How about making a skid plate with no welding required :hurray:
![Image]()
Mock it up in cardboard. When your satisfied with the clearances and shape, draw it out on the metal. I used aluminum Tread Plate because I like the embossed design. It's about a 1/16" thick so it bends easy. I will reinforce it with square 3/4" Al. tube or angle, as required. (make sure to allow for this in the clearances)
![Image]()
Make the cuts first, then drill the 1/2" holes where the bends will meet at ACA, ADA, BCB & BDB, then the side bends A & B, then the remaining bends, C, D & E.
![Image]()
![Image]()
Side veiw of the mock up. The bends are held in place by staples.
![Image]()
Bending the sides at A & B to 45 deg. or so. (yes that is just two pieces of hard wood flooring) You could probably bend up to 60 deg. if you wanted the sides a little steeper. (do it on the mock up to get everything right)
![Image]()
Persuading the bends to be a little sharper.
Checking the angle at 45.
9x12" blocks of wood used to bend C,D & E to 22.5 deg. The bend at E will depend on which crash bar you are using, and you may have to shorten or lengthen it to meet the bar as required.
![Image]()
It's taking shape now. Note how the side cuts overlap.
![Image]()
Note the rivets (3/16" x 3/8" long aluminum were used and the excess was just ground off on the inside) with backer washers. Three per joint equally spaced, sort of. Note how the edge becomes rounded when held together by the rivets. This tends to change the angles at C & D, so you must clamp the work to a table at the back and secure the angle at the front by placing something solid and cut to 45 deg. under D,E. Then C clamp the joints and drill and rivet.
Measurements: Back to C, 11.5". C to D & D to E, 5" each. E to the front is 2 1/4". Each side starts out at 5". A to B is 9". Most retail plate stock is 24", so that is what was used, and you can see that a 1/4 " is lost in the bends. I don't intend to use this plate to protect the engine while I'm humping it over boulders or curbs or the like, it's just for flying gravel, road debris and the like. If you have any questions feel free to post or PM. Bob...
Checking the angle at 45.
9x12" blocks of wood used to bend C,D & E to 22.5 deg. The bend at E will depend on which crash bar you are using, and you may have to shorten or lengthen it to meet the bar as required.
Measurements: Back to C, 11.5". C to D & D to E, 5" each. E to the front is 2 1/4". Each side starts out at 5". A to B is 9". Most retail plate stock is 24", so that is what was used, and you can see that a 1/4 " is lost in the bends. I don't intend to use this plate to protect the engine while I'm humping it over boulders or curbs or the like, it's just for flying gravel, road debris and the like. If you have any questions feel free to post or PM. Bob...
By the time we got it sorted out the bike and I had worked up a sweat. I was sitting at the top of a 20' embankment at the side of a road profusely thanking the guy who helped me when he remarked that my engine was steaming. I looked down at a wet mud covered steaming engine . That is the only time I have ever felt some heat coming off the bike. It probably looked up at me and said the same thing!:green_lol:
