Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Fort Lauderdale FL
It's pretty straightforward:
Loosen the axle nut. Some have a split-pin, some don't, either way, loosen it till there's a few threads open between the nut and the swingarm.
Back off the nuts that are threaded onto the bolts that "push" against the axle. Leave about 3/4' or so of clearance for adjustment. At this point I usually push the axle forward a bit so there's a distinct sag in the chain.
With the bike upright, and WITH A TYPICAL LOAD ON BOARD, turn the adjuster bolts until there is 1" of free play in the middle of the chain at the bottom. If you adjust the bike without a load, the chain will be too tight. If you can't get a load on the bike, you'll need to add 1/4' or so additional slack, depending on how much you weigh. Hold a ruler up to the chain, and move it up and down to see what the slack is. Look at the axle markers on each side of the swingarm; make sure the marks line up with the washer edges the same on both sides to get the rear wheel straight.
Once you have the slack set, snug, but don't tighten the axle bolt. Roll the bike backwards or forward a full turn of the wheel. Check the slack along the way, about every 1/4 turn. The reason you're doing this is because the tension on the chain can change as the wheel rotates. If you find a tight spot, stop and re-adjust the axle so you're back to 1" of slack.
Tighten the stop-nuts against the adjuster bolts so they won't loosen. Tighten the axle nut. The factory spec is 76 lbs; some of the guys go 50-60 lbs and use anti-sieze on the axle threads. If you don't have a torque wrench but you have an "educated" arm, you can get close enough. I managed to adjust bike chains for decades without a torque wrench, so it's not impossible.
Ride around the block and check it one more time. Remember, a over-tight chain can damage the bike a lot faster than a slightly loose one. Too much tension will ruin the oil seal at the primary sprocket, and wear out the chain and sprockets in a big hurry.
Go hakafugu yourself.