Rear axle nut question after chain adjust - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 11 Old 07-29-2009, 12:08 AM Thread Starter
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Rear axle nut question after chain adjust

When re-tightening the rear axle nut after adjusting the chain yesterday I was having trouble getting the nut to snug down. As the nut started to get tight, (but by no means anywhere near the final torque setting), the whole axel started turning with the nut.
Isn’t the left side of the axle “fixed” somehow so this won’t happen? It seemed that if the nut was stuck a bit, you could be in a position of not being able to get the nut all the way on or off. Fortunately I found that if I applied a sharp force on the wrench I could back it off and start tightening again, but the axle would still spin with the nut as it got tight. Eventually I decided to just keep spinning it and eventually it seemed to “catch” and tighten down properly.
Seems a bit fishy and couldn’t help but wonder when running some errands today if the rear wheel was going to fall off due to some quirk I didn’t understand.
If it makes a difference, this was the first time I've adjusted the chain. Didn't realize how little you needed to turn those adjusting screws, so ended up backing them way, way off at one point, turning a 10 minute job into an hour or more of fiddling. Maybe I accidentally unseated something in the process?

Can anyone enlighten me on this one?

Thanks

Rob in T.O.
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post #2 of 11 Old 07-29-2009, 12:41 AM
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Hey WeeRob...that nut is threading on to a very long bolt that is the axle. You need to hold the 'head' of the bolt (left side) while loosening or tightening the nut (right side).

Get the right sized sockets; don't use vise grips or plumbing wrenches. This is an important fastener, so take care of it!!

And good on you for doing your own maintenance!

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post #3 of 11 Old 07-29-2009, 12:58 AM
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Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
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post #4 of 11 Old 07-29-2009, 06:48 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks to both of you for the replies..
GW: I was of course, using the thread you linked to, and your fine explanation, as my guide over and above the Owner's Manual. It is only after reviewing all of these threads that I work up the courage to start on some of these things!
As to the axle, I may have just been unobservant, but when it was spinning with the nut, it didn't seem to be turning the corresponding nut on the left side of the bike. That made me nervous that maybe I was slowly unscrewing the nut on the left side, while trying to tighten the right. I have procured a proper sized socket to fit the torque wrench, but that was not until after initially doing the work with the open spanner in the bike's tool kit. With the socket, you can't see the axle turning with the nut, but when using the bike's wrench I could.
Anyway, it sounds like the smart thing to do is to take it off again and reinstall with a bit of anti-seize on that nut to be safe.

Thanks again for putting my mind at ease a bit.
Rain coming so maybe time to try that air filter!

Rob in T.O.
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post #5 of 11 Old 07-29-2009, 06:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeeRob View Post
Thanks to both of you for the replies..
GW: I was of course, using the thread you linked to, and your fine explanation, as my guide over and above the Owner's Manual. It is only after reviewing all of these threads that I work up the courage to start on some of these things!
As to the axle, I may have just been unobservant, but when it was spinning with the nut, it didn't seem to be turning the corresponding nut on the left side of the bike. That made me nervous that maybe I was slowly unscrewing the nut on the left side, while trying to tighten the right. I have procured a proper sized socket to fit the torque wrench, but that was not until after initially doing the work with the open spanner in the bike's tool kit. With the socket, you can't see the axle turning with the nut, but when using the bike's wrench I could.
Anyway, it sounds like the smart thing to do is to take it off again and reinstall with a bit of anti-seize on that nut to be safe.

Thanks again for putting my mind at ease a bit.
Rain coming so maybe time to try that air filter!
You mean Loctite? Just make sure you use Blue... Just think of it as a reguler nut and bolt. Sometimes you need to hold the bolt to keep it from spinning while tightening the nut... I think you have discovered this already, anyway.

P.S. Is this another crappy summer in Ontario or what. I am so disgusted with the weather over the last two summers...

Richard

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post #6 of 11 Old 07-29-2009, 07:08 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanadianFZ6 View Post
You mean Loctite? Just make sure you use Blue... Just think of it as a reguler nut and bolt. Sometimes you need to hold the bolt to keep it from spinning while tightening the nut... I think you have discovered this already, anyway.

P.S. Is this another crappy summer in Ontario or what. I am so disgusted with the weather over the last two summers...

Richard
Nope, I think this anti-seize that GreyWolf mentions in his posts is something else. Then again, I'm no mechanic and the people at "Canadian Tire" will have to point me to the right product.

And the weather, OMG let's keep that for a thread in the "Canadian" section, but wash-out might be apt! At least we are not melting under our gear though...

Rob in T.O.
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post #7 of 11 Old 07-29-2009, 08:53 AM
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I use the heavy duty nut and washer kit from www.holeshot.com - no problems.

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post #8 of 11 Old 07-29-2009, 09:59 AM
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Anti seize is a paste with a metallic content that coats the threads and prevents galling. It does have a lubrication effect so reduce the torque to 80% of spec to allow for it. 80% of 72.5bl-ft is 58lb-ft. The axle nuts are either castellated and cotter pinned or have locking inserts so Loctite is not needed or recommended.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
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post #9 of 11 Old 07-29-2009, 10:56 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greywolf View Post
... It does have a lubrication effect so reduce the torque to 80% of spec to allow for it...
Interesting, and though not directly related to this thread brings a question to mind. When tightening the oil drain bolt, should we be doing it at 80% of the suggested value since that bolt is always lubricated?

Just curious, as I was unaware that lubrication would affect torque settings. Learn something new every day!

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post #10 of 11 Old 07-29-2009, 11:19 AM
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A lubricated thread is assumed in the spec for the drain plug. 15lb-ft on the 650 and 16.5lb-ft on the 1000 are typical for dry 7-8mm bolts and the drain plug is larger.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
See https://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

Please vote in the poll on what Strom(s) you have at https://www.stromtrooper.com/informat...-you-have.html
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