Is it (or was it) a mushroom style hex head?

 

Yes.

I'd post a picture but I've been having an issue with getting pics from my Google Photos account to appear.

It sounds like my best bet is grinding a slot with my Dremel and using a big screwdriver on it.

Luckily, I don't believe the bolt is seized or stuck, so I don't think it'll take much coaxing to get out once I have a way of turning the bolt.

 

A picture of the stripped bolt might help determine your best option.
If there is enough bolt head sticking out, grab it tightly with vice grips.
Sometimes if you have room you can cut a groove in the head with a hacksaw or dremel tool then remove the bolt with a slotted screwdriver.
If you trying to use an ez-out type extractor, be sure the hole you drill is the correct size and it MUST be drilled in the center of the bolt. You can tap the extractor into the hole as you're turning it counterclockwise. Tapping it will help it grab and stop slipping.


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The method is going to depend on several factors.

If it is a socket type screw you can drill the hex hole to the same diameter of the threaded bolt. As soon as the head is drill to its base the head will come off. This is good if you can get a pair of vise grip on the remaining part of the screw and spin it out. Or use a thin blade cut off tool to put a slot in the head for a screw driver.

A left handed drill bit works really well as it will oten spin the screw out while drilling it. See harbor freight tools.

But lets see the pic.

http://www.harborfreight.com/left-hand-drill-bit-set-13-pc-61686.html

 

Best bet is to find a way to get some vise grips on the head of the bolt. If the vise grips are just chewing it up you can try and shape the head with a dremel or grinder to get a flat side or two for the vise grips to grab on to. For a hex bolt this is not so bad, I've never done it on a mushroom cap, seems like that would be difficult.

Never had much luck with extractors myself, especially with bound up bolts. If all else fails I would just drill the whole thing out.
Best case your steady hand manages not to take much of the internal thread, you may have to pick some of the left over bolt material. Worst case you drill the hole out a little bigger, thread it a size up and put a new bolt in (unfortunate downside is you have an odd man out non conforming bolt)

 

thread it a size up

meant to say "tap" it a size up

 

If one of the mushroom heads, saw a slot across it for a big screwdriver. An impact driver might be needed. I think I had an EZ Out (bolt extractor) work once in 30 years. I've had some break off in the hole, more just ream the hole out, and I quit using them long ago.

For next time, take a look at your hex bits (Allen wrenches). If any of the ends are rounded, even a little, either toss and replace them or grind the rounded part off (shorten the wrench) with very frequent cooling in water so the heat of grinding doesn't take the hardness out of the tool. Always get the wrench all the way down into the hex hole, always hold it straight, and if too tight, don't just keep twisting until the hole is rounded.

 

If there is still some of the hex left, take a flat punch with a tip cross-section larger than the hex opening and forge the metal back down. Alternate with a correctly sized and sharp hex bit being driven in the hex hole to reestablish the hex. If you keep at it you can "restore" the hex pretty well and the impact may help to loosen up that bolt so it will come out easier. I would try that before trying to cut a slot.

There may be threadlocker on that bolt. Depending where it is try heating it up (but don't melt the Tupperware)

 

Drilling all the way through with a left hand drill bit is my goto option now. Really hard to screw up, and the bolt usually comes loose and unwinds once you get all the way through.

WRT Ez-outs, they should ONLY be used to grip the bolt and unwind it, if you need to lean on the Ez-out, don't. Hardened steel is very hard to remove. A larger left hand drill bit is the next best choice.

 

I feel the need to reiterate that this is not a snapped-off bolt and that, other than the hex opening on the mushroom head being rounded out, the bolt head is completely intact.

I've heard suggestions on left-hand drill bits before, but never tried one. Given this situation, would I want one that closely matches the rounded-out opening in the bolt head, or something larger?

Also, if I wanted to pick up a set of left-handed drill bits, does anyone have any suggestions that would be good for this application. I was going to order a set via Amazon, but realized I didn't want to get one that wasn't tough enough for hardened steel. However, I bike on a budget, so it's not like I can drop $100 on the latest Snap-On kit.

 

Having done machinist and millwright work for 35 years, removing stripped screws was a daily chore. A button head screw is often one of the easiest to get out, using a sharp chisel. The chisel has to be SHARP. It has to be sharp enough to cut into the head of the screw, so sharpen the chisel before you start. Put the chisel on the head of the screw, so you can tap the screw in the right rotation to back it out. I even made pictures.

 

Did anyone already mention soaking it in penetrating/lubricating fluid (WD-40 or similar) well in advance?

 

Left Hand Drill Bit Set 13 Pc

The screws on the fairing are going to be stainless, not hardened steel. The post above that referred to hardened steel was talking about the drill bits or an easy-out extractor.

http://m.harborfreight.com/screw-extractor-set-12-pc-61981.html

Or like the guy 2 posts above said, carefully tap it counter clockwise with a sharp punch.

 

Even more good ideas!

Thanks for all the help.

 

I had a uncooperative bolt in the body work I ended up breaking my spiral easy out and then drilled the head off the bolt. Dang, those things are hard. Once i had the head off the stub backed out relatively easily.
When I'm using a hammer and chisel I like to grind a taper on a punch with small diameter. I can get into tight areas and vary the angle of approach.
When grinding a taper or sharpening the chisel I try to keep the tool cold to avoid softening the metal with heat. Can of water for frequent drenching help.