Clutch Adjustment Help - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 30 Old 04-08-2011, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
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Clutch Adjustment Help

Did the clutch adjustment by removing sprocket cover.

The manual states to loosen both lock nuts top and bottom and then turn the cable adjuster. The threaded piece the lock nuts are on just moves up and down. I had to tighten the top nut and then make the adjustment?

I don't see how else it works? Please explain in simple language.

I now have the correct free play at the handle, with some room for adjustment at the top handle adjuster, but the bottom is now at the end of the threaded tube, pipe whatever you call it, see pic.

Does that mean I will have to replace the clutch cable soon????

2006 WEe 15,000+ miles
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post #2 of 30 Old 04-08-2011, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SquidWilly View Post
Did the clutch adjustment by removing sprocket cover.

The manual states to loosen both lock nuts top and bottom and then turn the cable adjuster. The threaded piece the lock nuts are on just moves up and down. I had to tighten the top nut and then make the adjustment?

I don't see how else it works? Please explain in simple language.

I now have the correct free play at the handle, with some room for adjustment at the top handle adjuster, but the bottom is now at the end of the threaded tube, pipe whatever you call it, see pic.

Does that mean I will have to replace the clutch cable soon????

2006 WEe 15,000+ miles
Greywolf is sure to kick in with pictures, but the bolts you are adjusting just take care of slack in the clutch cable.

If you look in the sprocket area you will see where the cable ends on an arm. If you look where the arm is attached you will see a shaft that has a nut and a screw adjuster on the end of it. You lossen the locknut, then turn the screw until you can feel contact and then back it out a bit (I forget the amount, half a turn I think?) Then tighten up the locknut.

After that you adjust the bolts opn the cable to make sure you have the appropriate amount of slack in the cable.

..Tom

2006 DL650: 202,000 km 125,500 miles, Sold
2012 DL650 139,500+ km, 86,700+ miles. Sold
2015 DL1000 New July 2015 195,000+ km, 121,000 miles.

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post #3 of 30 Old 04-08-2011, 02:13 PM
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See https://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...ut-clutch.html especially post #2.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
See https://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

Please vote in the poll on what Strom(s) you have at https://www.stromtrooper.com/informat...-you-have.html
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post #4 of 30 Old 04-08-2011, 03:06 PM
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I had a similar situation with the lower end of the threaded barrel on the clutch cable running out of threads for the bottom nut, as your picture shows.

I was able to regain some threads by making the adjustment to lever play at the end of the cable thatís adjacent to the clutch hand lever. (You do this after doing the actuator rod adjustment described in Greywolfís linked post.)

Iím not sure why, but the manual tells you to turn the adjuster barrel at the clutch hand lever all the way in before you begin the other adjustments. Thatís the root of the problem. Having that top adjuster all the way in means that youíre left with only the adjuster at the engine end of the cable to take up all the slack. Thatís why youíre running out of adjustment room.

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post #5 of 30 Old 04-08-2011, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Sprocket View Post
...Iím not sure why, but the manual tells you to turn the adjuster barrel at the clutch hand lever all the way in before you begin the other adjustments. Thatís the root of the problem. Having that top adjuster all the way in means that youíre left with only the adjuster at the engine end of the cable to take up all the slack. Thatís why youíre running out of adjustment room.
I can understand why: the bottom adjuster is harder to get at. If you do it first then you can make easily final adjustments or little adjustments for clutch stretch at the handlebar.

..Tom

2006 DL650: 202,000 km 125,500 miles, Sold
2012 DL650 139,500+ km, 86,700+ miles. Sold
2015 DL1000 New July 2015 195,000+ km, 121,000 miles.

This can help preventing from cars pulling out in front of you (SMIDSY)
SMIDSY detailed report.


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post #6 of 30 Old 04-08-2011, 11:54 PM
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Not a bad idea to take the sprocket cover off maybe every oil change, clean out any crud, clean & grease the Wee's clutch "screw assembly" helix gizmo that converts the cable pull to pushing the push rod, clean & grease the pushrod, and take a close look at the condition of the cable and everything else.

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post #7 of 30 Old 04-09-2011, 07:36 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation

Thanks for responding

As Sprocket stated "Thatís the root of the problem. Having that top adjuster all the way in means that youíre left with only the adjuster at the engine end of the cable to take up all the slack. Thatís why youíre running out of adjustment room"

Per the manual, with making the adjustment and backing out a 1/4 turn, it's the next step that was the problem. Following directions, you end up at the end of the lower threaded adjuster? Doesn't say anything bout that

That's what scares me as I prepare for the valve check and adjustment. If this is confusing me

Anyway, I will take another look for the arm adjustment mentioned
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post #8 of 30 Old 04-09-2011, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SquidWilly View Post
...
Per the manual, with making the adjustment and backing out a 1/4 turn, it's the next step that was the problem. Following directions, you end up at the end of the lower threaded adjuster? Doesn't say anything bout that
...
Anyway, I will take another look for the arm adjustment mentioned
The quarter turn is for the adjuster on the clutch pushrod. The adjustment on either end of the cable has nothing to do with the quarter turn on the adjuster screw - it only adjusts the amount of slack in the cable. if you have adjusted the clutch adjuster properly and you run out of adjustment on the cable then the cable is stretched or the clutch actuator mechanism is messed up. (Mine wore out gradually at around 100,000 km 62,000 miles. It was cheap and easy to replace, about $50 in Canada.)

..Tom

2006 DL650: 202,000 km 125,500 miles, Sold
2012 DL650 139,500+ km, 86,700+ miles. Sold
2015 DL1000 New July 2015 195,000+ km, 121,000 miles.

This can help preventing from cars pulling out in front of you (SMIDSY)
SMIDSY detailed report.


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post #9 of 30 Old 05-14-2012, 05:08 PM
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Do I understand correctly that the adjustment that can be made is only to change the amount of slack in the clutch lever before you actually begin to pull the clutch in?

I have a situation in which, after a clutch lever replacement, the friction zone of my clutch is not where I feel it should be. I have to let the lever too far out before I get friction. (The opposite of a stretched cable, I guess?)

Is this something that can be adjusted at all? Definitely not at the top of the cable at the lever, I know; but, down below, perhaps?

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post #10 of 30 Old 05-14-2012, 05:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azure View Post
I have a situation in which, after a clutch lever replacement, the friction zone of my clutch is not where I feel it should be.
There are two adjustment possibilities. One is the clutch pushrod clearance. Replacing the lever won't affect that. The other is the clutch cable free play. The latter is the one you need to do and it is at the end of the cable by the lever.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
See https://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

Please vote in the poll on what Strom(s) you have at https://www.stromtrooper.com/informat...-you-have.html
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