Sounds like one of the air box connectors is not making contact. I suggest that you recheck all the connections under the air box, that you removed. While you are in there, check the hoses as well. Error code should clear once ECU see everything is making contact again

 

Turning the key of should clear all current codes. A reader is required to look at past history codes.
The fault recuring at switch on means it is still there.

Cheers Tom R

 

All the connections are tight and all relavent parts pass the multimeter test. One dealer assured me the fault will dissappear within 50 miles of riding. I will find out today.

 

So after a 20ish mile ride the fault was still showing, but I pulled over, put it in dealer mode and the code was now C00 (instead of C21). This allowed me to wipe out the fault by turning bike on/off while still in dealer mode.

Problem solved!

 

When al else fails, read the instructions (either handbook or https://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,7061.0.html)

 

When al else fails, read the instructions

That was Step 1, but the code didn't clear out after executing the listed process. I guess I had to prove to the bike via a short ride that all was well.

 

My mistake then. Never had to take the bike for a ride to clear any F1 display before. Mine was a simple switch ignition on (in dealer mode), switch ignition off, switch ignition on, switch ignition off, remove dealer mode switch, look for any F1 code display when ignition on, done and dusted. Must be a difference between the old and new model.
PS I read that dealer mode can be switched while the ignition is in the on position, without any mishap.

 

I've just had an FI episode with my 2018 DL650. Dropped the bike at low speed whilst manoeuvring at low speed (sigh). The left handlebar copped the bang and I found the hand guard had been pushed up.
I pulled it back into position and started the bike - all good. As we set off home the engine cut-out for no apparent reason, but started again and seemed fine. A few minutes later I noticed the FI indication alternating with the Odometer and the Engine light was on steadily. Pulled over to give the bike a quick once-over and found nothing wrong, so we set off home by the shortest route.
Got home and googled how to get into dealer mode and found I had C65 - engine idle fault. Some sites mentioned it related to TPS and GPS faults, but another site mentioned the Clutch sensor and I thought AHA! - the clutch sensor may have been bumped by the hand-guard. Sure enough - there it was pushed off toward the front of the bike so that the sensor was no longer aligned to the clutch lever. (It's only held by 1 screw and a plastic locator that sits in a hole near the clutch lever). I put everything back as it should be and started the bike for a short time, then put the bike into dealer mode with the engine stopped - FI was still there and C65.
A bit more googling, and this thread indicated to me that I needed to cycle through dealer mode with a WARM ENGINE. Rode to work this morning - took the seat off, while the engine was still running and put her into dealer mode - C65. Switched off the engine, then turned the ignition on again and got - C00 and no FI/engine light. A great relief to know that these things can be fixed without resorting to going to the dealer or buying "fault clearing" gadgets
Thanks to all who came before me, I trust my tail lights will help the next rider.

 

THANK YOU! This post was just what I needed. My bike went out from under me yesterday. 'T' intersection, all paved, but there was spilled gravel I didn't notice until after it went down. Didn't think there was much damage but the FI code and engine light came on before I got home. I found your post right away and followed your steps exactly. C65 popped up in dealer mode, clutch switch was out of position. Repositioned the clutch switch, went for a 50 km ride in dealer mode. Removed jumper afterwards and turned the bike off and on. Engine light and FI gone. Problem solved! This forum is the best thing ever.

 

I have DL650XT 2020, The only way I could clear the fault seemed to be to ride with it in dealer mode (as mentioned by other people). Short distance. Then turn off and on again - all clear. I had installed an ABS cut off switch. The way I installed it means that it shuts off the rear and front speed sensors. This means no speedo when riding with ABS off. No issue as on dirt tracks any way. However I have now found that any sort of distance will cause it to show an FI fault for both sensors. Even when I turn ABS back on and the speedo reengages and sensors are working again.

So now I have mad a simple jumper wire for "dealer mode" for use on the go. Bit of a pain but good to know what warnings your getting and how simple it is to find out if they are serious or not. Don't even need to risk the ride home now to find out. Just the ride to a good mobile signal... lol

 

...... I had installed an ABS cut off switch. The way I installed it means that it shuts off the rear and front speed sensors. This means no speedo when riding with ABS off. No issue as on dirt tracks any way. However I have now found that any sort of distance will cause it to show an FI fault for both sensors. .......

Matt,
My solution to disable ABS (MY 2017) was to put an interrupt switch on the rear ABS sensor line. The system only needs to see a short term interruption to disable the ABS system. If I want to be in (edit) NON ABS mode I try to open the cct before engine start and then close it before I ride off. This means ABS is disabled for that ignition cycle but traction control (if wanted and enabled) and speedo, odo etc still work. You can also hit the interrupt switch during riding but I have had that latch an F1 occasionally. FWIW once cct are back to normal the code will disappear after several (maybe 4 to 6) ignition cycles.

 

Matt the speedo not working means you have cut the power to the wrong part of the ABS, you say thats OK but having the FI come up is not great, you may get a real FI and just assume it's the false one you created.

 

hi.
on my dl250 v-strom of 2021 I had the FI error on display after I disconnected the 2 ABS fuses and ride it without speedometer. I followed the tips to activate the Dealer Mode (DM) and found out the error was the C91.
To clear the error FI from the display:
1. entered the DM;
2. rode the motorcycle for 10 kms with the c91 on display;
3. stopped it and disconnected the DM;
4. rode the motorcycle for 27 kms with the FI on display;
5. stopped for arround 1h30;
6. connected the DM before switching the motorcycle on;
7. switched it on and the display showed c00;
8. disconnected the DM and there was no error displayed on normal mode.

Then, I've removed only the 25A (ABS-m) fuse, that disconnected the ABS only but still got the speedometer working, with no errors.
Hope this helps everyone who want to get the ABS off and to get rid of the FI error!