No one can help with this vague statement. You need to clearly describe the symptoms and what you have tried. "It wouldn't read electricity at all" is meaningless. Key on nothing, completely dead? Battery voltage with key off? Press starter nothing happens? Did you do the Battery/Stator/RR work? If not take it back to whoever did the work, it sounds like something shorted out but without out more details that is just a guess.

 

I’m apologize for the vagueness. I’m learning here and still figuring out vocabulary. Lots of YouTube trying to pick up terms.
Key on and turned, nothing on the dash comes on, nothing from the kill switch, or ignition switch. It’s completely dead. A friend and I did the previous work. I had the battery charged and checked, but perhaps should go back and recheck the other two units. Thank you for your time.

 

give the battery a good full charge before you try again. If lucky, you only smelled arcing in the starter switch due to low voltage

 

I was hoping for that, but after a full charge still nada. Thank you for the tip though.

 

Thank you for the tips. Main fuse is fine, and I tested all the other fuses as well just to confirm.
Double checked the r/r wiring as well. No obvious shorts or crispy bits.
Still nothing with the key in, even with the r/r unplugged.
I think I’m probably going to double check the stator, make sure I didn’t burn it out like the one that was on the bike when I bought it. If that doesn’t work I’ll try to get it to a proper shop. Thank you for your help. I did actually learn quite a bit.

 

Thank you for the tips. Main fuse is fine, and I tested all the other fuses as well just to confirm. Double checked the r/r wiring as well. No obvious shorts or crispy bits. Still nothing with the key in, even with the r/r unplugged. I think I’m probably going to double check the stator, make sure I didn’t burn it out like the one that was on the bike when I bought it. If that doesn’t work I’ll try to get it to a proper shop. Thank you for your help. I did actually learn quite a bit.

A dead stator won't cause your problems. I hate to ask but when you say "key in" you mean key in and turned to the right, i.e. key on? The battery is confirmed to be fully charged but you get no lights, completely dead, nothing? That is very strange situation if the main fuse is good but it should be easy to troubleshoot. I hate to ask this too but are you sure that you tested the main fuse and not the spare main fuse? These fuses are not in the fuse box but next to the starter solenoid.

If the battery has power there are only a few things that can cause this. My best guess is that you have no ground to the engine. The ground connector on the rear of the engine are known to corrode and break off. When you turned the key and tried to start it then 30A went through a second smaller wire on the negative terminal to the battery that powers all the electrics and that is what fried. I would check the ground wire at the battery terminal and see if the smaller black wire fried or got unplugged where it plugs into the main harness. Also follow the thick black cable on the battery to its termination on the rear of the engine and see if it tight and not corroded.

 

Be there a problem or not with the rectifier, the ignition should still light up the instruments and the fuel pump should prime.
If the battery is fully charged (how many volts does your meter show) and the bike is electrically dead when the key is turned on (no lights or sweeping instruments) then the fault, whatever the electrical burning may be, is most likely in the fuses, especially the 30amp main one.

You need to make allowances when saying the battery and fuses are fine as we really do not know how you came to that conclusion, Many times in the past the obvious answer, although said to be OK by the owner, turns out to be correct.

I suggest that you buy 2 new 30 amp fuses - unless you checked them with a meter.
However this only gets your ignition back. The smell of burnt electricals usually means serious component breakdown.
Can you smell burnt wiring when you remove the rotor/stator cover? If so it will need to be done again.

You need to identify the burnt component before trying again as the same will occur.

 

May I recommend that you make use of a test lamp, preferably a headlight bulb in a test lamp.
Easy to mock up your own DIY test lamp. Using a headlight, solder or use a spade connector to connect one lead to the bulb filament common and another lead to either of the other tags. (only one of the three connector tags is the common tag) It doesn't matter whether you connect to the high or low beam side of the bulb. It is the resistance of the headlight bulb that you are looking for. Any bulb with less resistance may not show up a bad / low restance connection or if a feed via a secondary component.

Connect one end of the test lamp to the positive terminal of the battery and with the other lead, check for a negative supply on the starter motor or an engine bolt. Next would be to pull a headlight connector and check if there is any common negative / earth at the healight commector. Each time the test lamp lights up, you have proved that you have located a negative feed from theon both the motor and headlight connector back to the battery negative terminal.

Once you have established that the neagtive / earth common is present, connect the test lamp lead to the negative side of the battery and turn on the ignition switch. With the second test lead start checking for the various postive feed points.

A circuit diagram would be handy to varify where you should be picking up a positive once the ignition is on. A circuit diagram is attached in reply #3 of https://www.stromtrooper.com/thread...s/where-does-this-connector-plug-in-on-a-2006-dl650-vstrom.442314/#post-5682075, in case you don't have access to a wiring diagram.

Please provide feed back on any progress or findings.

 

The 30a fuse is the more likely issue.

Do you have 12.8v to the and 12.8v out the other side.

After the fuse the ignition switch is next.