Intermittent headlights (with solution)
Thought I would post something here in regards to the work I just did on my 09 wee, perhaps helping a fellow rider along the way.
The issue was intermittent headlights, both high and low beam. It typically showed upon starting the bike, then the headlights would magically turn on and that was that. I decided to investigate. I apologize for the lack of pics, I am simply not that patient.
Note the setup:
- Using Eastern Beaver H4 relay kit
- Using LED bulbs
Also, the starter switch portion that shuts the headlights was taken out of circuit because the switch mechanically had failed months ago. I did that by shorting the YEL/WH to the OR/RED inside the harness. This isn't a bigh issue as the relay has very little load passing through those wires.
Part of the symptoms were that I could not hear the relays click, so I assumed current wasn't making it to the white and yellow wires on the EB harness. I check conductivity: all tests are good.
I tested voltage at OR/RED wire, shows 12.65 VDC. NOTE: all voltages listed here are with engine NOT running. I shorted the OR/RED wire to the relay trigger wire (yellow) an the relay clicked. That wire is immediately post ignition switch, and pre-fuse, also pre HI/LO beam switch.
I shorted the post fuses signal to the relay: no click. Voltage there read 11.5 VDC...Interesting. I checked for continuity of the YEL/WH wire that leaves the right-hand harness to the left-hand harness. No continuity, despite it reading 11.5 volts as well.
In tracing the YEL/WH wire, for right to left, It goes under the airbox to a black multi-pin, then to a yellow multi-pin on the left. What I noticed as odd is mild burn marks on the yellow plastic of that connector, right at the pin that connects the YEL/WH wire to the left-hand harness. My suspicion is that in years past, that pin started to arc, causing corrosion and low conductivity. I could also see some brown marks on the pin itself. So while I could read voltages at the fuses and at the HI/LO beam switch, there simply was not enough current to make the relay trigger.
I ended up splicing a pigtail from one side of the yellow connector to the other, on the YEL/WH wire: boom! headlights are back.
Now I am going to have to test this for a while. One concern is that if any arcing marks were visible on the yellow connectors, those would be hard to see on the black connector, so I could still have issues down the line.
Hope this is helpful to someone.