I will prefix with saying that I know this has obviously been discussed before, but from the threads Iíve found, all are 7 years or older, so I wanted to make a more updated thread, as well as to discuss an alternative method which I did not see mentioned here in the posts Iíve found.
Another noob with a wrenchÖ As mentioned in the title, I accidentally over-tightened my oil pan bolt, thinking I was loosening it, to the point of completely destroying the crush washer, and (I think) the threads of the pan. This happened while I was winterizing my bike (the day of my flight, not to return until next summer), resulting in a leaking oil pan. Needing a quick, temporary fix, I managed to place a regular garden hose washer along with a tight fitting o-ring inside of the washer, both around my current bolt and tighten the bolt. This has managed to keep the oil in the crank case while my bike sits in storage for the winter. As I will not be returning to it until summer, I fortunately have some time to do the research and figure out the best method.
The first issue, is Iím not positive exactly what damage Iíve actually done. Iíve certainly shredded my crush washer, but as I was in a rush I didnít look to confirm whether or not I had stripped the bolt and/or the actual case threading. I believe the bolt was fine, and it seemed as though the case threading was stripped, as the bolt would fasten normally for a while, but after a certain point it would become easy to turn, and eventually would start Ďpopping upí threads. Similar to a cheap plastic threaded item, where you can tighten it to a point, then it Ďpopsí, and can re-tighten it to the same point where it again pops and never reaches a fully tightened state. This to me seems like the pan threads may be stripped, or is this maybe happening due to the absence of the recently mauled and removed crush washer?
First off, my bike is a 2015 Wee, Adventure series. From what Ive found, I believe the bolt is currently a M12 x 1.25 with a 14mm head (confirmation would be appreciated
Assuming my crank case is stripped, aside from replacing the entire crank case, I have seen 2 methods, the 2nd of which I havenít seen on here, so Im curious about your opinions.
Method #1: Re-tap the threading
As mentioned in other threads, basically drill out the current threads and re-tap with an up-sized thread (M14 x1.5), then re-plug with a fresh, larger bolt (also M14 x 1.5). For those interested, a very good guide with pictures and kit can be found HERE
. For those with experience in this, is there an alternative kit or approach to this, as this post is 7 years old?
Method #2: Self-drilling with an oversize plug
A method I have not seen on this forum (perhaps my own fault), is using an oversized plug to more easily and cheaply re-tap the threading, such as in
video. If I were to use this method, would I use a bolt of the same size, but oversized (M12 x 1.25 S.O like THIS
), or would I use a M14 x 1.5 S.O like THIS
Anyone who has any insight into any of the things Iíve mentioned above would be greatly appreciated! I hope in turn that some of the things mentioned here helps others as well
Also sorry in advance if I've left out any important info