Thanks for such a clear explanation. Can we please get this as a sticky?

 

Absolutely...sticky this.....another of Handyhikers fine work for the good of the group!!

 

Thanks

That's about the most cool post I've seen this year. So many posts are focused on the PC and the primary throttle plates. I can't wait for the weater to clear so I can try adjusting mine.

 

Great job Handyhiker, nice, simple and straightforward!

 

adj

Good job on the pics!! For those of a more sporting nature, I have an alternate adjustment method. Carefully remove the 4 screws that hold the sec. plates & remove the plates. Result: much better bottom end torque and no more adjustments! The prim. TB adj. is still a must, however.

 

Good job on the pics!! For those of a more sporting nature, I have an alternate adjustment method. Carefully remove the 4 screws that hold the sec. plates & remove the plates. Result: much better bottom end torque and no more adjustments! The prim. TB adj. is still a must, however.

No...you should gain more low end torque with "properly adjusted" sencondary plates in. Plates "out" you get a bigger mid/high rush with no speed or RPM restrictions. I'm pretty sure that I have less low end torque with my plates out, but my bike runs well without them. I may put mine back in and try this adjustment......because I fully believe the folks that have done this with positive results.

Thanks again Ken for taking the time to put this thread together.

 

Great job

Thanks a million

 

I can't seem to find any posts on syncing the Wee's throttle bodies. I would like to check the sync on my bike as well as adjust the secondaries, however I don't have the factory manual yet, and the owner's manual says nothing about synching the TBs. I have done it on other bikes, but I wanted to see if there were any quirks to the DL650 and where the ports are that I can hook my Sync tubes to. Anyone ever post a how to on this? If so can you point me to it?

Thanks.

 

I pulled the plates when I bought the bike. Read all the threads and decided I needed to do it. The bike ran OK. A little rough on the bottem end, but all in all, good. After reinstalling the plates and adjusting them, the motor is MUCH smoother under 4000 RPM and can and is riden in the 2500 to 3500 RPM range most of the time.
Every one buys a motorcycle for different reasons. Even the same bike can fit many styles. That is what makes the Vee or Wee so wonderful. I did not buy the Vee for a wheely or race bike. I bought it for the comfort and style. In my riding style, I am much more interested in the smoothness and rideability of the bike vs the all out performance. To me, if the bike is smoother and gets better milage, that's a plus. Lets face it, it is still a liter twin with around 95hp.
They say that the plates will restrict the output of the motor, maybe it does. From my butt dyno, I can't tell a difference. Maybe on the track or drag strip, but in the real world I can't. I just know the bike runs better the way I ride with them in and adjusted properly.

 

On the subject of adjusting the secondary throttle plates, how about adjusting the secondary throttle position sensor? Persumably this should be right from the factory and not need fiddling with thereafter, same as the TPS. Back in the real world, however...

Page 4-68 of the (K2) service manual details this procedure - a multimeter will be required.

 

The service manual is a copyrighted work. It's a legal issue to post links to it here. Please remove the link before this site gets in trouble.

 

Seems to me the copyright trouble would be with the guy who scanned it and made it available on the web, and it's been up for like 5 years now, but OK. An electronic copy like that is hardly a substitute for a hard copy, but as an occasional reference it's OK.

 

I'd like to know what, if any, effect this has had on fuel mileage. Has this cured anyone's nagging low MPG problem?

My new '06 has 1600 miles on it, and I'm getting about 40/50 mpg city/hwy. I'm looking for that missing 5 or so mpg...

 

My secondaries are adjusted and I still don't get 50mpg. Maybe it is the gas up here, but my best is around 44-45.

 

A BIG pat on the back to Handyhiker...

and Firedog45. Steve came over the other day to "assist" me in changing plugs, clean air filter and adjust secondaries. Let me re-phrase that, I assisted Steve. All I can say is WOW!!! I felt my 071k ran pretty darn smooth to begin with, but this latest adjustment made a considerable difference. So thanks a bunch to Handy for the enlightenment and Steve for always giving me a hand when in need. I know I'm not the only one he continues to "help out" on a regular basis. So once again thank you to you both!

Tony

 

Hello

I found the thread to be very helpful in syncing the secondary throttle valves (STV) on my 650.

Here are some photos for you wee owners.

I was able to move the airbox for this adjustment by removing only one hose. The most forward left hose on the side of the box. After you remove this the airbox will move out of your way as pictured below.

This is the shaft you must turn by hand to close and open the valves.

Here are the screws to adjust the valves.

I know the manual doesn't say to adjust for the front valve but it's good to know you can adjust it if for some reason it wasn't even after you manually closed the valves. (mine was fine)

I was able to tune the valves to about one tenths of a millimeter with my depth gauge.

I've mostly read about DL1000 owners syncing the STV but I want to urge 650 owners to do this too. I felt a definite improvement in my 2000-4000 rpm range. After re-syncing the Primary throttle valves the bike was overall smoother.

I used to have to feather the clutch a lot in traffic or slow riding due to the throttle being a bit snatchy and jerky, but now I can ride slow with just a careful throttle. (of course it's still an L twin and still feels like one, but it's improved)

I also got some of the best millage ever after a half day of SPIRITED riding (50mpg)
Definitely worth doing this adjustment!

 

Hope I got this right

Hello

This is the shaft you must turn by hand to close and open the valves.

I was able to tune the valves to about one tenths of a millimeter with my depth gauge.

Thanks Bry Wang for photos. I wanted to do secondaries while changing air filter, plugs, TBS, and check valves for the first time since I bought 06. I measured mine with digital calipers in closed and near closed postions and ended up with the same very tiny screw adjustment. I don't think my instruments is as good as dial in your photo but at least it repeated the adjusment so I guess mine did not need it much.

So when done I just rotated the screw to open them all the way. I want to make sure that was correct. I thought I saw that shop manual talks about checking signal related to that screw but I assume full open was where I started to the screw stop.

Maybe I shouldn't start working on the bike on a Friday after work as I might be overthinking this but I just turned the screw to open them without checking if it was at full stop when I started.. [sort of weird day - I had bought new K&N air filter to put in and PO had already installed one but I don't remember him mentioning it or listing it in his add - so I guess I have two now]

 

Try the .020, .024, .028, .032. Then try inserting the wire between the throttle plate and the air horn while holding the linkage in the closed position.

Can someone tell me what the air horn is???

thanks

Dan

 

thanks for the write up BryWang. Is it true that you cannot do the STS on the 650 07 and newer? These can only be done at the Suzuki shop now?

 

TVS with manometer

I just got my Wee and getting familiar with maintenance procedures. I see the procedure in the shop manual for throttle valve sychronization. I was planning to use my homemade manometer I use for my old BMW airhead to sync TV at idle.

This is probably a dumb question but is the secondary manual adjustment shown above doing the same thing or should I perform the above adjustment first prior to the TV procedure using the vacuum gauge.

Nice pictures above - thanks.

 

The above adjustment is for the SECONDARY throttle plates ( the ones you can see at the outside opening
of the throttle body). They need to be checked/adjusted first. If they are off, it would reduce the
effectiveness of your TBS adjustment.

Then do the TBS (throttle body syncronization) which consists of adjusting the PRIMARY throttle plates.

 

On a DL 1000 what is the magic number? I used .025. It was orginally .039.
What is the number from the top of air horn to the secondary?



Les

 

There is no correct #. Whether you measure from the top of the throttle body to the opening edge
of the butterfly, or clearance from the opening edge of the butterfly to the inside wall of the throttle
body, they are 'balanced' when they are 'the same'.

When riding, the ECU (computer) will use a stepper motor on the linkage you are adjusting to open or
close them. The idea is to have them open/close as nearly the same as possible.

On the DL1000, you make the adjustment on the front throttle body linkage screw to match the opening
at the rear. The measurement you take at the rear throttle body is the measurement you'll use to adjust
clearance at the front throttle body.

 

Huh?

I held down the linkage on the rear body. The gap on the front and the rear are now the same.
You can have an equal gap at 039 or 025. The question is are you trying to get the gap closer to zero and equal or just equal?
If the gap doesn't make a difference. Will the bike be smoother if the gap is closer.
My bike runs much smoother at idle to the 4600 rpm's. The 4600 to 5800 seems not as smooth since secondaries adjust/TBS.
Did I do the secondaries correctly?





Les

 

secondaries on 2008 DL650

Hi all,
Going through this thread to adjust my secondaries, and have some questions.
I have an 08 DL650, which doesn't match any of the pictures in this thread.
The stepper motor, and the adjustment screw for the secondaries in located on the rear TB.

(no other photos here at work) (How do post larger photos on here?)
If I press and hold the linkage attachment on the front TB to close the secondaries, there is a little give which allows me to close the front secondary a slight amount after the rear one quits moving.
I just want to see if my thinking is correct here...

I close the secondaries by pressing the 'rear' secondary(actual place that I press is hidden by the electrical connection above the adjusting screw in the above photo), not touching the connecting rod to the front secondary.
Make my adjustments to the front secondary by turning the adjusting screw.

If I try to press the front secondaries (or linkage between the two TB's) to hold them closed, I risk closing the front secondary farther than the stepper motor and linkage would actually close it.
The linkage and all moving parts are tight, and the give is supposed to be there as far as I can tell. Feels like a spring compressing when I move past the point of closure on the rear secondary

Does this sound right?
Sorry if this doesn't make sense, I am at work and only have a few minutes to post this. I can follow up with more photos without the airbox if needed.

Thanks
Bret

 

Unless you have a problem you are trying to fix, I would recommend not fixing something that isn't broken. The only remarks on the subject in the '07 manual is not to touch them. If you must, the method for older models is to use a wire or a new drill bit shank as a measuring tool to get both butterflies at the same opening.

 

I agree with greywolf partly. "If it ain't broke don't fix it" goes a long way. I was told by many people on this forum not to mess with my valves since they normally are not a problem. My valves were so far off it was unbelieveable. May I suggest you use the tools Greywolf suggested, wire or new drill bit shank, and CHECK the adjustment of both TB Secondary Plates then decide whether you NEED to adjust them. Just my 2 cents.

 

Valves are in the check category. If it ain't checked, it can be broke in a hurry.

 

Where are the categories posted for the masses?

 

oops, I see I was wrong

I found out I was incorrect in my assumption that the secondary throttle plate, which the stepper motor controls, would dictate the position of the other stp.

I was able to follow the directions in this thread and adjust the secondaries using a dial caliper.

I am still confuse as to why this had to be done this way.
It seems like you should be able to place the rear secondary throttle plate in any position, and the front stp should be in the same position.

Rear throttle body with adjusting screw
Left side
Right side
Top

 

already messed

I have already messed with them.
Will have to just see how it goes I guess.
I had a slight surging problem in mid range, thought it couldn't hurt to sync the secondaries, before vacuum balancing the Throttle bodies.