I've always used an automotive fuse block and a relay. I'm handy with wiring so it works for me. Cost is around $20.

 

Yeah, that’s one of the DIY options I’m considering.

 

Neutrino Black Box. Completely customizable. very reliable

 

I appreciate the input, but that’s WAY more than I need.

 

it will automatically increase the heat of our heated vest according to the outside temperature. Everybody needs that

 

Centech makes a fuse panel (The Centech AP-2) that some guys have used on their motorcycles. I've heard some complaints that the fuses aren't as tight as they should be, but I don't have any experience with them. It's about $56.00.

Blue Sea makes several different fuse blocks that are pretty well regarded. They make a six circuit block that goes about $35.00. They aren't as compact as a PC8, but motorcyclists do use them.

 

Blade fuses come in three sizes. I ordered a 6 terminal fuse block for the mini size. 10 bucks and change straight from China. I'll let you know how cheesy or not cheesy it is. You can't be in a hurry for stuff imported from China.

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It looks suspiciously like this $32 unit from Ebay:

JT&T Six Position ATC/ATO Fuse Block 50286245466 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for JT&T Six Position ATC/ATO Fuse Block at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

This is the one I got. I mounted it in the tail section. I cut those mounting tabs off for the California CARB stuff as I have a Wisconsin- spec bike; runs on beer & cheese soup. 😛
The unit is well made, quality hardware, and has a snap on cover. I used #10 AWG wire and loop eyelets to hook it up to the battery.

 

I have the Eastern Beaver PC-8 but my second choice would have been a Blue Seas.

 

If you want something really tiny and do some assembly, for 3 switched outlets, need to wire the relay yourself: MP280 Fuse Boxes

I squeezed this one in besides the rear tank bracket so the already small under seat compartment is clear of wiring (except for my cruise control computer).

 

I appreciate all of the input. Looks like there are a lot of options out there. The more I think about it, the more I think I'm leaning towards the PC-8. If I understand correctly, it's pretty much a plug-and-play solution. As I understand it, the PC-8 comes with connectors that allow quick connection the bike's existing wiring, leaving you to just connect to the battery and to a switched power source. Do I have that right?

A question about the more "generic" options (like the Blue Sea, for example), I see they offer versions with and without a negative bus. On the versions without connectors for the negative leads...what's up with that? What is one expected to do with the (-) side of any powered accessory?? Is the idea to just run the (+) wire to the fuse block, and connect the (-) side to any available GND point on the bike?

 

Yes. You can ground each accessory to a suitable ground point where each accessory mounts or bring all your ground wires back to one central ground location. Makes no difference as long as you have a good ground.

 

I don't think you can go wrong with a PC-8, in spite of the expense. I put one on my DL650 back around 2013, took it out when I traded the bike, and then installed it in my current Super Tenere. Yes, it's designed to be plug and play; they make the trigger wire and relay harness for each specific bike, and you just plug this into a designated existing connector on the bike (no splicing or Positaps necessary).

I don't know anything about the various Blue Seas products, but the 5025 appears to be the one that riders use. I've seen photos of them installed on bikes, and they all have a positive and negative bus. Blue Sea really isn't a generic fuseblock; I believe they sell a lot of them in the RV and boating industry. The only reason I chose the PC-8 over the Blue Sea was that the PC-8 was smaller, and came with a premade wiring/relay harness that made them fairly idiot-proof for installation. If I recall correctly, Greywolf had a Blue Sea on his bike, which is a pretty good endorsement.

 

The pig tail prevent cutting into wires. Very useful.

Gebildet 4pcs 12V 24V Add-a-Circuit Micro 2 Fuse Tap, Piggy Back Blade Fuse Holder with Wire Harness, 6 pcs Micro 2 Fuse (5A 10A 15A) and Fuse Puller : Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement

Gebildet 4pcs 12V 24V Add-a-Circuit Micro 2 Fuse Tap, Piggy Back Blade Fuse Holder with Wire Harness, 6 pcs Micro 2 Fuse (5A 10A 15A) and Fuse Puller : Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement

www.amazon.ca

 

I've used the PC-8, Fuzeblock, Blue Sea, and the offshore aftermarket ones with and without the integrated ground bus. Each has merit. The PC-8 is a nice compact unit that has switched and non-switched circuits, and an integral ground bus. The Blue Sea product is generally a power bus only but can have both ground and power bus, and is a bit pricey but good quality. The PC-8, Blue Sea and offshore aftermarket unit need to be powered from a relay. The Fuzeblock is very compact unit with an integrated ground and power bus with an integral relay - this company does not ship to Canada. Great for applications where space is at a premium. I have the Fuzeblock on my 1500 because of this reason. I prefer the aftermarket offshore integrated power and ground bus fuseblocks, choice of size and price is very good. Being in Canada have to consider exchange, duty, taxes and such - increases the cost of doing business most of the time.

 

As others have noted the PC-8 kit has everything you need, plug it in and play. I found the grounding on or near the mounting point to be iffy at times. And since I have to route one wire to the fuse block, I route both wires back to the PC-8.

 

As others have noted the PC-8 kit has everything you need, plug it in and play. I found the grounding on or near the mounting point to be iffy at times. And since I have to route one wire to the fuse block, I route both wires back to the PC-8.

I agree. My preference would be to run both wires back to fuse block.

 

PC8 is worth the price and the wait, total plug and play and works as advertised.

 

Yeah, I'm pretty sure I'm going with the PC-8.

 

Again, and this is not for the discussion starter, cause he said he's not interested, the neutrino Black Box, is smaller than those others, has negative connections, customizable computerized fuses, a lead specifically for a battery tender built in, a temperature sensor to control various outputs, a light varying module that can be used to cycle your headlight or brake light for better conspicuity, can handle over 60 amps and is programmable off your cell phone. It makes a PC-8 look a 1986 Ford crown Victoria. Oh, and it's dead nuts reliable and doesn't need any external fusing whatsoever.

Neutrino Motorcycle Black Box | Motorcycle Mojo Magazine

In this month's issue of Motorcycle Mojo magazine, we have a detailed review of the Neutrino motorcycle black box. Click here to read about it today.

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PC-8 (~$65) v. Neutrino Element ($250) and Aurora ($350) -- not sure I'd bother paying 4x - 6x. While really neat, it seems like a solution in search of a problem.

TLDR

The Element at 4x provides a couple extra features which can be addressed readily with cheap, readily available and reliable parts (switches, dimmers). Other than that, it seems otherwise unnecessarily complicated. Using a phone to make changes to circuit breaker types (fixed v. variable) and thresholds (2A, 5A, 10A, etc.) would be really convenient...if I needed to change them regularly and didn't want to pull off the seat and PC-8 cover every time I make a change. But I've had the same size fuses and light / heated gear PWM dimmers for years.

The Aurora at 6x the cost provides some neat additional capability, but again, all are easily and inexpensively addressed with switches, dimmers, and other bits and pieces (e.g. brake flasher).

When it comes to automation, the most useful I can think of is toggling aux fog / driving light intensity based on time of day -- brighter during the day, dimmer at night. A simple $6 switch will do that for me, albeit with the inconvenience of moving my finger a bit to flip a switch but also the ability to easily toggle it ad hoc (e.g. in a dark thunderstorm) without a phone interface.

Similar issues with automation for heated gear. I don't always want the same amount of heat at the same temp / speed / time of day. The automation logic for heated gear won't take into account on any given day my clothes, gear, wind speed and direction, whether I'm feeling otherwise chilled after working outside or if I'm not feeling well, etc. Sure, I could use my phone to control the heated gear temps manually, but it's far easier to just spin the knob on my controller (which is accessible inside my handlebar muffs) v. accessing my phone to do so.

Anyway, neat product. But doesn't seem all that practical or useful to me, especially at the relatively high price.

 

FZ1 Fuzeblock

Built in 30 amp relay
6 fused circuits
Trigger wire
Also by simply moving a fuse L/R you can make that circuit keyed or continuous power. It is also very compact.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiH6K_S94jvAhXng-AKHVe1C0wQFjAAegQIBhAD&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.fuzeblocks.com%2FFuzeblocks-FZ-1-Distribution-Block_p_1.html&usg=AOvVaw2f-WuBqlsUp3b0xzU8kQ2q

 

Funny.... I thought this thread would provide a bit more clarity. It seems every option on the planet has been discussed with no consensus, but the PC-8 does seem to have a lead.
1986 Crown Victoria... sweet! I owned 2 1988 Chevy Caprice cop cars. They were the best vehicles I ever owned.
I think thirdofthree makes some great arguments for the ability to have analog controls.

 

I think becasue the PC-8 is more commonly known it is the fuse panel of choice by default. That doesn't make it better it just makes them another choice.

 

I use FZ-1 Fuzeblocks on my bikes. I like being able to choose switched or unswitched easily. Relay is incorporated.
I will be honest and say that I haven't tried the others so I can't really compare. Tried the FZ-1 first, liked it and kept with it. One has about 250,000 miles on it and has not given me a minutes trouble. The other 2 don't have near the miles, but one has been pretty well "used" on my V-strom on rough gravel and dirt trails. No issues yet.

 

I had bought a Seahorse fuse block and even tried another somewhat smaller fuse block and did not like the bulkiness of either. Then I found the FZ1 and was hooked. The integral relay with power trigger sold me. When it arrived I was extremely happy with diminutive size. . As for the Plug-N-Play folks of you can crimp or solder on 2 ring terminals and use a Posi-Tap to tie in the trigger you all set. They really are as P-N-P as anything else.

Even better is they are $89 bucks so cheap enough new but the 3 I've bought I put a WTB ad on Adv Rider and within a day or two I had someone willing to sell for usually no more than $55 shipped, sometimes less.

If anyone buys a FZ1 and is not comfortable installing ring terminals I can make you are harness as seen in the picture for the cost of shipping. Either use as is or you could also cut the R/B/Y wires shorter that go into the FZ1 for a custom fit. The pigtails are intentionally made long for mutiple applications.

R/B/Y to the FZ1. Tighten into terminal block with a screwdriver

R/B ring terminals to the battery posts

Yellow wire to to a keyed power source. Posi-Taps work well for this. No cutting needed just screw together.

No cutting, splicing or soldering. Plug-N-Play

Done

 

Actually, the V-Strom specific PC-8 kit, with relay and plug-and-play connectors is $112 plus shipping. but even at that, that’s what I think I’m going to get.

 

In the end, the deciding factor to go with the Fuzeblock FZ-1 was the ability to easily change a circuit from switched to unswitched. I could envision a scenario where I'd like to temporarily put my Garmin GPS on an always-hot connection in order to charge it or use it with the bike off.

 

third of three. I am really happy to not have any analog dimmers, and switches. Indeed, that was the whole point. Not having to turn on said dimmers and switches cause my heated gear comes on automatically and is adjusted automatically rather than fumbling with gloves to adjust the heat is worth the cost of admissions. Besides, if you've checked the cost of those analog switches, they are not cheap. Throw in the fact that I don't need a headlight modulator anymore and, if you want just those two features — dimmable heat out put and a headlight modulator — the Neutrino is cheap than the alternatives. Now if all you want is a fuse box, don't mind the aforementioned fumbling with heat controllers and don't want a headlight modulator, then your financial assessment is correct. But wait there's more, it has a built in voltmeter — another thing you don't need to buy — eliminates need for all relays and, because it's hooked up to your phone's GPS, always reads you're actual mph, again eliminating the need for yet another add on or accessory. I agree with your assessment of initial cost, but package versus package, if you're doing anything more than just hooking cup auxiliary lights, the neutrino is simpler to wire, eliminates all extraneous switchgear, relays and hookups and, as mentioned above, can be cheaper in the long run.

 

Motocanada -- all good points. The Neutrino obviously isn't a good fit for me for the reasons I mentioned above (and more that aren't worth delving into at this point). Glad we have so many choices!

 

Indeed, it is good. Good luck with your install

 

What I think is that this is an excellent thread. From there it depends on several factors that come up all the time in owners electrical projects. Electrical needs, electrical understanding, and budget. There is no one answer for all people. But for those that feel challenged by electrical projects Eastern Beaver provides a near fool proof and tidy solution. And if you are not challenged by electrical wiring projects and on a budget clear choices as well.