First valve adj. on 2018 1000 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 22 Old 03-05-2019, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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First valve adj. on 2018 1000

Bought last May and it now is just shy of 16K.
Found some out and some close, so glad I did it now.
Front EX .010 &.008 in.
Front IN .005 &.004
Rear IN .003 & .004
Rear EX .007 & .009
All now in mid to upper end. The front was easy to access, but the rear was tight and difficult. The valve cover has barely enough room to remove it(The brake unit in front of the battery has steel lines over it) and the timing marks are somewhat hidden(I used a mirror and flashlight). Other than not having to deal with cam chains I think the 650 is easier.
Thought this might be helpful to those thinking of putting it off. "Probably" would have gone longer without harm, but why wait. Now I feel comfortable to go 30K before another check.
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post #2 of 22 Old 03-05-2019, 05:05 PM
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Garage
Sweet now come do mine please.
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post #3 of 22 Old 03-05-2019, 05:15 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by steve85248 View Post
Sweet now come do mine please.
At least the 14-16 doesn't have the brake unit in the way.
I did it for 30-40 Troopers before I moved from the Seattle area.

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post #4 of 22 Old 03-06-2019, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nvr2old View Post
Bought last May and it now is just shy of 16K. Found some out and some close, so glad I did it now.

Front EX .010 &.008 in.
Front IN .005 &.004
Rear IN .003 & .004
Rear EX .007 & .009

...
What is the allowed range, exhausts and intakes, for that (1000) bike?

Thanks.


2007 Wee. Blue. Bought at 5K miles. Sold at 32K+ miles. Gone but not forgotten.

2012 Wee2 Adventure. Black. Bought at 26K miles. Now 43K+. Love it!
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post #5 of 22 Old 03-06-2019, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by HokiesRWee View Post
What is the allowed range, exhausts and intakes, for that (1000) bike?

Thanks.

Same as the 650, .004-.008 for the intakes and .008-.012 for exhausts
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post #6 of 22 Old 03-06-2019, 12:54 PM
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It's good you posted the results...kinda throws out that whole "never check-em and their fine" theory some tend to go by here.
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post #7 of 22 Old 03-06-2019, 04:46 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Motor7 View Post
It's good you posted the results...kinda throws out that whole "never check-em and their fine" theory some tend to go by here.
That was part of my reasoning. Having adjusted 30-40 Stroms over the years, I know the odds.

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post #8 of 22 Old 03-07-2019, 09:32 AM
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I have a feeling there are lots of Stroms (and probably other bikes) out there with tighter-than-spec valves.

When I asked, here, in a different thread, exactly how to determine, by sense of touch ("feel"), which feeler gage blade was the correct one, I was surprised by the relative silence. I finally resorted to YouTube, mostly (got a comment or two here, and I appreciate those), and "learned" that the correct "feel" is like that of pulling a sheet of paper from between two glossy magazines - or from pulling a piece of common tape from a piece of flat glass. That's a very minor amount of applied force.

If people simply keep pushing ever-thicker feeler gage blades into the gap, until they can't force in a wider one, then I think that might be wrong. I saw YouTube videos of valve springs being easily compressed by a person's fingers (with apparently little pressure being applied). So - this is what makes me suspect there are a lot of too-tight valves out there. Heck, I'd taken my Wee to a dealer, for the valve safety recall, and they told me, when I asked about the valves "they're OK". When I checked them myself 10K miles later, applying the "feel" requirement stated above, they clearly were not "OK".

But, until the gaps go to zero (or beyond), I'm not sure that really hurts anything. I guess that's how some people can report 60, 70, 80+K miles, with no valve checks/adjusts, with good-running bikes. The gaps on my '12 Wee had to be getting pretty small (well out of tolerance), yet the bike started and ran fine.

The intakes seem to move very little, and they (should) begin with at least a 0.004-inch factory gap.

The exhausts move much faster, in my very limited experience, but they (should) begin with at least a 0.008-inch factory gap.

Maybe I'm wrong, but we (or at least I) checked the clearances on my Wee with the cam lobes "up" - away from the bucket. So what I presume is the "circular" part of the cam (the non-lobed portion) is down - toward the top of the bucket. It seems to me that as long at there IS a measurable gap, in that condition, then no damage is being done. It's only when there's enough wear in the valve seat to permit the valve to "rise" to the point where there's no gap, and where even the "circular" part of the cam is always pressing against the bucket, no matter what position the cam's in, that damage begins to be done.

Am I thinking about this correctly? I'd really like to be corrected if I'm thinking about this wrong.

By the way, I'm just rambling. Not saying what's right or wrong. I don't wrench for a living, so please do what you think is right.


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post #9 of 22 Old 03-07-2019, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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I believe the flaw in your theory is this. The check is done with a cold engine so as it heats up the gap tightens. The smallest gap spec still allows some at running temp. Lets assume a valve setting is below minimum. How much below min. can you go before there is no gap at highway speeds. Can't say for sure, but when that happens the damage begins.
This is the reason I've always preached to get the first CK done. The initial break-in is where the most wear occurs.
Your correct on the feel of the gauge. As GW used to say, it go or no go and needn't be forced.
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post #10 of 22 Old 03-07-2019, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motor7 View Post
It's good you posted the results...kinda throws out that whole "never check-em and their fine" theory some tend to go by here.
Here is my take. And to be clear, I stretch this chore out as long as possible.

In the example from the OP, 8 valves, 2 were out of spec by .001. Some were at minimums. Would this bike have been damaged by doing no adjustment, extremely doubtful. Would I have adjusted them, yes because I had 2 out. If I had none out, but several minimums, I would have left them alone.

When I was working on performance engines, we would purposefully set valves at minimums to get the extra amount of free valve lift out of a given cam.

I have done my Strom as well as many other bikes. On my Strom I had some minimums I left alone at the first check, none out. The clearances opened enough to be above minimums by the next check and I quit checking that bike. The bike is over 100,000 miles now and running fine.

Several things are happening on a new engine. Valve seats recede and head bolts relax...clearance reduces. Later you get some cam lobe and bucket surface wear and clearance increases.

Do I check valves at the first recommended interval....usually. Do I do it at the second recommended interval....depends on what I found at check 1.

There is more than 1 theory. There are many bikes screwed up when checking valves. I have yet to come across a bike lately that burned a valve seat from tight valves. You are more likely to have a cam lobe wear down and increase clearance (you will hear) than to burn a valve.

And lastly, I typically find more valves that are too tight not from checking but when a customer/friend brings a bike to me that is hard to start when hot and pops on decel (which cannot be tuned out with fueling).

Just like changing oil to soon, checking valves more than needed will do no harm (assuming the mechanic does no harm). I am just as much a slacker with oil changes too, but I use the best oil and check it with my fingers occasionally.
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