Torque Wrench(es) for my DL1000 K2? - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 25 Old 08-25-2009, 04:20 AM Thread Starter
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Question Torque Wrench(es) for my DL1000 K2?

The Haynes Manual (4083) lists the torque settings for my DL1000 K2 from 2.5Nm to 150Nm, with the majority being in the 10Nm to 55Nm range. After reviewing a number of toolsites (Draper, Sealy, Norbar TruTorque - the best, methinks), I have yet to see one single torque wrench to cover the whole range, ie.. 2.5NM to 150Nm.

Any thoughts?

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post #2 of 25 Old 08-25-2009, 06:32 AM
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You're going to need two. No way to avoid it that I know of.
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post #3 of 25 Old 08-25-2009, 07:12 AM
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Sears is supposed to run a tool sale this fall and the Microtech torque wrenches will be on sale for $59.99. You can pick up 2 wrenches for $120. That will cover you for about 99% of your torquing needs.

At least that is what the local Sears Hardware store told me.

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post #4 of 25 Old 08-26-2009, 04:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. M View Post
You're going to need two. No way to avoid it that I know of.
What he said. So no need to start another thread. Use the time saved to fill out your profile.

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post #5 of 25 Old 08-26-2009, 04:18 AM
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-What are those values in Foot and Inch pounds? If you want answers from the masses then you should speak their language.
-I agree with needing two wrenches.
-Craftsman sells a 3/8" drive Inch pound torque wrench.
Try to keep your torque values in in the middle half (quarter / half / quarter) of the torque wrench.
-Always use 6-point sockets.
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post #6 of 25 Old 08-26-2009, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
-What are those values in Foot and Inch pounds? If you want answers from the masses then you should speak their language.
Sorry to tell you, NM is used by the masses (majority), foot pounds are used by the minority. It's a metric bike after all.

This might help:
http://www.unitconversion.org/energy...onversion.html

Scarlett Harlot is correct, I would look for some torque wrench sales at Sears in the next 2-3 weeks.

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Last edited by truax; 08-26-2009 at 05:58 PM.
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post #7 of 25 Old 08-26-2009, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by truax View Post
Sorry to tell you, NM is used by the masses (majority), foot pounds are used by the minority. It's a metric bike after all.

This mighty help:
http://www.unitconversion.org/energy...onversion.html

Scarlett Harlot is correct, I would look for some torque wrench sales at Sears in the next 2-3 weeks.
Metric bike in the United States of America!
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post #8 of 25 Old 08-27-2009, 12:33 AM Thread Starter
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Red face Torquing of Starting Another Thread...

It seems my attmept to draw the masses attention to this thread, by starting a link in the DL1000 Specific forum, have been deliberately thwarted. No worries. :angel_31: I only did that because traffic over there is greater than over here, and things do get seen/responded to much more quickly. I hope I have not offended the sensitivites of some. :rolleyes:

Moving on...I am not going to escape the opportunity of buying a few (2 or 3) torque wrenches. I can understand buying one from say 1Nm - 50Nm, and another from say 50Nm - 150Nm, but it seems that nearly all of the torque wrenches I have reviewed--and there have been lots--all seem to have no SIN (standard industry norm) settings/ranges. How odd is that?

The next big question: do I really want to spend all that money on buying specialised tools that will probably spend more time in their boxes than out. Probably....erm...not sure...

Anyway, thanks for your input, guys. :thumbsup:

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post #9 of 25 Old 08-27-2009, 02:31 AM
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One thing to remember is that a torque wrench is only as good as its last calibration.

What plan do you have to keep yours in calibration?

I am very lucky in that I have access to calibrated torque wrenches, but for the typical owner...how can you put blind faith in something that can go out of adjustment if dropped, bumped, (ab)used to loosen fittings, etc.?

Generally, the 'click type' require the most maintenance (calibration), dial indicating the second, and beam the last. Just because it's a Sears clicker doesn't mean it'll be accurate today or ten years from now, unless it is calibrated.

Not to pee on anyone's leg or anything...just a fact.

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post #10 of 25 Old 08-27-2009, 09:48 AM Thread Starter
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Thumbs up Good Point

donstrom6: good point. The quality ones I was reviewing all come with a calibration certificate, which, I presume, would suggest they would be good for a number of years of careful/proper usage. And don't forget, it is a tool that is meant to be 'worked', so by keeping it mostly boxed, as I said I would, it/they would only come out if I needed to do certain upgrades or maintenance jobs on the bike which would require their usage.

As in most things, quality costs...but if I was relying on an obviously cheap (import) torque wrench to be accurate, then it is I that would need a good talking to.

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