[greywolf]

It sounds like the bike had 4000 miles of messy chain lube before you got the dry stuff.

 

[sturgeon]

I used to think the same thing. O or X-ring chains only seal between the side plates. The roller to side plate area (black to blue) is not sealed.

I think this drawing is a bit misleading; the yellow "lubricant" line in the upper half should be between the roller bearing and the pin, as it is shown in the bottom half. Here's another view

 

[greywolf]

That's for a solid bush type rather than a roller (actually needle) bearing type of chain and is different. Some sealed-ring designs place the seal between the pin and the roller or between the pin and the inner sideplate rather than between the inner and outer sideplates. I guess I should have mentioned that rather than given the impression all chains were the same. With the solid bush type, the sealed in lube only contacts the bush to pin interface. External lube is still needed for the bush/roller/inner plate interface.

 

[V-Strom Ry]

And to clarify, AFAIK, all the chains we normally use on bikes are the solid bushing type. The lubricant IS sealed in, but only lubricates the pin to bushing interface.

That then brings up the question of how much (if any) lubrication is needed on the outer surface of the roller, and between the roller and the bushing. The thing to remember is that when rolling off and on the chain the roller is not all that highly loaded. Where it is highly loaded, the roller, bushing and sprocket are basically all stationary relative to each other. I don't think I'd go so far as to say no lubrication is needed on those parts, however - think of how many times each of those rollers rolls off and on the sprocket for every mile you go down the road.

 

[Improperly Torqued]

You got us on that one. They don't salt the roads around here. It'll kill off the salmon population.

Yeah, they use sand instead, which kills off the motorcycle population by hanging around on corners after the snow is long gone.

Don't get me started ...

 

[ejy712]

DuPont Teflon Lube ok in my experience

I have 52,000 miles on my DL-1000. I'm on my second chain. I got 28,000 miles on the OEM chain. My current chain has seen nothing but DuPont Teflon Multilube. Sprockets and chain look almost new. There is some polishing on the plate sides from the plastic runner on top of the swing arm. I made a very small adjustment about 2,000 miles ago, the first since the first 1,000 miles. I clean and lube it every 400 to 600 miles. I use paper towels to wipe off any grunge. Then I spray it thoroughly with the lube while the chain is still warm.

It's pretty easy chain maintenance. There is no lube fling. Sure works for me...

 

[OpusX]

I have just over 20000 miles on my wee, have NEVER cleaned my chain, use the Dupont Teflon and my chain and sprockets still look good.

 

[graham downunder]

Well for my opion I use 90 weight diff oil and a simple to make drip feed . Yes some gets flung off ( not much ) but the chain has aways a nice oily finish on the rollers and side plates . The feed takes about 1/2 to 3 hours of ridng to use up what I put in the tube . I have a long tube on it but a short one would work well for most people but sometimes I ride 1000 plus klm in a day .

Oil dose help a chain and having it self apply as I travell is the trick .

 

[RoosterMan]

Gently wash the chain with soap and water and a grunge brush. Then hit the chain with WD-40, wipe it down with paper towels, and let it sit 24-hours or at least over night to displace and evaporate all the water. The next day lube with a liberal amount of Belray Super Clean lube and wipe it down with paper towels to remove the excess. Let it dry again over night and you're good to go with zero fling off. Furthermore, the Belray WILL NOT attract dirt like motor or chainsaw oil. I have used this process on dirt bikes (O ring and non O ring) for many, many years and have experienced no premature chain or sprocket failures.

 

[Henhouse1]

You are all wrong!

Bee's wax with a pumice of cayenne pepper and whale sperm, but only every other odd full moon. My last chain lasted 177,000 parsecs.

 

[BL]

let it sit 24-hours or at least over night. The next day lube with a liberal amount of Belray Super Clean lube and wipe it down with paper towels to remove the excess. Let it dry again over night

Thanks for the tips, but that maintenance schedule does not meet my riding schedule.

 

[garandman]

I have 52,000 miles on my DL-1000. I'm on my second chain. I got 28,000 miles on the OEM chain. My current chain has seen nothing but DuPont Teflon Multilube. Sprockets and chain look almost new. There is some polishing on the plate sides from the plastic runner on top of the swing arm. I made a very small adjustment about 2,000 miles ago, the first since the first 1,000 miles. I clean and lube it every 400 to 600 miles. I use paper towels to wipe off any grunge. Then I spray it thoroughly with the lube while the chain is still warm.

It's pretty easy chain maintenance. There is no lube fling. Sure works for me...

Good to know. That's exceptional life, especially on a 1K.

 

[Stromin'Nroman]

Thanks for the tips, but that maintenance schedule does not meet my riding schedule.

You mean you're not a "park to polish - polish to park" kinda owner/operator?

 

[BL]

You mean you're not a "park to polish - polish to park" kinda owner/operator?

Even my dog doesn't have time to lick himself.........

 

[RoosterMan]

Thanks for the tips, but that maintenance schedule does not meet my riding schedule.

Take the time to take care of the things that take care of you and you'll not be disappointed. I don't ride my Strom on a daily basis so the process described works for me. My '08 Wee now has 23,000 miles and is still running the original chain and sprockets with no visible need for a change anytime soon.

 

[BL]

Take the time to take care of the things that take care of you and you'll not be disappointed. I don't ride my Strom on a daily basis so the process described works for me. My '08 Wee now has 23,000 miles and is still running the original chain and sprockets with no visible need for a change anytime soon.

Ridden every day, (my only form of transportation), from mid-May to mid-October. Maintenance is completed in the evenings and occasional weekends that I stay home. I will pass the 60,000 mile mark, (2007 model year), on this weekend's trip.

 

[RoosterMan]

Super, and good luck to ya; hope you get at least 60K more out of her!! I also have a 1992 HD Ultra I have owned since new which now has 175K on the ODO and the motor has never been apart - not even the clutch plates. If I can get half that out of my Wee I'll be a happy camper.

 

[RWEST]

Bee's wax with a pumice of cayenne pepper and whale sperm, but only every other odd full moon. My last chain lasted 177,000 parsecs.

The problem is, there are less bees around now!!

 

[snakyjake]

It would be interesting and valuable to have the sprocket analyzed to see what it is and what may have been the cause. DuPont might be interested.

I've read from Finish Line the different types of chain lubes for differing environments (wet, mud, dry, etc):

Dry Lube
The disadvantage of Dry Lubes: they have low water resistance and will wear quickly in rainy conditions or on rides with multiple deep stream crossings.

Wet Lube
A Wet Lube will also perform better in muddy, off-road conditions because it will hold out more of the mud and crud due to its high water resistance.

With a Wet Lube, when you suspect that you will be riding in dry, dusty conditions, always wipe down the outside of the chain, removing any excess lube to minimize the accumulation of dirt into the drivetrain.

Wax Lube
Wax Lubes are great for those who don’t want to clean their chains. Some, like Finish Line’s WAX lubricant, are so dry that you can rub your leg or sleeve against them and they will not leave a stain. Used properly, you’ll rarely ever have to clean your chain again.

The key is frequent application. Each Wax Lube application actually cleans, flushes, and relubes. The lube goes on wet, but dries to a dry, hard wax. Dirt, dust and grime won’t stick to a wax lube. what contaminants do settle onto the chain are shed by the natural flaking action of the Wax Lube, or are easily flushed off during the next lube application.

Wax lubes have two disadvantages: first, Wax lubes require frequent application, every 50 to 150 miles depending upon conditions. second, they do not last long in rain, wet muddy conditions or through frequent deep stream crossings.

Ceramic Wax
Ceramic-WAX is an advanced wax-based lubricant featuring the same ceramic/fluoropolymer technology. Ceramic WAX goes on wet, but dries to a hard, dry wax lube that ensures total drivetrain cleanliness - there is no 'wetness' or stickiness on your chain or parts, so dirt or grime are not attracted or absorbed by the lubricant.

Ceramic Wet
Use Ceramic Wet for longer distances or wetter riding conditions, Use ceramic Wax for drier conditions where dirt attraction is a concern.

Jake

 

[Valentine]

Chain Lubricants

OK, I can't take it any more. I've read all these post concerning unique (read expensive) chain lubricants and believe that every one is over-thinking this issue. I own a 650 V-Strom but I also have owned a 1974 Kawasaki Z900.

According to my records (yes, as an anal engineer, I keep detailed records on every motor vehicle that I have ever owned), my first OEM chain/sprocket set lasted 43,000 miles. My second cheapo set from J.C. Whitney made it to 39,000 miles. I am now at 116,000 miles and my third set still is within specifications. Admittedly, do not plow through the mud and dirt (I have a dedicated trail bike for that). But I do ride through tons of rain and snow (10 inches of snow is my record).

What's my secret ?? Every 200 miles or so I squirt some 10W30 or whatever motor oil that is laying around on the chain - - spin the wheel a few times and then wipe the chain with a rag. Yes, a few droplets fling off, but, big deal, you'll live !!