(Another) Over-tightened Oil Pan Bolt- DL650 2015 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 13 Old 10-19-2019, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
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Question (Another) Over-tightened Oil Pan Bolt- DL650 2015

I will prefix with saying that I know this has obviously been discussed before, but from the threads Iíve found, all are 7 years or older, so I wanted to make a more updated thread, as well as to discuss an alternative method which I did not see mentioned here in the posts Iíve found.

Another noob with a wrenchÖ As mentioned in the title, I accidentally over-tightened my oil pan bolt, thinking I was loosening it, to the point of completely destroying the crush washer, and (I think) the threads of the pan. This happened while I was winterizing my bike (the day of my flight, not to return until next summer), resulting in a leaking oil pan. Needing a quick, temporary fix, I managed to place a regular garden hose washer along with a tight fitting o-ring inside of the washer, both around my current bolt and tighten the bolt. This has managed to keep the oil in the crank case while my bike sits in storage for the winter. As I will not be returning to it until summer, I fortunately have some time to do the research and figure out the best method.

The first issue, is Iím not positive exactly what damage Iíve actually done. Iíve certainly shredded my crush washer, but as I was in a rush I didnít look to confirm whether or not I had stripped the bolt and/or the actual case threading. I believe the bolt was fine, and it seemed as though the case threading was stripped, as the bolt would fasten normally for a while, but after a certain point it would become easy to turn, and eventually would start Ďpopping upí threads. Similar to a cheap plastic threaded item, where you can tighten it to a point, then it Ďpopsí, and can re-tighten it to the same point where it again pops and never reaches a fully tightened state. This to me seems like the pan threads may be stripped, or is this maybe happening due to the absence of the recently mauled and removed crush washer? (thoughts?)

First off, my bike is a 2015 Wee, Adventure series. From what Ive found, I believe the bolt is currently a M12 x 1.25 with a 14mm head (confirmation would be appreciated )

Assuming my crank case is stripped, aside from replacing the entire crank case, I have seen 2 methods, the 2nd of which I havenít seen on here, so Im curious about your opinions.
Method #1: Re-tap the threading
As mentioned in other threads, basically drill out the current threads and re-tap with an up-sized thread (M14 x1.5), then re-plug with a fresh, larger bolt (also M14 x 1.5). For those interested, a very good guide with pictures and kit can be found HERE . For those with experience in this, is there an alternative kit or approach to this, as this post is 7 years old?

Method #2: Self-drilling with an oversize plug
A method I have not seen on this forum (perhaps my own fault), is using an oversized plug to more easily and cheaply re-tap the threading, such as in
video. If I were to use this method, would I use a bolt of the same size, but oversized (M12 x 1.25 S.O like THIS), or would I use a M14 x 1.5 S.O like THIS?
Anyone who has any insight into any of the things Iíve mentioned above would be greatly appreciated! I hope in turn that some of the things mentioned here helps others as well Also sorry in advance if I've left out any important info
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post #2 of 13 Old 10-19-2019, 04:48 PM
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If you want a bulletproof, permanent, and professional repair done right the 1st time use a Time-Sert threaded insert.
Time-sert.com. You'll be able to use a NEW oem drain plug and new gasket(every time you change oil, the gaskets are inexpensive).
Ive seen Helicoils inserts come out when removing a drain plug, and helicoils are springs. The Time-sert is a solid piece that, using the tools in the kit, expand the insert to lock it into place both top and bottom.

I use Time-sert kits for stripped oil pans and spark plug threads.
Not meant as an insult, but until you get used to, and even after feeling the correct torque, I recommend using a torque wrench for tightening operations.

Last edited by MAZ4ME; 10-19-2019 at 04:52 PM.
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post #3 of 13 Old 10-19-2019, 10:54 PM
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Your oil pan is cast aluminum and they machined a flat spot before drilling and tapping the hole. If you enlarge the hole you might have a problem with a larger crush washer, I don't know. Worst case you will use the orignal crush washer size and enlarge the hole a bit. You left out Option 3: Helicoil or one of its variants. I'd lean toward one of those because driling and tapping would require that the tap enter the hole precisely at 90 deg to the flat, and that might be a bit difficult working under the bike.
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post #4 of 13 Old 10-20-2019, 06:38 AM
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Ratchet, good point about drilling and tapping the drain plug bore at 90 degrees. Ive seen many Helicoils installed at a slight angle and they would never stop seeping.
Which is one of the advantages of using the Time-Sert kit. One of the kit's tools is a drill guide sized specifically for the necessary drill. A 90-degree thread bore every time.
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post #5 of 13 Old 10-20-2019, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAZ4ME View Post
Which is one of the advantages of using the Time-Sert kit. One of the kit's tools is a drill guide sized specifically for the necessary drill. A 90-degree thread bore every time.
I've heard good things about the Time-Sert system on another motorcycle website. I'd suggest the OP look into this.
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post #6 of 13 Old 10-20-2019, 01:30 PM
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Time-Serts and Helicoils are great repair items for the practiced. The one time guy may not have the same results as one who knows what they are doing.
Good luck.
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post #7 of 13 Old 10-21-2019, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies! It seems the Time-Sert is pretty unanimous, and also appears so in other places online. If I've looked correctly, I would use a kit with the same dimensions as my current threading, so an M12 x 1.25, such as in THIS 1212C Time-Sert kit?

Quote:
Originally Posted by MAZ4ME View Post
You'll be able to use a NEW oem drain plug and new gasket
Do you have a particular resource for buying a new plug and gasket that you could possibly hand-off?
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post #8 of 13 Old 10-21-2019, 06:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAZ4ME View Post
If you want a bulletproof, permanent, and professional repair done right the 1st time use a Time-Sert threaded insert.
Time-sert.com. You'll be able to use a NEW oem drain plug and new gasket(every time you change oil, the gaskets are inexpensive).
Ive seen Helicoils inserts come out when removing a drain plug, and helicoils are springs. The Time-sert is a solid piece that, using the tools in the kit, expand the insert to lock it into place both top and bottom.

I use Time-sert kits for stripped oil pans and spark plug threads.
Not meant as an insult, but until you get used to, and even after feeling the correct torque, I recommend using a torque wrench for tightening operations.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
you have been told twice
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post #9 of 13 Old 10-23-2019, 09:58 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STCorndog View Post
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
you have been told twice
It's been mentioned twice which size time sert kit I need, and which supplier he buys oem drain plugs and gaskets from?
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post #10 of 13 Old 10-24-2019, 07:02 AM
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I mean no offense but maybe its best to left have a reputable shop to make the repair and do the maintenance from here on out. Not everyone is mechanically inclined and the is no shame in that.
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