My 2011 DL650 12764 miles tends to lose battery voltage, I even have it on a trickle charger, but if I forget that It loses volts, I do have a 12v cigar outlet for plugging in a camera and two small led spot lights with a on off switch. I also have a USB outlet for the GPS to plug into. All of those are wired straight to the battery. My question is, have anyone installed a 12v switchable fuse box to their bikes. I want one to be able to only turn o accessories when the bike is turned on. How do I install one. Thanks.
Auxiliary fuse box (block)
strompet42
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Bought the $20 cheap box from Amazon. Seems decent quality. Will get it installed and run a couple of accessories through it this week and see how it goes.
Electop 12V Fuse Block, Universal 20A Motorcycle Automotive Fuse Block Fuse and Relay Box Kit with 4 Circuits Low Profile Mini Blade Fuse Holder, Battery Fuse Box Terminal Block for 12 Volt Vehicles https://a.co/d/bILu1Qs
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Electop 12V Fuse Block, Universal 20A Motorcycle Automotive Fuse Block Fuse and Relay Box Kit with 4 Circuits Low Profile Mini Blade Fuse Holder, Battery Fuse Box Terminal Block for 12 Volt Vehicles https://a.co/d/bILu1Qs
Had my first test ride with the new accessory fuse panel setup yesterday.
Charging voltage at idle was as low as 12.5V at times, though usually closer to 13.1V. That isn't normal. it should be 13.6-13.8V at idle, quickly increasing to 14.2V by 2000 RPM.
I'm basing those observations on the dashboard USB voltmeter/charger reading, since I could see it the whole time.
I don't have an easy way to check voltage directly at the battery terminals while out riding, but multimeter in the garage says that the USB voltmeter is spot-on.
I think my heated grips might have a defect, drawing power even when "off."
It's also possible I have a stator on its way out, which was masked by running the last few months with some of my accessories disconnected (including the heated grips). Although, you would expect that merely having stuff connected, but not turned on, should make no difference in charging voltage.
Need to do some more testing, to figure out what's going on.
This may explain how my battery died a few months back, when I had the bike parked for a few weeks while doing suspension stuff. At that time, I had the heated grips connected, but of course not turned on.
Charging voltage at idle was as low as 12.5V at times, though usually closer to 13.1V. That isn't normal. it should be 13.6-13.8V at idle, quickly increasing to 14.2V by 2000 RPM.
I'm basing those observations on the dashboard USB voltmeter/charger reading, since I could see it the whole time.
I don't have an easy way to check voltage directly at the battery terminals while out riding, but multimeter in the garage says that the USB voltmeter is spot-on.
I think my heated grips might have a defect, drawing power even when "off."
It's also possible I have a stator on its way out, which was masked by running the last few months with some of my accessories disconnected (including the heated grips). Although, you would expect that merely having stuff connected, but not turned on, should make no difference in charging voltage.
Need to do some more testing, to figure out what's going on.
This may explain how my battery died a few months back, when I had the bike parked for a few weeks while doing suspension stuff. At that time, I had the heated grips connected, but of course not turned on.
yep. if the grip heater box is drawing power even when "off" that should reveal it.
I used the Eastern Beaver PC3. Plenty of outputs for accessory lights and USB charger. I don't know what if do with many more.
Sent from my Tab 11 using Tapatalk
Sent from my Tab 11 using Tapatalk
Did some testing and discovered some things.
All of these numbers were obtained with the bike idling on the centerstand, except the resistance values (which would be the same either way).
Charging voltage was 13.6-13.7V the whole time.*
First, Oxford isn't kidding, the Heaterz grip set does in fact draw no more than 4A at max power. 3.55A was what I measured this morning (grips @ 100% power).
Second: resistance of the two grips is **
left: 6.7 ohms
right: 8.5 ohms
interesting, I expected them to be closer to the same value. This would be a good excuse to break out my thermometer gun, & see if there's a meaningful difference in surface temps between the two sides.
Anywho. Power consumption: (P=IV) 3.55A x 13.6V = about 48W (closer to 49W if you go with the 13.7V value). Which doesn't leave a ton of power for other accessories. Good thing I rarely need to run the Oxfords at 100%.
I didn't try any other power levels.
With the engine off, key off, the grip set draws absolutely no current, down to the ability of my multimeter to measure (it claims to measure micro-amps).
Same story with key on, engine off. The logic in the Oxford "Smart" controller appears to turn itself completely off, until it detects normal engine-running voltage.
With engine running, grips "off," there is a 1 mA power draw. Presumably, this is to power the logic of the "smart" controller.
Conclusions: It seems that I get completely normal charging voltage when the engine is cold, with all accessories connected. So, i don't think any of them are drawing power they shouldn't.
When I saw the alarmingly low (12.5-12.6V) charging voltages at idle over the weekend, it was very hot out and I had been riding for a while, so the engine was toasty.
I suspect I have a stator on its way out. When it gets hot, it can't develop as much power as it should. Fortunately, I have a fix for that already in progress.
**The locking tab broke off one of the plugs when I was removing it for the resistance measurements. I think the plastic got brittle from repeated sun exposure. I'm annoyed enough that I might replace all of the connectors with proper weatherproof ones. Have several pre-wired, 16-ga. wire, weatherproof connectors left over from another project.
All of these numbers were obtained with the bike idling on the centerstand, except the resistance values (which would be the same either way).
Charging voltage was 13.6-13.7V the whole time.*
First, Oxford isn't kidding, the Heaterz grip set does in fact draw no more than 4A at max power. 3.55A was what I measured this morning (grips @ 100% power).
Second: resistance of the two grips is **
left: 6.7 ohms
right: 8.5 ohms
interesting, I expected them to be closer to the same value. This would be a good excuse to break out my thermometer gun, & see if there's a meaningful difference in surface temps between the two sides.
Anywho. Power consumption: (P=IV) 3.55A x 13.6V = about 48W (closer to 49W if you go with the 13.7V value). Which doesn't leave a ton of power for other accessories. Good thing I rarely need to run the Oxfords at 100%.
I didn't try any other power levels.
With the engine off, key off, the grip set draws absolutely no current, down to the ability of my multimeter to measure (it claims to measure micro-amps).
Same story with key on, engine off. The logic in the Oxford "Smart" controller appears to turn itself completely off, until it detects normal engine-running voltage.
With engine running, grips "off," there is a 1 mA power draw. Presumably, this is to power the logic of the "smart" controller.
Conclusions: It seems that I get completely normal charging voltage when the engine is cold, with all accessories connected. So, i don't think any of them are drawing power they shouldn't.
When I saw the alarmingly low (12.5-12.6V) charging voltages at idle over the weekend, it was very hot out and I had been riding for a while, so the engine was toasty.
I suspect I have a stator on its way out. When it gets hot, it can't develop as much power as it should. Fortunately, I have a fix for that already in progress.
**The locking tab broke off one of the plugs when I was removing it for the resistance measurements. I think the plastic got brittle from repeated sun exposure. I'm annoyed enough that I might replace all of the connectors with proper weatherproof ones. Have several pre-wired, 16-ga. wire, weatherproof connectors left over from another project.
That would make sense - I knew it had to be something like that.
Left grip having a lower resistance would mean it gets a bit hotter, making up for the heatsink effect of being directly on the bar. I think.
Left grip having a lower resistance would mean it gets a bit hotter, making up for the heatsink effect of being directly on the bar. I think.
Even if the cooling fan is running, it shouldn't cause a voltage drop.
I saw the same thing when the stator was failing on my old DL1000: droop in charging voltage at idle, once the engine was hot.
Went away once I had the stator rebuilt.
I saw the same thing when the stator was failing on my old DL1000: droop in charging voltage at idle, once the engine was hot.
Went away once I had the stator rebuilt.
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I would think that it should be easy enough for you to confirm / test whether the voltage drop is due to the fan motor running. Bridge / short out the fan switch or apply a direct ground / earth / battery negative to the switch side of the fan motor (B/R wire on linked drawing) and measure if there is any voltage drop.
Wiring diagram in reply #34 of chec fault please help
Wiring diagram in reply #34 of chec fault please help
I'm not real sure what exactly is going on.
Rode the Vstrom to work today. Right after I started it, idling before I shifted into first and got going, noticed charging voltage was hovering around 12.6-12.7V. Not great
Later in my commute, as in maybe 10 minutes later if that, I didn't have a lot of chances to stop and watch the idle voltage, but when I did it was normal 13.6-13.7V. Stayed that way until I had parked and shut the bike down.
It will be scorching hot this afternoon. Bike will be "cooled down" in that the engine will have been shut off for almost 8 hours, but warm from the surroundings, where the garage this morning was relatively cool. Will be interesting to see if that makes a diff.
Speaking of which: I have a wall thermometer/hygrometer/clock on the way for my garage. Should have got one years ago. Want to see what "high score" I get this summer.
Rode the Vstrom to work today. Right after I started it, idling before I shifted into first and got going, noticed charging voltage was hovering around 12.6-12.7V. Not great
Later in my commute, as in maybe 10 minutes later if that, I didn't have a lot of chances to stop and watch the idle voltage, but when I did it was normal 13.6-13.7V. Stayed that way until I had parked and shut the bike down.
It will be scorching hot this afternoon. Bike will be "cooled down" in that the engine will have been shut off for almost 8 hours, but warm from the surroundings, where the garage this morning was relatively cool. Will be interesting to see if that makes a diff.
Speaking of which: I have a wall thermometer/hygrometer/clock on the way for my garage. Should have got one years ago. Want to see what "high score" I get this summer.
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