Since you replaced the clutch cable and clutch actuator then I think you'll have to tear into the clutch to make sure it was put back together correctly. I don't know the details but as I understand there are two clutch pack plates that are special and have an orientation and order in the pack that is commonly incorrectly installed. I don't know if that could lead to your symptoms but I would do a search and see if others who have done this have similar issues.

 

i wouldnt be surprised if the previous owner didnt install the clutch plates correctly

 

Hold on a minute. Screwing the center screw on the free play adjuster “past the resistance” is going the wrong direction. You need MORE free play. Try going back to step 1.

Screw adjuster in till you feel resistance and stop. Now back out 1/2 turn. Hold the screws position while you snug the lock nut down. See if that helps.

 

I tried that several times but every time I did that, the bike would move forward with the clutch lever fully in. Clutch lever had no effect

 

The 1st gen Vstrom and SV have the same setup. Go to svrider.com and search for Andy Auger's clutch mantra. This is the best, by far, set of instructions I have ever read on the subject.

 

From memory there are two other important components, I think there's a washer under the basket and there's the thrust bearing. Check that both of those are where they should be (online parts diagrams) and working. May as well replace the thrust bearing, they aren't expensive.

 

Also check that the snail cam (near the front sprocket) is the right way round, you CAN install them 180 out, and that it's still in good condition. Nylon and ball bearings, the nylon will wear out and the ball bearings can escape.

 

That was my 1st thought, but the OP said he installed a new clutch actuator. I doubt he opened it up and turned it around before installation.

 

I'd follow Pete''s suggestion above. While you are looking around the actuator take a look at the arm that twists the actuator for free play. On my 2006 DL650 the spot weld that secures it broke and there was extra play in the arm so it couldn't fully release the clutch

..Tom

 

Here’s a pic I took before tightening everything down

 

I have to say that looks correct. When I screwed mine up I'd only replaced the actual cam, not the arms and found it could go in the wrong way.
DL clutches are pretty simple which is the good news, it'll probably just be an assembly issue rather than something worse.

 

At 73000 miles your outer clutch basket could have grooves worn in it.

What happens is the plates will sit in the low points then must climb up to the top of the hill to separate.

This takes away any smooth action the clutch would have.

If you open up the clutch have a look at the basket while your in there.

Ask yourself why he had to adjust the clutch in the first place, it may have never been about his adjustment.

 

Looks like I gotta open it up. Thanks for the advice everyone. Might not be something I tackle right away but if I find out the issue I’ll update the post

 

Ive been fighting with the clutch in my 2008 vstrom with 73.000 miles that i just recently bought. the previous owner told me that he "messed up the clutch adjustment and replaced the clutch plates. the engadement point on the clutch changes after a long ride to the point where its almost immediate as i let go but when the bike is cold, its pretty far out. its also impossible to shift into neutral while the bike is hot and stopped. i adjusted both the freeplay and the adjustment screw per the service manual and if i turned the adjustment screw in till i felt resistance then backed out a quarter turn the bike would still move forward with the clutch lever fully engaged.

This does not sound right to me and I am thinking that the reassembly must be faulty. There are a number of bits that must go on in the correct orientation and in the correct order.
Disassembly would seem to be necessary.

Here is a two part video to help. The SV650 is the same motor.
Also attached are the disassembly and reassembly pages of my service manual.

 

Thanks Brockie!

 

Impossible to achieve neutral at a stop is typical with a clutch rebuild. Put an SV drag bike clutch in (Barnett plates and springs) and it's 5000k's before you get close to that. Friction zone shouldn't be shifting though. (Payoff is worth it once you get past that )

That will happen with a frayed cable. If you suspect that you can disconnect top and bottom and just pull/push it back and forwards. Undamaged it'll slide freely, coming apart it'll be sticking in the lining and you will feel it.

 

I replaced the clutch cable and clutch actuator just to rule those things out but im having the same issues. any ideas?

 

Yeah, something is missing or out of place . Clutch basket COULD be heavily notched but I doubt it is.

Don't get me wrong, I've had fun 'n games as well. All I can suggest is get VERY familiar with the parts diagram and the you-tube videos then go in yourself, start from the bottom and work out. Also don't assume the clutch plates are correct or in the correct order.

 

Confirmed that the larger inner diameter clutch plate being last instead of first was my issue. Went on a ride today after the swap and had no issues

 

Congratulations. The PO must have got his clutch replacement wrong and passed the issue on to you.