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Discussion Starter #1
How about making a skid plate with no welding required :hurray:
Mock it up in cardboard. When your satisfied with the clearances and shape, draw it out on the metal. I used aluminum Tread Plate because I like the embossed design. It's about a 1/16" thick so it bends easy. I will reinforce it with square 3/4" Al. tube or angle, as required. (make sure to allow for this in the clearances)
Make the cuts first, then drill the 1/2" holes where the bends will meet at ACA, ADA, BCB & BDB, then the side bends A & B, then the remaining bends, C, D & E.

Side veiw of the mock up. The bends are held in place by staples.
Bending the sides at A & B to 45 deg. or so. (yes that is just two pieces of hard wood flooring) You could probably bend up to 60 deg. if you wanted the sides a little steeper. (do it on the mock up to get everything right)
Persuading the bends to be a little sharper.
Checking the angle at 45.
9x12" blocks of wood used to bend C,D & E to 22.5 deg. The bend at E will depend on which crash bar you are using, and you may have to shorten or lengthen it to meet the bar as required.
It's taking shape now. Note how the side cuts overlap.
Note the rivets (3/16" x 3/8" long aluminum were used and the excess was just ground off on the inside) with backer washers. Three per joint equally spaced, sort of. Note how the edge becomes rounded when held together by the rivets. This tends to change the angles at C & D, so you must clamp the work to a table at the back and secure the angle at the front by placing something solid and cut to 45 deg. under D,E. Then C clamp the joints and drill and rivet.
Measurements: Back to C, 11.5". C to D & D to E, 5" each. E to the front is 2 1/4". Each side starts out at 5". A to B is 9". Most retail plate stock is 24", so that is what was used, and you can see that a 1/4 " is lost in the bends. I don't intend to use this plate to protect the engine while I'm humping it over boulders or curbs or the like, it's just for flying gravel, road debris and the like. If you have any questions feel free to post or PM. Bob...
 

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Nicely done!!!!....:yesnod:

Post more pics as you finish it up and get it installed.

Ken
 

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What Kinda Bike Is That?
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Ah Crap,.............no welding? Come on, that's at least half of the fun!!!

[Nicely thought out and done. :thumbup:]


B.
 
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Sure looks nice. I'd just be a little worried about metal fatigue and breakage caused by the bending (ask me how I know), but that also depends on the Al alloy used.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ah Crap,.............no welding? Come on, that's at least half of the fun!!!

[Nicely thought out and done. :thumbup:]


B.
It's only fun, if you own a welder!:green_lol: Yeh, I know, I just wanted to give the (weldingly challenged) some hope.:yesnod:
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Sure looks nice. I'd just be a little worried about metal fatigue and breakage caused by the bending (ask me how I know), but that also depends on the Al alloy used.
Got me thinking, so I bent a piece about 1" across back and forth greater than 90 deg. and it survived 7 times. The whole thing as a structure, with reinforcing, would of course, be much stronger, than a single 1" wide piece. Anyway it cost about $45.00 all told and would take about an hour to remake, so think of it as recyclable armour if you will. :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Nicely done!!!!....:yesnod:

Post more pics as you finish it up and get it installed.

Ken
Will post more pics if the SW motech crash bars ever come in. Ordered Feb. 1st. :furious: Tried to support local dealer. :headbang:
 

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I pick up my Wee in a few weeks and have been surfing around looking for add-ons. This certainly gives me some inspiration, especially after seeing some of the prices being asked!

And I've a friend with a shop to boot.

Nice job.

Chich
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I pick up my Wee in a few weeks and have been surfing around looking for add-ons. This certainly gives me some inspiration, especially after seeing some of the prices being asked!

And I've a friend with a shop to boot.

Nice job.

Chich
Thanks Chich; That's exactly why I designed it. Enjoy your new bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Viclava; See the original title (DIY) :green_lol: I'm so busy right now that I barely have time to make my own. I will consider your request again in the future though. Bob...
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Nicely done!!!!....:yesnod:

Post more pics as you finish it up and get it installed.

Ken
As promised, more pics:yesnod: The SW Motech crash bars finally arrived. They are the new design and are very nicely finished. I have time to put them on so here goes. I'm tied up in refinishing a basement right now so the No Weld DIY skid plate will have to wait a bit.

This is one bar with all of it's hardware. Note that one bolt is short and that there is four spacers of equal depth and only three washers. The short bolt with no washer goes in the most forward of the four fastening points. A spacer fits into each fastening point first before the bars go on. The two very short small bolts hold the crossbar joiner in place. (pic to follow)



This is the right side installed. It went on as fast as it takes to take the four bolts out and put four new bolts in. I torqued them up by hand, with blue Locktite. There is very little play in the mounting points, so some care should be exercised in the starting of the bolt threads. Note that the joiner piece has been slid all the way onto the cross bar at the lower front in anticipation of the other side being mounted to it. (don't forget or you will be taking one side off to get it on there:headbang:) Don't take all 8 bolts out at once as the engine may shift in it's mounts :yikes:



Front view showing how much clearance there is between tank and bar, and how much higher the new bar rises.



A view of the crossbar joiner so that anyone making a skid plate can see where the front of the plate needs to end up to join onto the bar. Oh incidentally, this is where the two small bolts with lock nuts go.



This is my handy dandy penny farkle maintenance stand. I use it for oil changes, chain inspection and other light repair/mods.



Parking brake on.



Right side installed, showing once again the added height of the new design and the added tube running more or less vertically between the loop. I believe this tube was added to address the possibility of harmonic vibration. (ee yo, Givi)



Now where is that skid plate???
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I now have the belly pan mounted. Please let me restate that this pan (not skid plate) is for protecting the motor from spray and road debris, not for humping rocks etc. and it will not provide a lift point for your favorite motorcycle jack.

You will notice right away that the mounting is a little unconventional to say the least. Don't flame me until you read the first paragraph.:fineprint:



Yes those are just Zip ties holding the pan mounts onto the SW mo bars. There are 3 ties under each mount to prevent the mounts from marking the bars.



The rear mounts are zipped too! Heavy on the KISS principal.



I have been using this set up for a while so I could see if there was anything obviously wrong with it before posting, and so far so good. I did not know whether the ties would stand the exhaust heat for one thing. They do. I did not drill any vent holes in the plate at first, but did so after a few runs. The vents follow the path of the exhaust pipe so far. Has anyone ever run a plate without vents? To do maintenance on the motor requiring removal of the plate, I would just cut the ties and replace them when finished. There is a 1 1/2" hole in the pan under the oil drain, and I can still take the oil filter off with the pan in place.
 

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Do you have a drawing with dimensions? I could get that into cad easily, then make one sweet pdf. It might be nice to have rolling around the forum, let me know.

Adam
 

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Here is my budget rear stand. It is VERY similar to my brothers pitbull. It only cost $14 for the ball bearing casters from Grainger, funny thing is they are nicer then the ones on the pitbull :green_lol:

 

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Discussion Starter #17
good work, looks nice. Not sure if I ride in rough enough areas to warrant a skid plate, but maybe someday.

Clem
This pan is actually not for rough areas, it is to protect the motor area from debris that you could run into while on-road. It comes from an incident when a C cell battery was flicked up off the road by the traffic ahead of me and hit a banjo fitting on my bike. I figure it would work for light off-road use too. Sticks and stones etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Do you have a drawing with dimensions? I could get that into cad easily, then make one sweet pdf. It might be nice to have rolling around the forum, let me know.

Adam
Sorry to not get back to you sooner Adam. I will see what I can round up.:yesnod:
 

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The rear mounts are zipped too! Heavy on the KISS principal.

Again, just a noob question...but wouldn't that zip-tie be subject to rather high heat from the exhaust? I don't know what temp those things are good up to, but if it doesn't melt off I could see if becoming quite brittle and eventually failing.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Low And Silent; I am keeping a close eye on all the ties. I give them a twist with a pair of needle nose pliers about every 100k or so. So far 1000km no failures. Even tho there was no vents in the pan originally, 500km, there was no problem that I could see with heat. There must be a lot of air flow around the front and top of it that takes away the heat. It's 10-15* here now so I don't think it's much of a test. I don't think I would want to idle along at 30*c in a traffic jam. I will probably vent it some more. Still testing.:fineprint:
 
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