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2nd Gear

8.5K views 30 replies 22 participants last post by  Strom Ref  
#1 ·
You know how when you're at a stop while in neutral and when you get into 1st gear it usually goes ba-clunk!

Is it just me or does my Vee go into 2nd just as harsh as 1st when shifting into 2nd? I've ridden a few other bikes recently and don't find going into 2nd as difficult as my Vee. It seems like I have to force it in and it makes a big clank noise like when I go into 1st from a stop

It just doesn't sound "healthy"... :confused:
 
#3 ·
Or.....shift from 1 to 2 very early. ...Once moving even 5 mph....shift.
Though I've not ridden a Vee, my experience on the Wee has been exactly the opposite -- the shift is worlds smoother at higher RPM. Much rougher if I shift early.

Shifting at a standstill, on the other hand, is always going to be awkward with this kind of transmission. Getting yourself into 1st before you stop is the right way. In addition to being clunky, sitting in neutral on the street isn't safe, anyway.
 
#5 ·
I don't know the intracacies of the hydraulic DL1000 clutch actuation, but is there some way to adjust it? If you are getting a lot of clunking when engaging 1st or 2nd this could be a sign that the clutch is dragging a bit more than it should.

..Tom
 
#7 ·
How many miles on your Vee?

I just replaced my cush rubbers (as well as my chain, sprockets, and rear wheel bearings) and it shifts like butter now. I didn't think it shifted poorly before, but there was a marked improvement. My old cush rubbers didn't even seem that bad, although they had hardened a bit. My bike has a bit over 50K.
 
#8 ·
Mines got 22800 now

I remember all the bikes I've ridden with a clunky first gear but 2nd is different.

I vaguely remember my 05 Wee I had, though I don't remember any characteristics clearly other than it was a very comfy bike, the Vee feels completely opposite of the Wee
 
#14 ·
I found two things improved the 1-2 shift: (1) removing the apparently functionless hinge thingie between the part you move with your boot and the part that's actually attached to the gears (how's that for a technical explanation? :confused:); and (2) pre-loading the shift lever before the shift. It's not 100%, but if I remember to pre-load when I have a passenger, I can give them the impression the bike and I know what we're doing.
 
#18 ·
There are aftermarket or other model levers that attach directly to #17. The OEM lever won't.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Purpose of clutch linkage

It has three purposes:

1. It moves the shift lever outboard about 2.5 inches, getting it away from the magneto cover and potential damage to it in a tipover, not to mention positioning it better for access with your foot.

2. It significantly isolates the shift actuating shaft (part 17) from the shift lever, which can also make a big difference in repair costs in a tip-over or wreck. Imagine the damage from having the shift lever smash into a rock during a tip-over -- bent or broken parts that are easy to get to; then imagine the considerably worse damage that could be done if that lever were directly attached to the rather thin shift actuating shaft, which caused bending or breaking of that shaft. A lot more expensive to repair.

3. It provides a finer adjustment to the final vertical position of the shift lever than can be provided by rotating the lever to the next spline(s) position on the shift actuating shaft that passes into the transmission case (part 17). By coincidence, just last night I took advantage of this finer adjustment in changing the lever position to better match some new riding boots. You loosen the two locking nuts (32 and 25) on either end of the thin connecting shaft (27), then rotate the shaft in the direction desired to move the shift lever up or down, then relock the nuts. BTW, the threads on the shaft end closest to the lever are reverse threads, so to loosen that locking nut you "tighten" it.
 
#22 ·
It kinds comfort me knowing this is a normal issue, or as we say another "Vee thing" I was already squeezing the clutch, with hopes the clunk would go away... but no changes... The 1st - 2nd change does not botter me as much as when I engage the 1st gear.
 
#23 ·
Avoiding the clunk from 1st to 2nd

As pointed out above, you can completely eliminate the clunk when shifting from first to second by pausing for a fraction of a second after lifting the lever out of first, and by then smoothly and deliberately lifting the lever into second. It slows the shift a bit, but with practice it becomes one smooth action and you can complete it in about 1/3 second. Small price to pay to avoid that disturbing clunk, I think.
 
#24 ·
I changed my cush drive rubbers on my Vee over the weekend. It made shifting from first to second much smoother. My old ones had about 30,000 miles on them. With the rear wheel off the ground I could rock the sprocket back and forth. When I would pull the wheel off the sprocket would just fall out. The new ones are much tighter.
If you have the clunk going into second gear this will help smooth things out.
 
#25 ·
Mine does fair shifting from 1 to 2. I also short shift it at around 4,000 rpm. The neutral clunk is worse on mine...especially when cold.

When cold, I try to roll mine a little as I shift into first. When hot and I turn it off, I just restart it in first with the clutch pulled in. Even though its a "vee" thing, I minimize it by doing what I do. Otherwise sometime in the future I will be replacing shift followers.

In 80,000 miles it has gotten neither better nor worse.
 
#27 ·
1) New rubbers in the rear hub. Check these every time the wheel is off, and shim them if needed.

2) New folding tip Touratech shift lever that mounts directly to the shifter shaft. That linkage is sloppy as hell.


Both of these made a huge difference for my Vee.
 
#29 ·
The main reason is you may need to run a red light, accelerate between cars or into a ditch if some cellphone abuser is about to run over you from behind. The split second of time savings by having the bike in first gear already may save your behind parts.

P.S. - assuming you leave some space in front of you and are watching your mirrors until something big is stopped behind you.
 
#31 ·
bwringer - What is meant by "shimming" the rubber pieces in the wheel. I understand how they would reduce the shifting clunkiness if replaced but this "shimming" sounds interesting and "cheaper" Thanks.