I don't know of any secrets although I think, like the factory oil filter seal, giving the seal a little wipe with oil is a good idea and make sure it doesn't go in too far.

..Tom

 

You could try a bit of wheel bearing grease, where the clutch push rod goes into the seal. Also make sure that the push rod seal sits flush with the casing and not below the casing surface.

 

Hello,

I just bought a 2008 DL1000 a month ago that had just under 8000 miles. It developed a small leak where the clutch push rod seal is.

My first two attempts ended in failure. Third time was a charm. First time I followed the advice of a sticky posted on here that recommended using a thin layer of food grade silicone grease ( like plumbing grease ) around the contacting surfaces of the seal. That was a bad idea. Second attempt failed because I tried to reuse the new seal again. Third attempt ... I made sure all the oil was drained completely so there was no oil pooling up behind the seal. I used alcohol, q-tips and a very clean rag to make sure everything was spotless. I decided to use Honda-bond 4. I put a thin layer around the outside edges of the seal, waited 24 hours. I than took a very small paint brush and applied a thin layer of the Honda-bond 4 around the outside edge of the seal and case, waited another 24 hours. I also decided to replaced the clutch rod. In the factory service manual Suzuki recommends using Suzuki Super grease, an inch on each end of the rod. ( A little lite weight type of grease is probably fine.) Success ! So far so good ! No sign of any leaks ! It's been about 50 miles with a couple of heat cycles, high revs and hard riding.


I literally called 10 Suzuki dealerships to get an opinion from various service departments. Each one had a different opinion about installing those push rod seals.
A couple dealers said do it dry, A couple dealers said use sealer, A couple dealers said use grease, One dealer said use contact cleaner to lube the seal, push it in and it will dissipate.

The Honda-bond 4 is very sticky and can be messy if not careful.


.

 

Wonder if Permatex RTV gasket maker would work here? I have a tube of their Ultra Black RTV product, which is especially rated for oil resistance - seems appropriate, given the location of this seal.

 

Good question. I can tell you the Honda-bond 4 is a lot stickier and dries to the touch faster and cures better.

I tested two old seals. I applied around the outside of each seal. The Permatex RTV Ultra Black peels off even after 24 hours. The Honda-bond 4 does not peel off after 4-5 hours let alone 24 hours..



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I believe that's intentional - the peeling off ability I mean. But likely unimportant on a seal you're going to replace anyway.

I don't know if I'm just super lucky or what, but my original pushrod seal is still A-OK at ~47000 miles.

 

I just bought my 2008 with 7996 miles a month ago. It started leaking on the side stand. I figure at 697 miles a year the V I bought wasn't ridden a lot. I attribute my leak to the bike sitting around mostly.

It's my thoughts that the Honda-bond 4 provides a better seal or bond. Time will tell. So far so good.


To answer the Op's question: " Do you guys use any type of sealant or something more exotic such as the blood from last white rhinoceroses? "

I think Honda-bond 4 is that sealant.

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Yikes, only 8000 miles on a 2008 is a crime.

My 2007 had a hair under 22k when I bought it in 2016, so at least someone was enjoying it now and then. Amongst all the owners so far, I'm the only nutjob who's insisted on riding year-round.

 

The original owner developed a bad back, so he couldn't ride anymore. I was happy for the low miles, not happy when it started leaking.
Leak fixed, added some farkles and it's running good so I'm happy now.

These bikes are made to be ridden, You're putting yours to good use, thats awesome. I may not ride in the rain if I can help it but I want to put my V to good use. It's a blast to ride.

I hope the OP has good success with his seal change out.

 

Thanks guys, I did buy a new seal. I'm not gonna take it all apart and not replace a $12 seal. When I originally installed it the seal was flush but when I pulled it all apart just now the seal is no longer flush. The impatient 10 year old in me wants to throw it back together NOW and ride it NOW but I will refrain and get some Honda Bond 4 sealant and drain the oil.

 

Just take your time. I also loosened all the bolts for the crank case and pulled it out a little, I found that it made it easier to reinstall the seal retainer without bumping or pushing the clutch rod seal in to far.



.

 

On my 2014 I found if I used a sealant it acted like a lubricant and allowed the seal to move, cleaning everything first keep things in place.


I then made a rubber washer out of a old beer cooler and glued it to the face of the seal, the washer was a tight fit on the push rod but bigger on the outer edges than the seal.


The good fit on the rod helps to keep crud out of the seal and the bigger outer edge stops the seal being able to move inwards.

 

I can guarantee Honda Bond 4 will not move. Permatex will move. I tested both on two separate seals on the outside mating surfaces. I was able to stratch the Permatex off after 24 hours. After 4 hours, there is no way to stratch the Honda Bond 4 off let alone 24 hours.

I'm surprised a 2014 would leak so soon.

 

I just found no sealant is required just like it came from the factory.

My leak (V2) was caused by the original owner, the seal had moved, I did not replace the seal I just put it back in place.

I then at a later date decided to help keep the seal clean and stop it moving again, I also built a cover for the push rod, a bit of preventative maintenance.


I don't believe the throw of the rod is enough to damage a seal but if crud is allowed build up it can distort the seal and apply pressure to the face this can move the seal.

On the V2 it is vital the rod be put in place before the cylinder, on the V2 the rod can stay fixed to the cylinder and it shouldn't.


I have a tube of Yamaha 3 bond and is my go to product but it was not required in my case.

 

I really didn't understand the desire to put sealant on the seal. It doesn't leak when installed properly until it gets all crudded up.

When you mention the cylinder above I take it you are talking about the Slave Cylinder?

..Tom

 

Yes the slave cylinder.

I found my problem when I fitted a 16t front sprocket and when I removed the slave cylinder the push rod was firmly attached.

That would have made getting things back together without the seal moving very hard so I removed the rod and inserted it first.