Does it only bog down at idle or low revs, only at high revs or across the board? What year is your 650 and how many miles are on it?

 

it's an '07 with about 34000 miles. To add info and potential embarrassment, the valves haven't been adjusted. I really gotta do that.

Sometimes while sitting at a light it happens. Sometimes on acceleration from a light. Less often but still happens when cruising at mid-RPM range. It doesn't happen when cruising at high speed.

Usually I can fight my way through it by grabbing clutch and revving the engine for 5-10 seconds. Of course the engine takes off when it gets fuel again. It's almost binary.

Is there something in the electronics at the fuel injector that could tell it to shut off temporarily?

 

me too

I have a K8 and when I get down to 3-4 litres left then when I
decelerate to nearly a stop, the motor cuts out. It fires immediately
when I hit the starter. Haven't noticed this at higher speeds or
with more fuel in the tank.

 

I have a K8 and when I get down to 3-4 litres left then when I
decelerate to nearly a stop, the motor cuts out. It fires immediately
when I hit the starter. Haven't noticed this at higher speeds or
with more fuel in the tank.

It could need a TPS adjustment or a new TPS.

Symptoms Stalling after long highway cruise.

Adjustment http://www.stromtrooper.com/v-strom...com/v-strom-service-maintenance-questions-discussions/22789-tps-adjustment.html

Suzuki lists an upgraded TPS part number for K7 through K9 650s that seem more prone to the problem. 13580-27G21 (replaces 13580-27G20)

 

If I were you, I'd try a new throttle position sensor. It's basically a potentiometer. It sounds like the low side on yours isn't in good shape. It's like the volume knob on an old radio that isn't linear or has poor contact in one area and you have to wiggle it for the volume to work at some levels.

 

I didn't find one on bikebandit's schematics.

Are there some other things I could try before spending ~$150.


Something else that maybe is irrelevant: this problem started last year when the temps dropped, and again this year. All summer I had no problem, or almost none. Now that I'm riding in the 50s and 60s it acts up more.

 

A bad TPS is often temperature sensitive, although usually to heat. The fiche at MrCycles*Honda*Kawasaki Polaris*Suzuki*Yamaha*Motorcycles ATVS Scooters Utility Vehicles lists 13580-27G21 (replaces 13580-27G20) at under $80. It is the lower #6 on the diagram. The upper #6 is the STPS. Bikebandit shows it for a little more at

13580 27G21 - BikeBandit.com

 

Thank you. I was looking for "throttle position sensor" because I didn't know what the part looked like.

Your link has some similar stories. Seems the '07 year wasn't good for the TPS.

 

It's not definitive but only an educated guess. It's what I would try. 07 DL650 Stalling - HELP!! - ADVrider is about an '07, but '07-'09 Wees have the same part number. '11s have the new part number.

 

They finally arrived yesterday. I installed the new TPS along with a new battery. Now I have the FI light on but it starts and runs rock solid.

 

What is the code on the FI light? Chances are you missed an airbox connection when you put things back together.

 

I hope that was your problem. But if it persists, I would be looking at the front spark plug connection. Moisture can get in there and cause corrosion, or a resistor can go bad in the spark plug cap on some bikes. Check the simple things.

Intermittent stuff sucks though, sometimes replacing parts is the only thing to try.

 

Simple things like that case very poor running but do not throw
FI codes. Here, running is okay but a code is present, most likely indicating a sensor reading is out of range.

 

There can be no error codes or the TPS cannot be adjusted. With no error codes, the dealer mode will reveal a c00 in the clock position. The TPS needs to be adjusted so the dash in front of the c00 is in the middle position at idle, -c00. The low position looks like _c00 for example. I guess it may be possible for the TPS to be so badly out of adjustment it gives an error code but I've never heard of that before.

Anyhow, once you get the c00 to appear, the TPS needs to be adjusted so the dash is centered at idle, -c00. The best operation comes when the dash raises to the top at about 2500rpm on a DL650. TPS adjustment is a ridiculously delicate operation. Keeping the screw snug but not tight and tapping the TPS body lightly to move it slightly seems the best method. Then pray tightening the screw doesn't change the adjustment. I'd be happy with anything from 2000-3000rpm raising the bar. The service manual only specifies the dash be centered at idle so you may be satisfied with that. The check has to be done slowly. It takes a good half second in a new rpm range for the bar to respond and move.

 

Thanks for the help. I am able to get a no code status.

When I adjust the TPS though, it never gets from _c00 to -c00, even fully against the stop. I can't get the bar to move up even at high RPMs. Basically, it always stays at _. If I adjust it the other way the bike dies quickly.

I'm not sure what to do with it. Maybe buy another and return this one? At least it's not throwing a code. Or is there something else I may have missed?

 

What year is your bike? Stalling is common when moving a TPS from _c00 to -c00 if the idle speed is not changed to compensate. '06 and earlier 650s and all 1000s have an idle speed control. Later model 650s have a reset procedure. Increase the idle speed when moving the TPS lowers it to maintain a proper idle speed. On later 650s, there is a procedure to reset the idle speed.

1) Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
2) Remove the seat.
3) Put the bike in dealer mode. FAQ: Dealer Mode & FI Error Codes
4) Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
5) Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
6) Then, wait more than 5 seconds.
The ISC valve automatically is set at the PRE-SET position.
7) Take the bike out of dealer mode.

Idle will be at ~1300rpm again.

It may take several steps of moving the TPS until the idle speed starts to drop, then doing the reset if your bike is 2007 or later or adjusting the idle speed otherwise, before getting a -c00 . This assumes your new TPS isn't faulty.

 

That was very helpful. Thank you. I've only worked on carbureted bikes in the past, so these things are new to me.



The bike is running well in my garage, and I was able to adjust the TPS so that the dash raises to the top at about 2300 RPM. It doesn't take much to change things dramatically.


Now to take it out for a ride and see if the stalling is gone.

 

2300rpm is a good point. Mine is at 2500rpm and I like it. It's the most fiddly adjustment I've ever made on a machine. A tiny increment makes a large difference.

 

It does. I rode the bike today but not long distances. Those corners where I expect subconsciously to have the bike falter were smooth. I think this was the fix. Long ride this weekend will answer for sure.

:hurray: