Hi, I would like some information on identifying the cause of my bike not turning on after I laid it down pulling into a graveled dirt traveling maybe 5 mph.
I drop it on the right side after which the bike would not turn...when turn the key to ‘on’position nothing on the instrument panel turns on. When I flip back to ‘off’ the arms of the two meters move in sync around the dial and back to original starting point. The lights however work (signal, brake, head, etc.).
I push started the bike, perhaps I’ll-advisedly, and the instrument panels turn on but in an unpredictable, malfunctioning way. The biked died in 2nd gear after 2 attempted push starts when I decided to leave it alone...
Any thoughts would be met with enormous gratitude.
I’m a noobie, and purchased the bike on Craigslist from a person who is very knowledgeable about repairs and such but has not experienced anything as I describe here. His intuition says it may be flooded and needs awhile for it to turn on, and should recover easily from a fall it took.
"when turn the key to ‘on’position nothing on the instrument panel turns on."
That means that there is an electrical problem. it does not mean that it is flooded. If you person who you bought it from is knowledgeable about motorcycle maintenance, he would know that you have an electrical problem.
You are going to have to get someone who can repair motorcycle electrical problems to work on your bike.
Hi, I would like some information on identifying the cause of my bike not turning on after I laid it down pulling into a graveled dirt traveling maybe 5 mph.
I drop it on the right side after which the bike would not turn...when turn the key to ‘on’position nothing on the instrument panel turns on. When I flip back to ‘off’ the arms of the two meters move in sync around the dial and back to original starting point. The lights however work (signal, brake, head, etc.).
I push started the bike, perhaps I’ll-advisedly, and the instrument panels turn on but in an unpredictable, malfunctioning way. The biked died in 2nd gear after 2 attempted push starts when I decided to leave it alone...
Any thoughts would be met with enormous gratitude.
I’m a noobie, and purchased the bike on Craigslist from a person who is very knowledgeable about repairs and such but has not experienced anything as I describe here. His intuition says it may be flooded and needs awhile for it to turn on, and should recover easily from a fall it e took.
You need to update your profile so we know what bike it is you own.(please report back)
These bikes have a tip over switch that cuts the motor when you lay them down but the should reset when the bike is upright again and you cycle the ignition on and off.
You should Google your bike and find that switch to ensure it is still in position.
Often during a crash like yours the wires to the clutch switch get disconnected or moved, do you get a CHECK warning up on the dash when the dash is working ?(please report back)
After a fall oil from the motor can fill the air filter box, that is sucked into the air intakes making the bike hard to start and smoky.
The battery cables on bikes often work loose over time you should ensure yours are clean and tight as that could be the reason for ignition not always working.
Depending on the bike you have and what is displayed on your dash we maybe able to point to other things to help you out.
also check the clutch cut off switch on the left handle bar, it likes to wiggle loose after a fall and the bike won't run without it in place (unless you disable it)
And do not forget something simple like the kill switch. You seem to say (not sure) but the bike did fire, and then stopped?? or not?? Please explain more fully for us, and go to Tools/User CP and update your bike and year, and your location.
The bike did not fire...I got it to fire by push starting it, although the instrument didn’t show any power to it. after a minute or so it cut out when I put it into 2nd gear...while the bike was firing, the instrument panel was on but acted erratically and I couldn’t make any sense out of it
I updated my profile, however, I couldn’t find inputs for bike...nevertheless, my bike is a 2007 DL650A with roughly 49k miles and I’m in the Hayward, CA which is part of the greater San Francisco/Bay Area.
...I got it home last night with a tow. None of the instruments on the panel turn on, nor the lights at this point. I’ll do some electrical checks per the Haynes Repair Manual and report back. please feel free to chime in...and many thanks to you all who have taken the time to offer your thoughts so far. I really appreciate it...onward
You have an intermittent electrical problem. Check the battery contacts (clean and tight) and both ends of the ground.
Tipover switch. They can go bad. Verify it is working.
Clutch switch connected and working?
Kickstand switch (most likely not the problem).
There is a main connector inside the left fairing. Just by chance check that connector to make sure its seated properly and that there are no burned contacts.
As already mentioned, check the kill switch and tip switch, maybe one of them is stuck in the 'aw crap' position.
It sounds in general like some multi-pin connector may have shaken loose or maybe the little securing tab broke, or maybe the connector got dirt inside it during the fall.
You need the factory wiring diagram, the good news is Suzuki are pretty good at those, they're easy to follow if you have a blown-up copy of it. Just follow the diagram end to end, starting at the battery, and follow each connector to make sure it's secure.
"When I did get the display it was blinking off and on like a bad analog tv signal..
It's not the tip over switch.
It's not the clutch switch.
It's not the headlight relay.
It's not oil in the air box.
You have an electrical problem. Check the instrument panel main connector. I don't know about the '07 but my '12 has two connectors on the left side tucked into the cowling, kind of outboard of the bottom triple tree. Check the battery connectors. You might even have a bad battery. I've seen batteries go bad from getting knocked around.
Update: 1. Checked the voltage of battery and got 12.3 volts. 2. Checked the main 30 amp fuse, that was ok. 3. Checked all the fuses and were ok ( I used a multimeter and checked the continuity of each fuse )
Next: I’ll check the earth ground connections and do earth ground checks on all the components
One thing of note:
While the ignition key was in the ‘off’ position, noticed the digital clock on the dash panel was on... And when I switched the key to the ‘on’ position, the digital clock faded away completely
On a side note: could a shorted or open alternator stator coil cause any of the symptoms mentioned so far in this thread?
A good battery voltage does not tell the complete story. Have the battery load tested. It may have enough power to display the clock but not enough amps to power the headlights and gauges when turned on. Another alternative to confirm a faulty battery, is to use another battery with jumper leads. This will help confirm battery condition. Take care when jumping the battery or you may damage the ECU.
Yup, battery. Is it an old fashioned lead acid battery with the little cap on each cell? If so, is there any sign of battery acid having leaked out through the vent?
12.3V is effectively dead. If there is no sign of acid leakage or it is an AGM battery, go buy a new battery.
With all that said, though, the battery was OK before the lay down because you had started it and were riding. So, unless it is an old fashioned lead acid battery I think something else is also going on. Have a good look for signs of electrical connections having been disturbed in the lay down.
This is a sealed battery. Has corrosion around the poles so it is a few years old. Best to take it to a parts store and have them load test to confirm that it is dead.
I would get an AGM type battery, ideally domestic, not Chinese, if you can find one.
I called around for a motorcycle battery, got a few quotes all ranging around 80 to 100 dollars, and got one at a local motorcycle dealership for just under 60 dollars and a charger for around 100.
According to Julian the sales guy, this is a fairly new battery out on the market, sealed and ready to go. The other option was a Yuasa OEM YTX12-BS that you have to feed into it viles of acid for a 80% initial charge. I think either one would have worked out fine. I went with the FirePower pictured because Julian the sales guy said the batteries were getting a lot of good feedback and it was 20 dollars less
*a tender, not charger now that I know the difference
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