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Brake fluid question

4.1K views 8 replies 7 participants last post by  MAZ4ME  
#1 ·
My 2016 Vstrom 1000 is at 10,600km. The brakes are in good condition and pads are holding on pretty good. I noticed that front brake fluid was dark and I mean Coca-Cola dark so I decide to bleed it. I did this many times in the past (on other bikes) so I removed the reservoir cover and yes the fluid was dark and murky ... took the most of it out and replaced it with a fresh one. I start releasing the fluid through a bleeder valve expecting a fair amount of that old dark stuff to come out but to my surprise the fluid was almost as clear as new??? This is definitely before newly added fluid could reach the valve. Same thing happened on the left side. Long story short ... I finished the job, fresh fluid is in and brakes are working just fine but I'm wondering if anyone came across a similar thing?
 
#3 ·
You'll find that with a lot of bikes the oil gets darker or dirtier looking from the rubber seals in the reservoir and in the lines is in much better condition. Just drain as you have and pump through the rest and all's fine.
My Tuono's clutch reservoir would go dark after a few weeks even with new fluid, so would just change it on age rather than colour.
 
#4 ·
When I owned 2014 DL1000, before changing brake fluid, it looked really dark in rear brake reservoir. After I changed it, it looked nice and clean... but just for 2-3 weeks and then it got dark just like before changing.
Now I own 2017 DL1000, purchased last September and again, brake fluid in rear reservoir looks like it's 20 years old, dark and dirty.
 
#5 ·
Bought a 2015 DL650XT with what looked like Black Butte Porter in the front brake reservoir. Bled out the front brake system to swap lines and the fluid from caliper to almost master cylinder proved vodka clear. Only at the reservoir did the color rapidly change. Seems to be a V-Strom thing.
 
#6 ·
Seems to be a V-Strom thing.
The clutch and brake system are single-line systems. There is no "return" which means that once the fluid is in the line, it essentially stays there. And fluid in the reservoir essentially stays there as well. There's hardly any mixing.

So I would not be surprised if the fluid in the brake slave cylinder itself turns black (due to heating), in the brake/clutch line stays clear (no contamination or heating), and in the reservoir turns black (due to water absorption through less-than-perfect seals).
 
#9 ·
Hello all!
I use an air-powered vacuum pump. 1st--suck all the old fluid from the reservoir. Fill with fresh fluid. Attach pump to caliper bleeder, open bleeder and suck fluid 'til level hits the bottom of the reservoir. Repeat twice, using the new fluid to flush all the old fluid. Apply lever/pedal pressure and crack open the hose banjo fitting at the reservoir to bleed air bubbles, tighten banjo bolt. Repeat at every junction to the caliper. Finally, bleed the caliper at the bleeder valve. I do not open the ABS lines.
My fluid stays clean and clear from one year to the next when I repeat the procedure. Pedal/lever never mushy.
The fluid I use in my personal bikes and the others I work on is Bel-Ray Super DOT4.I use silicone DOT5 on those bikes that recommend it.