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post #1 of 23 Old 04-09-2011, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
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Torque Wrench Suggestions?

Anyone have a torque wrench to recommend for the range needed for bolt checking and normal maintenance on my wee?

I have to do the cushion rod/dog bone swap anyway, and I figure I'll need the torque wrench for everything else anyhow... it doesn't have to be the cheapest one on the lot, but something that's solid, works well, and is compact enough to fit in the squidgey little spaces required would be the ticket.

Thanks all in advance...
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post #2 of 23 Old 04-09-2011, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
it doesn't have to be the cheapest one
And you don't need Snap-On quality and price. We aren't assembling gas turbines here.

Buy a mid or lower priced torque wrench from a store that has a money-back, no-questions-asked, satisfaction-guaranteed warranty policy. 3/8" drive, maybe in the 5 to 80 lbs-ft range or similar. Click type, not beam type. You'll get recommendations to buy from Sears...they used to be very good quality, now they're OK quality, prices kind'a high, know-nothing sales staff, don't know their current warranty policy. Or buy a name brand on eBay if the price is right and get it tested and recalibrated locally.

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post #3 of 23 Old 04-09-2011, 11:59 AM
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I bought a Craftsman that goes up to 80ft-lbs, for maybe $90. Works great so far. *shrug* I know quality ain't what it used to be, and they no longer have a lifetime warranty on SOME items, but I think some still do. I just wish it went a little higher than 80. Ah well.
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post #4 of 23 Old 04-09-2011, 12:35 PM
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I believe accuracy may suffer at the extreme ends of a wide range torque wrench. I use three, a small click type up to 200 lb-in, a medium clicker up to 75lb-ft and a beam type up to 150lb-ft. The big sucker is needed for things like tire lugs and countershaft sprocket nuts. The little one handles stuff like valve clearance inspections where accuracy in a light range is very important and parts are expensive. The medium gets the most use for general work where safety is an issue like caliper bolts.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
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post #5 of 23 Old 04-09-2011, 01:02 PM
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You will likely want to get 2 wrenches. I purchased this KD 0-50 ft/lbs one from Amazon and I am very happy with it -- Amazon.com: KD Tools 2956 Beam Torque Wrench (0-600-Inch/Pounds 3/8-Inch drive): Home Improvement

Its also got a lifetime warranty
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post #6 of 23 Old 04-09-2011, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greywolf View Post
I believe accuracy may suffer at the extreme ends of a wide range torque wrench. I use three, a small click type up to 200 lb-in, a medium clicker up to 75lb-ft and a beam type up to 150lb-ft. The big sucker is needed for things like tire lugs and countershaft sprocket nuts. The little one handles stuff like valve clearance inspections where accuracy in a light range is very important and parts are expensive. The medium gets the most use for general work where safety is an issue like caliper bolts.
+1..., you'd be better off with different torque wrenches for different torques (if that makes sense). The bigger the range, the less adept to being accurate in the extremes. Don't ask me how I know this...:beatnik:

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post #7 of 23 Old 04-09-2011, 08:15 PM
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I have a Craftsman for lower torque range and a Kobalt for higher torque range. The Kobalt is much quicker to adjust than the Craftsman. FWIW, I have also heard that accuracy drops as you descend through the torque range.

07 DL1000, all farkled up
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post #8 of 23 Old 04-09-2011, 09:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PTRider View Post
...Click type, not beam type...
Strongly disagree with this. A beam type's accuracy is dependent only on the fundamental properties of the steel they're made out of, they are much more consistent than the click type. The click type also encourages unthinking use, where the user just pulls without paying any attention to the feel of the bolt/nut, just waits for the click to tell him he's done.

Preloading (or pre-stressing if you prefer) fasteners to the correct level is a complicated business, and a torque wrench is a very crude tool for the job.
If you notice in most "OMG, I stripped the threads on XXX" threads" on bike forums, a torque wrench was involved.
They do have their place, but most of the time that place is in the bottom of the tool box.

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post #9 of 23 Old 04-09-2011, 09:33 PM
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I'd probably do okay without a torque wrench. I tend to be a little light though and wonder if I did it properly. The nice thing about a clicker is the scale does not have to be seen. It takes a mirror to read a beam type on a drain plug and the ability to judge a mirror image. The problems come from people who totally rely on a torque wrench and never develop a feel. Then they use too big a clicker and don't set it back to zero after the last use. A beam never goes out of adjustment though. I use my beam wrench to check my clicker.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
See https://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

Please vote in the poll on what Strom(s) you have at https://www.stromtrooper.com/informat...-you-have.html
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post #10 of 23 Old 04-09-2011, 09:45 PM
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I just picked up this clicker. Been happy with it so far. I honestly was NOT trying to go cheap on a torque wrench either but the reviews were decent.

Amazon.com: Pro-Quality 1/4" 20-200 Inch-Pound Automatic Torque Wrench with Case: Home Improvement
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