I have a feeling there are lots of Stroms (and probably other bikes) out there with tighter-than-spec valves.
When I asked, here, in a different thread, exactly how to determine, by sense of touch ("feel"), which feeler gage blade was the correct one, I was surprised by the relative silence. I finally resorted to YouTube, mostly (got a comment or two here, and I appreciate those), and "learned" that the correct "feel" is like that of pulling a sheet of paper from between two glossy magazines - or from pulling a piece of common tape from a piece of flat glass. That's a very minor amount of applied force.
If people simply keep pushing ever-thicker feeler gage blades into the gap, until they can't force in a wider one, then I think that might be wrong. I saw YouTube videos of valve springs being easily compressed by a person's fingers (with apparently little pressure being applied). So - this is what makes me suspect there are a lot of too-tight valves out there. Heck, I'd taken my Wee to a dealer, for the valve safety recall, and they told me, when I asked about the valves "they're OK". When I checked them myself 10K miles later, applying the "feel" requirement stated above, they clearly were not "OK".
But, until the gaps go to zero (or beyond), I'm not sure that really hurts anything. I guess that's how some people can report 60, 70, 80+K miles, with no valve checks/adjusts, with good-running bikes. The gaps on my '12 Wee had to be getting pretty small (well out of tolerance), yet the bike started and ran fine.
The intakes seem to move very little, and they (should) begin with at least a 0.004-inch factory gap.
The exhausts move much faster, in my very limited experience, but they (should) begin with at least a 0.008-inch factory gap.
Maybe I'm wrong, but we (or at least I) checked the clearances on my Wee with the cam lobes "up" - away from the bucket. So what I presume is the "circular" part of the cam (the non-lobed portion) is down - toward the top of the bucket. It seems to me that as long at there IS a measurable gap, in that condition, then no damage is being done. It's only when there's enough wear in the valve seat to permit the valve to "rise" to the point where there's no gap, and where even the "circular" part of the cam is always pressing against the bucket, no matter what position the cam's in
, that damage begins to be done.
Am I thinking about this correctly? I'd really like to be corrected if I'm thinking about this wrong.
By the way, I'm just rambling. Not saying what's right or wrong. I don't wrench for a living, so please do what you think is right.