To make a recommendation on how to do it is not hard. To get that big nut off of the primary sprocket, bend the locking edge of the locking washer away from the nut with either a drift, punch, or a #2 screwdriver. Put the transmission in neutral and put anything such as a screwdriver shank between the top primary sprocket teeth and the chain to jam it,... and using an impact wrench, remove the nut. Personally, torquing that nut to such huge values is not necessary IMHO. 85lft/lbs and bending the lock washer tab over is plenty strong enough.

 

change the rear instead

Considering putting on a smaller front sprocket?
You can will accomplish a similar ratios if you put a larger sprocket on the rear and your chain will last longer.

 

Considering putting on a smaller front sprocket?
You can will accomplish a similar ratios if you put a larger sprocket on the rear and your chain will last longer.

Just put my stock front (17) back on (had a 16) and went to a 42 on the rear (had a 41). The 16/41 was too low for me; I liked it on dirt/gravel which was only occasional, and, it was OK on twisty roads. It also made my speedo more than 10 mph off per my GPS.

 

I considered going to a 16T on the front but if I stay stock, (17T) and instead go larger to a 42T on the rear, will my chain length be ok and still be in adjustment parameters?

 

One tooth on the front sprocket is equal to three teeth on the rear sprocket. Changing one tooth on the rear is only about a 2.5% difference in ratios. If you feel the 17/41 ratio was too high, then going to 17-44 would be easier on the chain, swingarm and sprocket compared to 16-41. Putting a 44 on the rear would be about 7 1/2% lower than you have now. For every tooth smaller than 44 on the rear, your gear ratio will be ABOUT 2.5% higher. You may need to add a link or two to the chain to do this, depending on how much adjustment room you have back there. If you are getting new sprockets, it's a good idea to change chains, too. Chains and sprockets tend to wear into each other. If your chain isn't too old, try adding a couple links in the proper manner. Should work fine for you. Have fun. By the way, I'm running 17-43. Great for 2-up and heavily loaded. Otherwise, the stock gearing is fine. Others don't agree with this. Perhaps it's because mine runs real well at lower rpms.

 

I agree with changing the rear. Used to do the same on dirt bikes. I saw an instruction saying to bend the washer tab flat. I'm on my 4th DL1000 and have changed or removed C/S sprockets on all and none had a tabbed washer. You have to remove the speed sensor exciter using an allen wrench from the middle of the nut, then use an impact wrench, or breaker bar to pop the nut off. It has standard RH threads (counter clockwise to remove).

 

While on paper it might seem putting on a larger rear sprocket will increase chain life, in real life and on a Vee it won't matter enough to tell imo. Since the Vee has a 17t stock it is much larger than a typical dirt bike with a stock 15 or 14t.

Changing a front sprocket is much easier and won't require adding links to a chain. Which means you can go right back to the stock size if you wish.

If you buy a new chain set then you can order it to fit the combination you prefer. Try a change to the front sprocket to see what you think! Cheapest, easiest test you can do.

With the power of the Vee, a 16/43 was a bit too low for me. Couldn't use first gears torque and it tightened up the other gears too much for me. I went back to a 17/43 and liked that very well. Stock is 17/41 and going with a 17/43 is not quite as much change as going to a 16t front with the stock 41 rear. I have a customer that runs an 18t front with a 41 rear as he does all highway. Loves it. But that fits his riding.