Low AC Voltage from Stator + Request for Stator & R/R Recommendations - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 33 Old 09-24-2019, 06:13 PM Thread Starter
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Question Low AC Voltage from Stator + Request for Stator & R/R Recommendations

Hello everyone,

DL650AL1: Bought used over a year ago with 20k miles and currently at 30k.
I have narrowed down my charging system problem to low voltage from my stator (8, 8, 20 VAC @ 5k RPM) All other troubleshooting steps have been performed and passed except for taking the cover off and looking at/probing the stator.

I have read through a bunch of threads regarding replacement/aftermarket recommendations and have noticed that they have changed over time (specifically R/R). I am unable to find a 'sort by date' option on searches for the most recent information on this matter. If there is a relevant thread that i have missed, please inform me and accept my apology for yet another stator & R/R post.

Assuming that my problem is the stator, what is the latest consensus on a replacement? Furthermore, after doing some reading I have realized that there are better options for the R/R.

Lastly, what else could be causing this issue other than bad wiring? I swapped out the 8Ah battery that came with the bike to a 10Ah. Not sure if this could have been a contributing factor. I don't have many accessories aside from some LED aux lights and a switched 12v/USB for my trunk that is usually off unless required. Amp draw at ignition off is almost nothing.

Any help is appreciated, ride safe!

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post #2 of 33 Old 09-25-2019, 12:13 AM
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I think the only contributing factor is time.

I also believe keeping your oil level on the high side can help keep things cool and possibly extend the life.

Reducing the load on early bikes can cause more heat, this will also shorten the life, everything you have done is OK.

If I were in your position I would just replace the stator and ride on.

Others may also recommend you change the reg to reduce the heat at the stator.

Some of the 19 rides in my shed
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post #3 of 33 Old 09-25-2019, 02:51 AM
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From your VAC measurements its clear that your stator is fried and needs to be replaced. The higher Ah battery rating won't/didn't hurt the system. I don't recommend changing the stator without changing the R/R because a bad R/R could have fried the stator or the bad stator could have damaged the R/R, just not worth the risk. I also don't recommend non-Suzuki or rewound stators just bite the bullet and pay the fee but that's just me.

It would be difficult to explain all the technical details and pros and cons of your options. What you do next is really dependent on your circumstances. Do you want to spend a lot of money and never have to mess with this issue again? Are you planning on keeping the bike for 1 year or 10+ years? Do you have a lot of money or doing this on a tight budget? Do you do your own work or are you going to pay someone to do the work? Do you need it done yesterday or whenever?
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post #4 of 33 Old 09-25-2019, 09:55 AM
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At the very least your stator is fried, but given that the highest voltage you see is just 20VAC, I suspect you're also going to find that your magnets have come loose and have migrated on the rotor. Hopefully your magnets have not been damaged, and all you need is a JB Weld job. Plenty of threads about this on the forum.

As far as replacement stators go, there are aftermarket stators but they seem to fail even more often than OEM. And Suzuki has had a recall for the stator for certain bike years so they know they did have a quality control issue. I have not heard any recent reports about failed new-OEM stators in the last year or so, so maybe the OEM stators are finally good enough. The other option is to rewind your stator yourself, or have it professionally rewound. Not many reports, but the few reports I've seen speak of good results.

I would, at this time, not expect that the R/R is broken. You could replace it for piece of mind, but I don't think it's necessary.
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post #5 of 33 Old 09-25-2019, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
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Thumbs up

Thanks for replying, guys! I feel much better tackling this issue with fellow strommers. Your advice is invaluable.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rolex View Post
... Reducing the load on early bikes can cause more heat, this will also shorten the life...
This seems counterintuitive (not saying you are wrong). I'm assuming you mean electrical load from accessories. That's interesting...

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmfdmf View Post
... The higher Ah battery rating won't/didn't hurt the system. I don't recommend changing the stator without changing the R/R because a bad R/R could have fried the stator or the bad stator could have damaged the R/R...

... What you do next is really dependent on your circumstances... Are you planning on keeping the bike for 1 year or 10+ years? Do you have a lot of money or doing this on a tight budget? Do you do your own work or are you going to pay someone to do the work? Do you need it done yesterday or whenever?
I should have worded it better but I changed the battery after the issue surfaced. It was running with an 8Ah battery since I got it and, after being parked for ~1 week with an accessory which drew ~1mA when not in use, I would have an almost dead battery. This could have been an early sign of the charging system failure and possibly the reason why the previous owner was selling the bike.

This is my primary and only mode of transportation at the moment and I'm in it for the long haul. I do all the work myself and I need to do it last week. My budget is flexible but I like to stick to the necessities.

Quote:
Originally Posted by W1bowo View Post
+1
Thank you!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BackPacker View Post
At the very least your stator is fried, but given that the highest voltage you see is just 20VAC, I suspect you're also going to find that your magnets have come loose and have migrated on the rotor. Hopefully your magnets have not been damaged, and all you need is a JB Weld job. Plenty of threads about this on the forum.

As far as replacement stators go, there are aftermarket stators but they seem to fail even more often than OEM...

I would, at this time, not expect that the R/R is broken. You could replace it for piece of mind, but I don't think it's necessary.
Your advice, along with the others', has determined my next action. Time to order a stator and inspect the magnets. To the Strom-Cave!

Four wheels move the body. Two wheels move the soul.

"... and one wheel moves the circus bear." ~ KC
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post #6 of 33 Old 09-25-2019, 04:56 PM
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What year is your 650, as you more than likely have encapsulated magnets?

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post #7 of 33 Old 09-25-2019, 08:46 PM
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The stator produces the same amount of power no matter the load, the R/R takes what it needs and on the early bikes dumps any unused power back to the stator causing heat.

The later bikes or upgraded R/R will disperse the heat instead of dumping it back to the stator.

So reducing the load like fitting LED globes can cause more heat but adding a load like driving lights can reduce the amount of wasted power causing heat.

My 09 wee is still on the original stator and R/R, my loads are all original and I keep the oil level high but my good luck can't last forever.

A friend of mine recently changed to LED globes and a week or two later his stator failed, coincidence ? maybe ? he chose the replace the stator and upgrade the R/R.

Some of the 19 rides in my shed
2014 V2, Snoopy
2009 Wee, Pumbaa the pig
WR450F, The Blue Postie Bike
YZ250N smoker with rego, Stinky.
Yamaha MT09 (FZ09), The Scud missile.
Club Lead not Club Med.
He with the most toys wins.
Out of my depth in a puddle.
Live life on the edge you will see more that way.
Ridding a motorcycle keeps things in balance.
At the end of each trail and at the end of each day history is made.
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post #8 of 33 Old 09-25-2019, 09:11 PM Thread Starter
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2011 and yes, encapsulated magnets.
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post #9 of 33 Old 09-25-2019, 10:30 PM
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Based on your reply, I'd throw in a used stator off ebay (~$50) plus a gasket for $10 and a voltmeter and you are back on two wheels. Watch the volts and if there is any funny business get a used R/R off ebay (~$50) and swap that out too.

FYI, the stators on the SV and possibly the SFV 650's are the same on some years. Cross check the part numbers for the older models to increase your chance of finding one on ebay because the seller might not know cross listings. I think the tell-tale for your Gen1 Wee is the generator wires are yellow and the CPS wires are white/green but that is from memory so you'll need to verify.

A new OEM stator is ~$280 so even if you got a bad one off ebay you could do it again and still be far ahead. Here is a link for how I dealt with a bad stator on my K7 Wee, I went with used and still running fine per the buyer at >100K miles.

Pink Floyd: And did you exchange a walk-on part in the war for a lead role in a cage?
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Current: 2014 V-Strom DL650 ABS Red
Next Up: ?
Past: Suzuki: DL650AK7, GS400; Honda: CB125, Express 49cc

Last edited by dmfdmf; 09-25-2019 at 11:14 PM.
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post #10 of 33 Old 09-25-2019, 11:23 PM
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Suzuki fixed the stator build glue issue with the 32101-17G13. Bike Bandit says it fits the 2011 650. Remember to order a gasket and some sealant for the wire rubber feed thru. I like 1211 Three Bond Silicone.

The stock shunt type RR will do just fine. If you install led headlights, consider upgrading to the sh847 series RR to prevent shunting all that additional excess current to the stator.

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