Have you sent the bike into dealer mode to check
if there are any error codes showing?

Hopefully an error code was thrown by whatever
went wrong and it will help you narrow down your
search for the problem.

 

Try the simple stuff first. Isopropyl alcohol may be all you need and it is a cheap fix. Plugs, I doubt it. It could be a random glitch that your dealer must fix but figure that as a last option.

 

LucasD , I'm currious , how does one put the bike in DEALERSHIP MODE??? :?

 

LucasD,

Good idea, I'll call them to see when they can do it. I could replace the plugs and add isopropyl and clean or replace the fuel filters, etc. Well, I will replace the plugs. But your idea sounds good to me.




VtSTROMK-5,

I think that's when you remove the rear fender so the dealer can stick his probe in there. :wink:

 

OWWWW, I think I'll pass on the "DEALERSHIP" mode then :shock: :shock: By the way , did you get bad gas from the trucktop food or water in yer fuel????

 

OWWWW, I think I'll pass on the "DEALERSHIP" mode then :shock: :shock: By the way , did you get bad gas from the trucktop food or water in yer fuel????

It may just be as simple as that. I don't think it's a truckstop beans issue!

 

Hahaha... No guys, it's not that bad.

There is a plug buried under the seat that the dealer
uses to plug in his diagnostic equipment.

You can remove the rubber cover from that plug,
create a jumper wire and plug the jumper wire
into two of the pins in the plug.

This will send the bike's display into a mode that
will display any error codes that the bike may have
stored. Once you have the code, someone on the
forum that has a service manual can tell you what
they might mean.

These instructions show how to send an SV650 into
dealer mode. It's the same for the strom, but based
on the SV650 photos, the strom plug might be
slightly harder to get at. I was able to get decent
access to it though.

http://forums.sv650.org/viewtopic.php?t=10245&highlight=dealer+mode

 

This thread shows where to find the dealer mode switch on a DL650 with photos:

http://www.stromtrooper.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4843

 

Sounds like what my wee was doing when new.

It was bad plug caps.

 

Can't hurt to change the plugs...switch to the Iridiums! How does the airfilter look? But......a bit of bad gas can also make the bike run like poo, I believe you are thinking of the right things to check. I seriously doubt if it is anything of a big deal.

 

Mine has 5850 km and it still stalls occasionally. The dealer said there was nothing wrong with it. Is this a common issue?

 

I put in new CR8EK plugs and Isopropyl, and put about 600 mi. on her.

Hasn't cut out yet. Time will tell, but I think it was water in the fuel.

 

Mine has 5850 km and it still stalls occasionally. The dealer said there was nothing wrong with it. Is this a common issue?

Its not common your dealer is full of crap.

 

I put in new CR8EK plugs and Isopropyl, and put about 600 mi. on her.

Hasn't cut out yet. Time will tell, but I think it was water in the fuel.

Good thinking...throw in some "stabil" as well, can't hurt! Why didn't you throw in some iridium plugs instead?

 

Why didn't you throw in some iridium plugs instead?

It makes no sense IMO: Read my opinion here
We have recently done the 24K service on my friend's Bandit. ALL the plugs were in excellent condition. The gaps were around 0,7 mm almost the factory value!

I put in new CR8EK plugs and Isopropyl, and put about 600 mi. on her.

Hasn't cut out yet. Time will tell, but I think it was water in the fuel.

Good news!

 

Why didn't you throw in some iridium plugs instead?

It makes no sense IMO: Read my opinion here
We have recently done the 24K service on my friend's Bandit. ALL the plugs were in excellent condition. The gaps were around 0,7 mm almost the factory value!

I put in new CR8EK plugs and Isopropyl, and put about 600 mi. on her.

Hasn't cut out yet. Time will tell, but I think it was water in the fuel.

Good news!

I think so! I will let you know if it cuts out again. I doubt it will.

 

UPDATE

The bike has not cut out after dumping in the isopropyl.

 

I am happy!

Ride safe

 

Well the problem is back. I went to start the bike today after sitting for about 4 days.

When it started, it died almost instantly. I tried again and it died right away again. I tried again, and this time gave it a little throttle. It kept running, but only on one cylinder for about 5 full seconds, then the other cylinder joined in.

Took it for a ride, and one cylinder keeps cutting out? Runs terrible with no power and then all of a sudden it's OK again.

I had drained the tank a while back and found no water. I ran lots of fuel injector cleaner, isopropyl, Stabil etc. through it . 3 tankfuls


I am beginning to think that it was never a fuel problem. I think it may be a plug wire/coil cap issue? ECM?

Any ideas?

 

Ok, now it seems there is nothing with the fuel.

As next step check the ignition system (cables, plugs, spark plugs).
They should have a certain resistance value (ohm). Maybe Greywolf (our living cyclopaedia and databank) will post the values. You can measure it with a cheap multimeter.
(One of the root cause can be the stealer removed the plugs and put back incorrectly (not tight enough). This is some kind of contact-error.
If you still have the replaced spark plugs it is worth to put them back and test ride.
Many times occur the mechanics tighten them way too much! That can cause micro cracks on the ceramic body of the spark plugs whic destroy their isolation. The correct tightening for a new plug is usually 1/4-3/4 turn if no other recommendation.
The CR8EK plug must be toqued between 7.2~8.7 lbft in a light alloy head.

All the surrounding electrical connectors via the wiring harness have to be checked as well.

Report what happens.

 

Thanks mokusbajusz,

I wouldn't let a dealer touch my bike unless there is something wrong that I just can't diagnose.

I replaced the plugs twice and I feel confident that they are not the cause of the problem.

I found out that it is the rear cylinder that is cutting out. I wiggled the spark plug wire and the 2 wires going to the coil and could not cause it to cut out. Then all of a sudden, without touching anything, it cuts out. When warmed up, the bike will run on just the front cylinder.

It seems to me that it's either the coil itself, or something before it.

The coil/wire assy. is about $45.00 but the ECM is $533.00!

I would like to test the two wires that feed juice to the coil. If it is cutting out then that would mean the coil is probably OK and the problem is before the coil.

I have no clue as how to test these wires. I have a multimeter, but have very limited knowledge on how to use it.

Can someone walk me through it?

 

If you are sure which cylinder cuts out you can test the coils/wires if they looks identical (I do not know, 'cause I haven't seen them yet).

First replace the coils with each other. If the same cylinder cuts out the coils are OK.

Secondly do the same with the mentioned wires. BUT only if the ECM-end of the wires also can be disconnected from the ECM! Otherwise do not do it!

If above method doesn't help in diagnosing the next possible cause can be the ECM.

You also can bring your bike to a mechanic who has a diagnostic tool (like Sun Tester) which has an oscilloscope.

Connecting it to the bike's ignition cables (the guy will know where) the screen will show what the problem is (primary cable, coil, secondary cable, plug, spark plug).

If that cannot be performed or you don't want to, you have to go to a dealer.

 

Well I got out the multimeter. The coil and cap check out OK :

Ignition coil resistance:

Primary = 4.0 ohms (supposed to be 2-5 ohms)
Secondary = 27.93 ohms (supposed to be 24-37 ohms)

The secondary is from the end of the plug cap to the + terminal on the coil. But, if I go from end of plug cap to -- terminal, I get the same reading. Does that mean anything?

This is shown on page 8-26 of the service manual.

 

WOW , Your a friggin mechanical geenis , I wouldn't have a clue to where to look. Mokus sugested switch the coils . is that possible? :?

maybe you need to scare it with a ramp to the truck again :shock:

 

WOW , Your a friggin mechanical geenis , I wouldn't have a clue to where to look. Mokus sugested switch the coils . is that possible? :?

maybe you need to scare it with a ramp to the truck again :shock:

I don't have any constructive suggestions here but a question:

I have seen Ignition coil issues in VW's (I used to havea demo Jetta that was afflicted and My GTI VR6 had the issue). VW recalled the ignition coils and replaced them. I sell Porsches for a living and I think we had some bad ignition coils as well in the past. I think I have heard of some other cars being affected with Ignition coil issues.

I know that there are only so many suppliers for a lot of the common parts used around the world.. do we maybe have an issue with coils in our bikes?

..Tom