overwhelm the damping.

I've found this online, but I don't know if it's suitable for my needs: Rear spring kit SUZUKI DL 1000 V-STROM | EPM Performance
 
#26 ·
You may want to check on the price of a shock rebuild. Norwest Suspension was pretty reasonable with their rebuild of my Super Tenere shock, which included a replacement spring with a higher spring rate suitable for my type of riding. I think the price was somewhere around $375 or $400, substantially cheaper than an aftermarket shock. The rebuild did make a difference; I felt like it was a good investment.