:arrow: I used the jack with virtually no force at first, as a somewhat neutral helper. I then removed the jack, No help.
Interesting to note, after getting givi bars out of my way and seeing if I could bolt things back to stock,,,The two upper allen screws started perfect. (on the throttle side of the bike, we are talking about here) then the third screw on the bottom set was a little tougher, the fourth and final just plain would not line up. I previously told you about the thread marks on the triangulated frame piece that the allen screw cut in on its way out.
I tried a variety of wood blocks pushing at different angles in conjunction with the jack but to no avail.
I finally, but reluctantly loosened all the main heavy nuts or bolts hanging the engine. This gave me the ability to "rock" the triangulated frame to engine hanger a wee bit. Then again a jack in a variety of positions. I used a long skinny metal punch wrapped with teflon tape to protect the threads to insert into the "out of align" hole to move the triangulated piece. Sorry Charlie, no help. So,,,,,I got things as close as possible, started the other three allen screws and took a 8mmx1.25 tap to clean out the now insulted factory threads. Back came the Givi bars---new supplied screws----plenty of lock tite, torqued the mains and everything is now installed for my 8000 mile artic circle ride this Summer. By the way, loading the allen screws with lock tite I have read that you should use slightly less torque (by a factor of .8, for example if it calls for 20 lbs. go with 16-18 lbs, (20 times .8). Maybe this is baloney, but set your torque wrench to 25 lbs as called for and using a hex head socket on one of those small allen screws and you may be taking a trip to the strip club. To those of you who strip one of these allen screws threads or break the head off,,,I don't see a huge panic. Try drilling exactly the center out, see if you can save the stock tapping (8x1.25) as best as possible, then buy a longer hardened allen screw that will traverse completely through the main frame and back it up with a nylon aircraft locker nut on the back side.----Or, just go up to the next size.
When I get back from my artic ride, I will give a report on how these Givi crash bars hold up. (and my handy work). I took the bike for a ride and at this time feel no weird added vibrations, and must say looking down for a second, as I ride, that I like the idea of the knee protection I see down below! (not to mention saving the fairing) :arrow: :arrow: