Ignition switch replacement - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 13 Old 01-06-2011, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
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Question Ignition switch replacement

It looks like getting the old switch out only requires removing the top of the triple clamp, is that correct? Can I do that by just loosening the bolts on each fork and removing the center bolt or do I need to remove the handle bars from the clamp to get it out? I have torx drivers so that shouldn't be a problem. Also, what will I need to remove to get to the electrical connector which I think is behind the radiator? Thank you.

I'm replacing the switch because no amount of wd40, oil and cleaners have kept it from jamming up and becoming almost unusable.
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post #2 of 13 Old 01-06-2011, 05:47 PM
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That's basically correct. You do need a Torx security bit, the one with a hole in the middle. 3/8" Drive Tamper-Resistant Star Bit Set is one example.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
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post #3 of 13 Old 01-06-2011, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benscott View Post
I'm replacing the switch because no amount of wd40, oil and cleaners have kept it from jamming up and becoming almost unusable.
Curious -- what year is your bike?

-Tom (DL650AL2) (KA1TOX) (E-I-E-I-O)

This message and images are licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License. http://creativecommons.org
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post #4 of 13 Old 01-07-2011, 12:42 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmcgee View Post
Curious -- what year is your bike?
It's a 2005 dl650 with only 20,000 miles.
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post #5 of 13 Old 01-07-2011, 12:44 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by greywolf View Post
That's basically correct. You do need a Torx security bit, the one with a hole in the middle. 3/8" Drive Tamper-Resistant Star Bit Set is one example.
I'll need to get one of those. Thank you.
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post #6 of 13 Old 01-11-2011, 09:51 PM
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My key is getting hard to turn. Anything to do to ease it up. 05 22000 miles

Go Vols
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post #7 of 13 Old 01-11-2011, 10:03 PM
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The standing argument is between WD40 and colloidal graphite. It goes on for pages. A locksmith where I used to work said WD40 flushes stuff out and doesn't leave enough residue to attract dirt while graphite leaves deposits. Others say graphite works better because it is totally dry after the carrier evaporates and won't attract dust.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
See https://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

Please vote in the poll on what Strom(s) you have at https://www.stromtrooper.com/informat...-you-have.html
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post #8 of 13 Old 01-23-2016, 06:03 PM
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Just thought I'd add my experience here. My '08 Wee has about 50k miles. The ignition switch has been somewhat balky for about the last 20k, but occasional lube has always fixed it up. Recently, it got worse, to the point that I was afraid I wasn't going to get the key to turn at all. Getting stranded would suck, so I bought a replacement kit (including the tank and seat locks).

No one answered the OP's question about access to the connector. It looks to me like loosening the radiator and tipping it forward will be enough, but I can't do it till I get a dry day. It would be nice to hear from someone who has done it; might save some time.
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post #9 of 13 Old 01-23-2016, 10:26 PM
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I had an old dirt bike many years ago with an ignition switch which jammed constantly.
In this instance security was not a major consideration so I dismantled the lock and removed the pins from the lock cylinder.
The lock turned so much easier and the bike could be started with the key (or a screwdriver in the key slot) but that was not an issue.

Moving forward, I understand the DL has an electronic immobiliser, well my 2015 does anyway.
The bike cannot be started without the correct key so security is somewhat key dependent.
What's to stop using my previous technique of removing the lock pins (to overcome the jamming of the lock cylinder) as the bike still will not start without the correct key.

I guess if I am the only person who knows about the lock modification then it is reasonably secure.

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2015 Suzuki DL650AL5
x 2014 Honda CBR650F
x 2009 Suzuki Bandit 1250
x 2006 Suzuki Bandit 1200
x 2004 Suzuki VZ800 Marauder

Last edited by BanditDave; 01-23-2016 at 10:30 PM.
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post #10 of 13 Old 01-23-2016, 10:30 PM
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Ignition switch replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by BanditDave View Post
I had an old dirt bike many years ago with an ignition switch which jammed constantly.

In this instance security was not a major consideration so I dismantled the lock and removed the pins from the lock cylinder.

The lock turned so much easier and the bike could be started with the key (or a screwdriver in the key slot) but that was not an issue.



Moving forward, I understand the DL has an electronic immobiliser, well my 2015 does anyway.

The bike cannot be started without the correct key so security is somewhat key dependent.

What's to stop using my previous technique of removing the lock pins (to overcome the jamming of the lock cylinder) as the bike still will not start without the correct key.



I guess if I am the only person who knows about the lock modification then it is reasonably safe.

The US 2015's don't have the immobilizer. I don't know why but I know they don't.

Edit* I'm just seeing your in AUS so you're correct.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

-John
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