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Low AC Voltage from Stator + Request for Stator & R/R Recommendations

4K views 34 replies 11 participants last post by  Charlie1982 
#1 ·
Hello everyone,

DL650AL1: Bought used over a year ago with 20k miles and currently at 30k.
I have narrowed down my charging system problem to low voltage from my stator (8, 8, 20 VAC @ 5k RPM) All other troubleshooting steps have been performed and passed except for taking the cover off and looking at/probing the stator.

I have read through a bunch of threads regarding replacement/aftermarket recommendations and have noticed that they have changed over time (specifically R/R). I am unable to find a 'sort by date' option on searches for the most recent information on this matter. If there is a relevant thread that i have missed, please inform me and accept my apology for yet another stator & R/R post.

Assuming that my problem is the stator, what is the latest consensus on a replacement? Furthermore, after doing some reading I have realized that there are better options for the R/R.

Lastly, what else could be causing this issue other than bad wiring? I swapped out the 8Ah battery that came with the bike to a 10Ah. Not sure if this could have been a contributing factor. I don't have many accessories aside from some LED aux lights and a switched 12v/USB for my trunk that is usually off unless required. Amp draw at ignition off is almost nothing.

Any help is appreciated, ride safe!
 
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#2 ·
I think the only contributing factor is time.

I also believe keeping your oil level on the high side can help keep things cool and possibly extend the life.

Reducing the load on early bikes can cause more heat, this will also shorten the life, everything you have done is OK.

If I were in your position I would just replace the stator and ride on.

Others may also recommend you change the reg to reduce the heat at the stator.
 
#5 ·
Thanks for replying, guys! I feel much better tackling this issue with fellow strommers. Your advice is invaluable.

... Reducing the load on early bikes can cause more heat, this will also shorten the life...
This seems counterintuitive (not saying you are wrong). I'm assuming you mean electrical load from accessories. That's interesting...

... The higher Ah battery rating won't/didn't hurt the system. I don't recommend changing the stator without changing the R/R because a bad R/R could have fried the stator or the bad stator could have damaged the R/R...

... What you do next is really dependent on your circumstances... Are you planning on keeping the bike for 1 year or 10+ years? Do you have a lot of money or doing this on a tight budget? Do you do your own work or are you going to pay someone to do the work? Do you need it done yesterday or whenever?
I should have worded it better but I changed the battery after the issue surfaced. It was running with an 8Ah battery since I got it and, after being parked for ~1 week with an accessory which drew ~1mA when not in use, I would have an almost dead battery. This could have been an early sign of the charging system failure and possibly the reason why the previous owner was selling the bike.

This is my primary and only mode of transportation at the moment and I'm in it for the long haul. I do all the work myself and I need to do it last week. My budget is flexible but I like to stick to the necessities.

Thank you!

At the very least your stator is fried, but given that the highest voltage you see is just 20VAC, I suspect you're also going to find that your magnets have come loose and have migrated on the rotor. Hopefully your magnets have not been damaged, and all you need is a JB Weld job. Plenty of threads about this on the forum.

As far as replacement stators go, there are aftermarket stators but they seem to fail even more often than OEM...

I would, at this time, not expect that the R/R is broken. You could replace it for piece of mind, but I don't think it's necessary.
Your advice, along with the others', has determined my next action. Time to order a stator and inspect the magnets. To the Strom-Cave!
 
#3 ·
From your VAC measurements its clear that your stator is fried and needs to be replaced. The higher Ah battery rating won't/didn't hurt the system. I don't recommend changing the stator without changing the R/R because a bad R/R could have fried the stator or the bad stator could have damaged the R/R, just not worth the risk. I also don't recommend non-Suzuki or rewound stators just bite the bullet and pay the fee but that's just me.

It would be difficult to explain all the technical details and pros and cons of your options. What you do next is really dependent on your circumstances. Do you want to spend a lot of money and never have to mess with this issue again? Are you planning on keeping the bike for 1 year or 10+ years? Do you have a lot of money or doing this on a tight budget? Do you do your own work or are you going to pay someone to do the work? Do you need it done yesterday or whenever?
 
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#4 ·
At the very least your stator is fried, but given that the highest voltage you see is just 20VAC, I suspect you're also going to find that your magnets have come loose and have migrated on the rotor. Hopefully your magnets have not been damaged, and all you need is a JB Weld job. Plenty of threads about this on the forum.

As far as replacement stators go, there are aftermarket stators but they seem to fail even more often than OEM. And Suzuki has had a recall for the stator for certain bike years so they know they did have a quality control issue. I have not heard any recent reports about failed new-OEM stators in the last year or so, so maybe the OEM stators are finally good enough. The other option is to rewind your stator yourself, or have it professionally rewound. Not many reports, but the few reports I've seen speak of good results.

I would, at this time, not expect that the R/R is broken. You could replace it for piece of mind, but I don't think it's necessary.
 
#7 ·
The stator produces the same amount of power no matter the load, the R/R takes what it needs and on the early bikes dumps any unused power back to the stator causing heat.

The later bikes or upgraded R/R will disperse the heat instead of dumping it back to the stator.

So reducing the load like fitting LED globes can cause more heat but adding a load like driving lights can reduce the amount of wasted power causing heat.

My 09 wee is still on the original stator and R/R, my loads are all original and I keep the oil level high but my good luck can't last forever.

A friend of mine recently changed to LED globes and a week or two later his stator failed, coincidence ? maybe ? he chose the replace the stator and upgrade the R/R.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Based on your reply, I'd throw in a used stator off ebay (~$50) plus a gasket for $10 and a voltmeter and you are back on two wheels. Watch the volts and if there is any funny business get a used R/R off ebay (~$50) and swap that out too.

FYI, the stators on the SV and possibly the SFV 650's are the same on some years. Cross check the part numbers for the older models to increase your chance of finding one on ebay because the seller might not know cross listings. I think the tell-tale for your Gen1 Wee is the generator wires are yellow and the CPS wires are white/green but that is from memory so you'll need to verify.

A new OEM stator is ~$280 so even if you got a bad one off ebay you could do it again and still be far ahead. Here is a link for how I dealt with a bad stator on my K7 Wee, I went with used and still running fine per the buyer at >100K miles.
 
#13 ·
... I'd throw in a used stator off ebay...
Sounds like a good plan, thank you!

The stator produces the same amount of power no matter the load...
Thanks for the explanation! My headlights are stock and I have been thinking of going LED but now I know what I need to do if I decide to take that route.

Sorry for the brief reply earlier but I was working and had limited free time. I've got a few hours to spare so I'm going stator hunting on ebay.

Again, big thanks to everyone for the info. It's exactly what I needed and I feel less stressed about the whole situation now that I know my options.

:yesnod::thumbup::bom_computer:
 
#10 ·
Suzuki fixed the stator build glue issue with the 32101-17G13. Bike Bandit says it fits the 2011 650. Remember to order a gasket and some sealant for the wire rubber feed thru. I like 1211 Three Bond Silicone.

The stock shunt type RR will do just fine. If you install led headlights, consider upgrading to the sh847 series RR to prevent shunting all that additional excess current to the stator.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
#12 ·
To be clear, the stator recall was for a defect in the application of glue that allowed the inlet wires to abrade and thus short out, i.e. a manufacturing defect.

On bikes with shunt R/R the stator insulation is still a wear item (like tires, chains, brake pads, etc) by design and typically fail around 60K miles +/- 20K. That is a probability, assuming normal distribution, so there can be failures or longevity outside that range.

Switching to a series R/R seems to solve the problem of insulation degradation drastically increasing stator life. The newest DL1000's have a series R/R but I am not sure about the latest Gen3 650's but all Gen1/Gen2 650's have an OEM shunt R/R.
 
#16 ·
Your listing is incorrect. Here is what I get;

Assemblies where 32101-17G10 or G12 is used

2008 V-Strom (DL650) - MAGNETO (MODEL K8/K9)
2008 V-Strom (DL650A) - MAGNETO (MODEL K8/K9)
2009 V-Strom (DL650) - MAGNETO (MODEL K8/K9)
2009 V-Strom (DL650A) - MAGNETO (MODEL K8/K9)
2011 V-Strom (DL650) - MAGNETO
2011 V-Strom (DL650A) - MAGNETO

My comment about using earlier SV/SFV stators is incorrect for the 2011 DL. There was a bump in the power output in 2008 which is why my 2007 DL could use stators from the SV line as well. On ebay you'd be looking for a stator from a 2008 to 2011 DL650 or DL650A if the seller doesn't list the actual part number.

Assemblies where 32101-17G11 or G13 is used

2012 V-Strom (DL650A) - MAGNETO
2013 DL650AL3 - MAGNETO
2014 DL650A - MAGNETO
2015 DL650A - MAGNETO
2015 DL650XA - MAGNETO
2016 DL650A - MAGNETO

The 2012 and later DL's have the Gladius motor from the SFV line. I don't think these stators will fit a Gen1 Wee which has a non-Gladius motor. The G13 designation is the part that includes the fix for the glue defect which was never a problem with the Gen1 bikes.
 
#20 ·
Now I'm thoroughly confused. I just did another search on bikebandit for my model (2011 DL650A) and it lists G13 for the stator while other sites list G10/12 as well as the 2007 (K8/K9) using the same part. I found one on ebay from a 2007 in which the seller indicates in the listing that it is compatible with 2007-2011 model years. No part number listed but I'm waiting to hear back from them.
 
#21 ·
BikeBandit is wrong. The G13 stator is for the Gladius motor which started with Gen2 in 2012, it won't fit your Gen1 motor. I used cheapcycleparts.com, suzukiofcarolstream.com and partzilla.com and rockymountainatvmc.com to cross check parts. Some sites don't even list the G13 stator yet but that is definitely for a gen2/gladius motor.

The 2007 and earlier DL stators (and many SV650 stators) will FIT your bike and work fine but for the Gen1 DL650 in 2008-2011 the generator output was bumped from 375W to 400W. So if you don't care about the extra 25W of power you could use the earlier stators. It probably won't matter unless you regularly use heated gear but I'd try to find the right part.

DL650 Through The Years
 
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#23 ·
I too have recently had charging issues and received a lot of advice from everybody. One thing no one seemed to mention is this: When testing stator, make sure all plugs are disconnected. If not all plugs are s=disconnected then there will be no change in the AC volts when revving the engine. Here is a link to the video where I found the information.... not sure if you needed this or not but for other people testing their stators and read this post, it might help them...

BAH! do not have enough posts to add a link... anyways do a search on youtube for:

#13 Common Errors When Testing Your Motorcycle Stator from Rick's Motorsport Electrics
 
#25 ·
Only purchase the 32101-17G13. It replaced the 32101-17G12 which replaced the 32101-17G11 and 32101-17G10. There are many G12s on Ebay, so buyer beware.
The G10/G12 are for Gen1 bikes, i.e. non-Gladius motor. The G12 replaced the G10 and is still in production and available from Suzuiki.

The G11/G13 are for Gen2 bikes, i.e. the Gladius motor. The G13 replaced the G11 and is still in production and available from Suzuki.

The G11 was the part that had the glue defect so if you are buying used for a Gen2 bike be sure it is a G13 stator or just buy new from Suzuki to be safe. The glue defect/recall never applied to the Gen1 bikes so as far as is known G10 or G12 stators are fine for a Gen1. The Gen2/Gladius motors use a different side case than the Gen1 motors and the stator mounts are different which is why they are not interchangeable. If the G13 fit the Gen1 bikes Suzuki would have dropped the production of the G12 stator and stocked just one part.

OP's bike is a 2011 Wee so he needs a G10 or G12 which is safe to buy on ebay (setting aside the used-purchase risk of getting a bad part).
 
#26 ·
Hi I had exactly the same problem with mine. I ended up getting the improved Suzuki stator (Mine is a 2011 model so missed the recall by a year)and fitting a Roadstercyle RR kit. They basically supply a wiring harness from the stator directly back to the battery. Probably overkill but this is my daily ride and I regularly do several day trips away and I couldn't afford to be stranded. Plus now I have a voltmeter fitted.
 
#27 ·
The G12 was called out as a replacement for the G11 for a time as an intermediate fix. I know it's confusing because the G12 is still called out by parts suppliers. The G12 does NOT have the upgraded insulation. Only the G13 does. The confusion was created because Suzuki didn't want to extend the recall to the 2008-2011 dl650s, but they should have. All 2008 thru 2016 can use the G13.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
#28 ·
The G12 was called out as a replacement for the G11 for a time as an intermediate fix. I know it's confusing because the G12 is still called out by parts suppliers. The G12 does NOT have the upgraded insulation. Only the G13 does. The confusion was created because Suzuki didn't want to extend the recall to the 2008-2011 dl650s, but they should have. All 2008 thru 2016 can use the G13.
Per GW, Cryoman is right and I was wrong. I thought the Gladius motor used a different stator than the Gen 1 2008 to 2011 bikes. Sorry for adding to the confusion.

FYI, there is no "upgraded insulation", the recall was to fix a defect in the application of glue to the phase wires as they entered/exited the stator coils that caused shorts. I am not sure about Suzuki parts-number funny business to avoid a Gen1 recall but the numbering does seem to be a bit odd. Per GW, Suzuki would increment the last digit of a part number when the contract or vendor changed even though it is the same part. For example, G10, G11, G12, G13 stators would all be the same part but from different vendors or perhaps delivered under different contracts from the same vendor.

Here is how I think it played out. Assuming 2011 bikes were all built with G10 stators from vendor "A" and they were fine. In the rebid for Gen2 bikes a cheaper vendor "B" wins the contract and is assigned the G11 parts designation. It is soon discovered that G11 stators have the glue defect and that contract is suspended. To fill the supply shortfall Suzuki extends or re-signs vendor "A" and assigns this as G12 consistent with past numbering. But remember, those are the expensive stators (compared to vendor "B") so Suzuki doesn't want to use them in Gen2 bikes because it would cutting into their profit margins. Vendor "B" gets their act together and Suzuki resumes there contract but assigns them to G13 to distinguish them from the defective G11 stators. Vendor "B" probably had to eat some or all of the cost of the recall for their error.
 
#29 ·
I am fascinated with the details of this situation and appreciate everyone who has contributed. Tomorrow I am visiting the first of 3 moto salvage yards to try my luck but I have one very important question: What are the identifiable characteristics between the 4 iterations? It seems to me that the codes printed on the stator, or any attachments, do not correspond to the actual part number. My stator has an "A" on one side and "1A24" on the other. Am I missing something obvious or is this a job for a cryptologist?
 
#30 ·
Why not just order a new stator, why put in a salvaged unit? If you go that route and get back up and running since bike is your main mode of transportation, then most certainly order a new one to have as back up.
 
#31 ·
Shipping time. If I know how to spot a G11, I can avoid it and have my wheels by tomorrow the latest. I guess I can take a chance and hope for a G10, G12, or G13 but it would help if there is a way to tell them apart.
 
#32 ·
Avoid larger motorcycle dismantler/resellers on ebay since they often don't know mileage, part number or VIN of the source of the part. Typically it is posted as a part from "a 2012 DL650 Stator, will fit other years" to minimize their liability and the year is all they know. I would focus on an individual who is parting out a bike (or smaller reseller) so you have some info/confidence on the miles, year, part number and possibly the VIN. Any used stator from a 2008-2011 bike is probably fine, though potentially but not necessarily higher mileage. Any stator from 2012-2014 is suspicious unless you can get a VIN and see if it had the recall done. By 2015/16 the odds of having a bad stator are probably nil and safe to buy. Also, it is important to note that Suzuki requires dealerships and individuals to return the bad stators (for repair?) in order to get recall payment so I don't think there are a lot of bad stators floating around on the used market.

Regarding buying new -vs- used: If you DIY then used is the way to go. Stators and R/Rs can be had for $50-$90 on ebay & etc. whereas a new stator from Suzuki is close to $300 and an R/R is $200 so there is a lot of cost savings here. I did the stator on my 2007 Wee and went with a used part and it worked fine. It was the first time I did a stator and it took me only about 1.5hrs and if I got a bad one I could probably do it in 1/2 that time. It is an easy swap and I could go through 3 or 4 stators (very unlikely) before equaling the cost of one new stator from Suzuki. If you can't DIY then go with new parts (caveat: that's no guarantee you won't get a defective one! Infant death is also an engineering term).
 
#35 ·
2006 DL1000 rider here.
I recently had to replace the stator and re-fasten the rotor magnets (not a problem on the 650, from what I understand), and I bought an Electrosport stator online, and sent the failed OEM stator to Custom Rewind in Alabama to be fixed. I plan to keep that one as a spare, in case the Electrosport one fails in the future. (There might be other shops that do this kind of repair, but C-R is the only one I knew about at the time.)
I also installed a Shindengen SH847 R/R kit from Roadstercycle while I was doing the job, hoping that would lower overall stator operating temperatures and prolong its life. Time will tell, I guess, as I just got the job done a month or two ago. YMMV.
 
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